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Old 12-09-2014, 04:47 PM   #31
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Our RV was sold as a "Four Season" RV.
That had to be from the dealer, because FR doesn't advertise any of their RV's as "Four Season", except their Ice Fishing trailers.
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:14 PM   #32
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bikendan, You are correct in that my dealer sold me it as a 4-season rv. The initial thread from the Jaycio Rep. also stated a 4-season TT. So if FR doesn't sell one why are dealer/reps talking about it?
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:19 PM   #33
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According to greenbuildingadvisor.com, single glazing has an R-value of about 1, clear double glazing is about R-2, and clear triple about R-3. Numbers weren't listed for windows with inert gas and/or low-e. Do double-glazed windows in RVs use either of those? If not, the increase from R-1 to R-2 might not be worth the increased cost except from the condensation standpoint.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:21 PM   #34
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I thought I'd reply since a manufacturer rep is in the thread.
Spray in insulation should be a standard. Board or batt insulation are energy sieves.

Air exchange in each unit for efficiency and humidity control. They only retail for $200 and reduce the need for A/C and venting out warm air in the cold. Put it on a separate circuit so unit's sitting for awhile can plug just that in to help prevent condensation in unattended units run on a timer.

Velcro around the outside of windows and radiant barrier fitted covers for storage or really sunny weather. For example there may be a not so great view from some windows that could be left covered even while in use at a site.

And like the earlier posters stated, radiant barrier is useless without an air gap. A 2in wall with 1 1/2 spray in and radiant barrier would be quite effective.

We lined just the walls of our 5000 sqft shop with barrier and even without doing the roof on -40 days it went from 3 heaters running nearly constantly to 1 running intermittently.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:32 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by bfhammer View Post
I thought I'd reply since a manufacturer rep is in the thread.
Spray in insulation should be a standard. Board or batt insulation are energy sieves.

Air exchange in each unit for efficiency and humidity control. They only retail for $200 and reduce the need for A/C and venting out warm air in the cold. Put it on a separate circuit so unit's sitting for awhile can plug just that in to help prevent condensation in unattended units run on a timer.

Velcro around the outside of windows and radiant barrier fitted covers for storage or really sunny weather. For example there may be a not so great view from some windows that could be left covered even while in use at a site.

And like the earlier posters stated, radiant barrier is useless without an air gap. A 2in wall with 1 1/2 spray in and radiant barrier would be quite effective.

We lined just the walls of our 5000 sqft shop with barrier and even without doing the roof on -40 days it went from 3 heaters running nearly constantly to 1 running intermittently.
For what it's worth, being a 2 year old thread......best of my knowledge, wildcat Chris is no longer with forest river.

Most "fiberglass" sided campers have foam sandwiched in the middle....basically the same as spray foam.

I agree spray foam is awsome, my house is spray foamed and has almost half the energy cost of a normal house its size or smaller. The kicker is, it cost me almost twice as much to insulate with it foam as normal insulation. I've recovered my cost back in the first 2 years, but this probably wouldnt be as feasible on an rv and would make service a real nightmare when you have plumbing or other issues underneath.
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