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Old 07-26-2014, 11:36 AM   #1
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Q: Blowing front jack motor fuse

I'm big on doing searches on the forum for answers to my questions (my tag line on another forum is "'Search' is your friend") but I've had no luck searching for a solution to this problem.

This 295RSX is my first 5th wheel and I haven't gained enough experience to eyeball a sloped campsite and to estimate how far down I should place my jack extensions to level the trailer without stalling the jack motor.

When I retract the legs to max and stall the motor, the system has been blowing the 30 amp inline jack motor fuse. The 1st time it happened, I noticed the positive battery terminal nut was only hand tight so I tightened it and went camping. To hitch up, I reversed the jack, of course, and had no issue.

At my current campsite which slopes down from front of trailer to back, I obviously dropped my extensions one hole two far and, to level the trailer, ended up retracting the jacks to max and blew another fuse.

OK, so I detect that the ring terminal on the line off the positive battery terminal is not crimped well and the connection is kinda wobbly (technical terms). Crimped said connection again and ensured there was no wobble. Retest ==> small flash of light from somewhere, small click sound of fuse blowing, all dead again.

Recrimped ring terminal on negative cable to jack but I see no need to sacrifice another 30 amp fuse since I'm only 0.5 hairs off level and since I'm happy to wait here in the shade of my awning until one of you experts writes the solution to my problem.

Please don't tell me my water heater valves were left in the bypass position or that there may be a kink in the gravity fill tube of my FW tank or that my anode rod might have burned out or .... I've read all of that and still need help!

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:40 AM   #2
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Go to the auto store and buy a 30a auto reset and be done with it.
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Old 07-26-2014, 12:12 PM   #3
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Go to the auto store and buy a 30a auto reset and be done with it.
Thanks, OC.
I'll whisper so no one else can hear... I already bought one but I left it in my tractor shed. I'll install it when I get home.

I'm curious to know what causes it... stalling the motor draws too much current I ASSume.
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Old 07-26-2014, 01:07 PM   #4
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When the motor stalls, the current goes way up and will burn the fuse......called "LRA"

What is locked rotor current
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Old 07-26-2014, 01:45 PM   #5
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Thanks, OC.
I'll whisper so no one else can hear... I already bought one but I left it in my tractor shed. I'll install it when I get home.:
I won't tell anyone!
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Old 07-26-2014, 03:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
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When the motor stalls, the current goes way up and will burn the fuse......called "LRA"

What is locked rotor current
Thanks, Fonzie.
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:09 PM   #7
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Just wondering.............
why doesn't this happen when I stall the motors on 3 slides, my awning and my rear stabilizer jacks?
Why is the front jack motor the only one to blow a fuse?
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Old 07-27-2014, 12:17 AM   #8
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I don't want to sugar coat it but your lucky the sliders haven't blown. I suffered this for several stays until "OC" explained. Then found It is a cost savings thingy from the factory. The picture shows the repair while at the river side and yes installing the auto resets worked for me and and and God bless OC for that one too....
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:19 PM   #9
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Thanks, Don & Dona.
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:27 AM   #10
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Avoid running the landing gear all the way up or all the way down. Hitting either limit overloads the system and blows fuses. Personal experience.
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