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Old 04-12-2014, 05:39 PM   #11
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There's a growing number of RVs using very high R-values and questionable insulation-enhancing construction and features.
The big numbers for our trailer are for the radiant barrier. The radiant barrier installation techniques make it useless. In any case, it is for "radiant" (think infrared) energy, and not conduction like the foam/fiberglass. R-value equivalency in this manner is poor. An air leak results in convection energy loss.
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:10 PM   #12
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My 344QB is in the shop having the back exterior panel replaced. I stopped by to check on the progress and saw what the inside of the wall looked like because the panel was still off. The insulation is patchy at best. Looks like the manufacturer just put scrap pieces of insulation in there. Most ofthe pieces don't even fill up the stud spaces and the insulation was only about an inch thick batting.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:22 PM   #13
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My 344QB is in the shop having the back exterior panel replaced. I stopped by to check on the progress and saw what the inside of the wall looked like because the panel was still off. The insulation is patchy at best. Looks like the manufacturer just put scrap pieces of insulation in there. Most ofthe pieces don't even fill up the stud spaces and the insulation was only about an inch thick batting.
Did you request them to add some additional insulation to the wall while it was being reassembled? Pack that puppy full while it is easy to get at.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:08 PM   #14
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I asked for them to fill in the gaps. They said they'll check to see if they have any insulation around.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:47 PM   #15
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It's all in the research. Find a unit that has vacuum bonded walls including the slide and rear. Lots of rear trailer walls aren't bonded but just sandwiched with a large window or whatever else is back there. After you get them home, grab a can of spray foam and start sealing all the air gaps.
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:48 AM   #16
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I've been in talks with our suppliers about other ideas for truly increasing R-values in RVs. I'm still very interested in customers' thoughts on this topic -- any input shared here will surely be put to good use!
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:19 PM   #17
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Using the new Astro-Foil and then overstating the R values it gives is not right. All makes do it. By just putting Astro-Foil in they rate the walls higher than they really are. How does a R-14 wall go to R 38 by adding Astro-Foil? Astro-Foils site only gives it an R-5 value and also states you need an air gap for it to work. All walls, floors and ceilings are made without air gaps. The roof could but they're not built like a house with an attic. Even doubling the foil still only gives it an R-5 value. Smoke and mirrors. IMO high R values are nice but it's all the air leaks that de-rate the whole trailer. More care needs to be made in how they do cut outs and don't patch them up. Everything looks good just standing in the trailer and looking around. But start doing some digging around behind doors and drawers or pulling off some access covers and you really see how it's built. It a shame on the RV industry that they get away with this. R-ll walls, R-34 roof and R 34 floors are all great but when you have to go around and patch the air leaks then what's the point of the numbers.

JMHO but there should be an industry wide test for all makes so the buying public doesn't get duped into thinking they have a 4 season trailer when they don't. I think most would be glad to pay the extra $$ for a certification test showing the true R values. The RV industry gets away with too much period.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:22 PM   #18
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I would like to see better insulation if the R values used were standardized by a standards body so I could make equal comparisons. I would probably use them in making a decision but it would not be one of the most important factors. Unless there was a glaring difference between models it would be more of a tie breaker.

I would like to see more efficiency in the living envelope. With all of the gaps into uninsulated areas and open vents above various appliances air infiltration is the main problem we have with maintaining inside temperature. I would also like to see some type of energy reflecting material on the exterior walls to reflect some of the summer sun's energy away from the trailer (this might be getting back to increasing R value). It seems to me I would get more bang for the buck by having better control over air infiltration. After all the most efficient wall in the world is useless if the exterior air gets behind it. If I had some way to evaluate a trailers tightness it would definitely rank higher than r value in the decision process.
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Old 09-07-2014, 12:23 PM   #19
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Need insulation between the frame rails Under floor. The heated and barely enclosed underbelly are a joke. We froze in sub freezing temperatures.
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Old 09-07-2014, 01:50 PM   #20
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I'm interested in feedback on the importance of R-values on RVs…

How much did and/or does the stated R-value influence your buying decision when you purchased your current camper? What are the R-values of your walls / floor / roof / etc.? What is your expectation of any RV manufacturer or brand in terms of R-values or insulation properties?

Do you consider your RV to be 4 season or all weather? Why?

Did you also research or purchase dual pane or "thermopane" windows? Opinions on these windows?

What about 12V heated tank warmers or any other "4 season" or "polar package" add ons?

Does your current RV or camper you're interested in have radiant barrier or "astro foil" insulation? What is the stated R-value of that insulation?

Thank you in advance for your responses! Very interested to hear what people here have to say!
Chris,
just wondering if you got my private message, haven't heard back from you.

Randy Watts
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4 season, all season, arctic, astrofoil, block foam, construction, dense foam, dual pane, enclosed underbelly, four season, insulation, polar, polar package, r-value, radiant, radiant barrier, radiant heat, radiant shield, thermopane, furnace

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