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Old 05-09-2012, 07:24 PM   #1
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Main door lock

Hi!

I'm new to the forum, and did attempt searching for information on my problem, but didn't come across anything. I have a 2011 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, and I'm having problems with the main lock on the door. From time to time, it gets stuck... and I can't for the life of me figure out what is causing it to stick. It sticks in the locked position and just won't turn to unlock. Finally it will give way after I've beat on the door a few times and tried to turn it a million times... all of a sudden it will just give way. I sprayed some WD40 on the lock itself yesterday... no luck today when I still had a hard time getting into the RV.

Has anyone else had a similar problem?

Thanks in advance!!!
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:46 PM   #2
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I did have your problem and tracked mine down to the "too strong" pressure spring door holder. It was twisting the door when closed such that the deadbolt would jam in the opening and the hinges were being bent.

I was totally blown off by my dealer (who said it needed an adjustment and proceeded to bill me an hour for hammering on the hinge with a 2x4 ).

Eventually, the screws pulled out (I found one on my step) and I repaired it with through bolts on the door and longer, larger screws on the wall. This made the deadbolt unusable since I could no longer lift the door to open it. I finally fixed it by completely removing the piston; installing a metal door hold open fixture; and the problem has gone away.
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:53 PM   #3
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I have not had your problem with our 2011 Rockwood ETC 181 since our lock assembly / deadbolt is covered with grease from the factory. WD40 is a lite spray that is not "heavy" enough to stay put.
Check your door & frame to make sure it is "square" & mates evenly. One more idea is that since your unit is new the door gasket could be pushing the assmbly. I have had to push on the door after temp changes to make it easier to open.
Good Luck,
Bob
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
... I finally fixed it by completely removing the piston; installing a metal door hold open fixture; and the problem has gone away.
What was/is the pressure on your door strut? Mine is 13# and by relocating the anchor on the side and on the door both closer to the hinge all the problems with loose anchor screws and not opening but 90 degrees were solved.

BTW, by not doing your fix with the latch, DW suggested? last weekend that I might want to do something about the door which is what prompted me to make some alterations.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:12 PM   #5
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Thanks for the feedback! I have checked the door alignment, and all seems to align properly. I do not see any signs of the door rubbing against the frame and nothing looks crooked. As best as I can tell, the latch and the deadbolt both line up perfectly with the opening. The opening also shows no sign of anything catching.

The WD40 was just kind of a "might as well shoot some on there"... when the lock turns, it turns smoothly. I did mess around with it a little more, locking and unlocking the deadbolt, and I can almost replicate the problem when the door is open. I just wasn't able to make it catch as severely as it did when it was shut. It almost felt like the key would catch wrong and not turn. However, I have had the same problem trying to open the deadbolt from the inside. No key involved. Had to jump out the window the other day, mess with it from outside, while someone else messed with it from the inside, and finally it turned. I agree that it seems it would be caused by misalignment of the door, or the lock opening... but those things appear to be fine.

Thanks again for the feedback... any other comments/experiences welcome!

Tracy
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:14 PM   #6
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What was/is the pressure on your door strut? Mine is 13# and by relocating the anchor on the side and on the door both closer to the hinge all the problems with loose anchor screws and not opening but 90 degrees were solved.
My dealer took it when I asked them to get a lower pressure piston for me. They said they needed the old one to match it to a lower pressure one. Many un-returned phone calls later; I ripped the mounts out.

Far as I know they still have my piston.
Be "darned" if I am ever calling them back.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:16 PM   #7
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Suggest you remove the 3 screws holding the latch in the door and looking at the mechanism for signs of rubbing. I might be that the screws are too tight and binding the latch.
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:11 PM   #8
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I removed the inside plate of the latch (I had 4 screws). I studied the mechanism, but couldn't see anything that jumped out at me as a sign of rubbing. There were what I believe to be foam-core particles kind of "mashed" into the area around the corner where the deadbolt mechanism is. Maybe that corner was tighter as you suggested. Not sure... but I did make sure not to over-tighten the screws when I put it back together. I guess time will tell!!

Thank you for the input! Hope the loosened screw does the trick!!
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:00 PM   #9
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I have fought the same problem intermittently on my 32RK Sterling since delivery. Last fall, the deadbolt locked us out in a campground in Kansas. We hired a local locksmith who finally gave up and drilled it out. We just had the latch assm replaced under warranty, and they worked very hard to widen the hole in the strikeplate and make sure it did not have any rough spots. Hopefully, we will not have probs again, but too soon to tell.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:57 PM   #10
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Had the same problem with my back door on the 8285WS

I had the same problem, at night time or cool weather the dead bolt would work fine. But let the sun get to it, heat it up a little, it would not unlock from the outside with the key. It was replaced under warranty, replacement lock works fine.
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