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Old 04-10-2017, 09:53 PM   #21
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It's under a roof, so no rain, so no water. Duh! [emoji6]
...But if the inside under the shelter is lower than the outside grade level and it rains, it floods...DUH
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Old 04-10-2017, 10:00 PM   #22
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I had my wife back there, but she was all but useless as I couldn't hear her with that rattlin' diesel. I have a 10ft ladder inside in the back and kept getting out of the truck and climbing up on that to see what was going on. I was really glad to see the AC clear fairly easily. The biggest thing now will be clearance for the shower skylight.
It was sure a lot easier to just drive the motor home straight in!
Wife, been there done and don't do that anymore. I do it all and I am still married. As far as water goes, I could not see it being there for more than 24 hours in your climate. Dig it down... New bunker. lol...
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Old 04-10-2017, 10:00 PM   #23
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...But if the inside under the shelter is lower than the outside grade level and it rains, it floods...DUH
And it is lower than the outside ground. It does get wet in there if it really rains hard or we get a lot of snow. Fortunately that doesn't happen often here in Nevada. I have some hard rubber mats I used to drive the MH on so the tires would not be directly on the dirt/gravel. Probably do the same for the trailer. I'm more concerned about sun damage than water damage.
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Old 04-10-2017, 10:05 PM   #24
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SeventyGTX, I have the same fifth wheel ... keep an eye on that front cap for fading, I hope you don't have that problem, but most of that color has the fading bad. Enjoy it ... I love ours
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Old 04-10-2017, 10:10 PM   #25
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SeventyGTX, I have the same fifth wheel ... keep an eye on that front cap for fading, I hope you don't have that problem, but most of that color has the fading bad. Enjoy it ... I love ours
No fading as of yet. I had read about that problem and even saw a couple that were faded and only 1 or 2 years old when I was looking for one. The original owner, who is a member here, had the entire coach coated with some high dollar stuff at the dealer. It appears it has worked to save it so far.

Unfortunately, the open end of the cover gets the direct morning sun. I have a tarp I used to enclose it, but it is still open about two feet at the top. I may take and drape some type of soft material across the front cap to help keep the sun from getting to it. I talked to a welding shop about making some barn doors for it, they gave me a bid of $1500, maybe more. So gotta save some pennies.
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Old 04-10-2017, 10:45 PM   #26
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And it is lower than the outside ground. It does get wet in there if it really rains hard or we get a lot of snow. Fortunately that doesn't happen often here in Nevada. I have some hard rubber mats I used to drive the MH on so the tires would not be directly on the dirt/gravel. Probably do the same for the trailer. I'm more concerned about sun damage than water damage.
You picked the wrong year for that kind of talk!
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Old 04-10-2017, 10:51 PM   #27
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For anyone who hasn't yet built a cover for their RV, learn from this poor man's plight. Build it bigger than you think you're gonna need. Go max legal height, which I believe is 13'6" and then add a foot.

Best of luck sir with your dig. I look forward to seeing the results.

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Old 04-10-2017, 11:27 PM   #28
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For anyone who hasn't yet built a cover for their RV, learn from this poor man's plight. Build it bigger than you think you're gonna need. Go max legal height, which I believe is 13'6" and then add a foot.

Best of luck sir with your dig. I look forward to seeing the results.

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Thanks, I should have listened to my neighbor. He had one built before I did for his Class C, and it is way taller than mine, probably 3 feet higher than his C. I asked why he built it so tall, he said if he ever gets a diesel pusher, he will have room. On the downside it is so tall he had to weld in extra bracing as the ferocious winds we get here had it swaying. I paid extra on mine for heavier square tubing and it has been rock solid. He has the standard tubing.
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Old 04-11-2017, 01:38 PM   #29
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Thanks, I should have listened to my neighbor. He had one built before I did for his Class C, and it is way taller than mine, probably 3 feet higher than his C. I asked why he built it so tall, he said if he ever gets a diesel pusher, he will have room. On the downside it is so tall he had to weld in extra bracing as the ferocious winds we get here had it swaying. I paid extra on mine for heavier square tubing and it has been rock solid. He has the standard tubing.
Yea, I went with the beefiest they offered. Said it's supposed to hold up to 100 MPH winds. I think that is BS, but it was the best they offered. As you can see, I allowed for growth. I can do roof top work under cover.
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:00 PM   #30
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I wound up having to do something similar.

I have a 12' overhang on the side of my garage.
Previous 5th wheels went in there no problem.
The new Flagstaff... not so much.
Had to dig down like you are planning.
First photo is after digging and starting to back fill with some base material.
Second photo is finished. Not much to spare but I couldn't go any lower as I have some utilities running under there too.
I cured the ponding issue by sloping the front away from the dug out area and any water quickly just drains away.
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:32 PM   #31
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Just a question, can't you add to the verticals to raise it? If so, add enough so your 2 -3 feet higher.
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:47 PM   #32
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Could you lift the building and set on 6x6's or rail road ties?
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:49 PM   #33
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Just a question, can't you add to the verticals to raise it? If so, add enough so your 2 -3 feet higher.


Dang you beat me to it! X2 on just raising the entire car port. I feel it would be cheaper than you would expect and then you wouldn't have to worry about water pooling in your port.

Good luck either way!
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Old 04-11-2017, 03:03 PM   #34
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Seems like raising the roof would be less expensive and much safer.
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Old 04-11-2017, 03:14 PM   #35
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Yea, I went with the beefiest they offered. Said it's supposed to hold up to 100 MPH winds. I think that is BS, but it was the best they offered. As you can see, I allowed for growth. I can do roof top work under cover.
We should start a thread called, Show Off Your Cover!
These are nice covers men!!
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
I wound up having to do something similar.

I have a 12' overhang on the side of my garage.
Previous 5th wheels went in there no problem.
The new Flagstaff... not so much.
Had to dig down like you are planning.
First photo is after digging and starting to back fill with some base material.
Second photo is finished. Not much to spare but I couldn't go any lower as I have some utilities running under there too.
I cured the ponding issue by sloping the front away from the dug out area and any water quickly just drains away.
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Old 04-11-2017, 03:32 PM   #36
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Just a question, can't you add to the verticals to raise it? If so, add enough so your 2 -3 feet higher.
My first though also. Don't those type building come in sections? If so, Yes you would have to figure a way to raise the building at the bottom or raise the roof to add the extra sections,but people move entire houses,so perhaps it could be done. Sure would save a lot of work digging out the dirt floor and perhaps hitting the sides with a tractor.
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Old 04-11-2017, 03:34 PM   #37
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Ok, my tractor guy showed up and dug out about 6 inches. Now I have plenty of room. Going the route of trying to raise it would have been way too much $$$. Spending the $200 to dig out the floor was well worth it to me me. Now I will get some gravel spread in there, and it will be fine. Safe from the intense Nevada sun. Although the whip antenna on top is hatin' life. Here is a pic with the Andersen hitch disconnected and the trailer lifted about an inch above the ball....

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Old 04-11-2017, 03:36 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuckerdog1 View Post
For anyone who hasn't yet built a cover for their RV, learn from this poor man's plight. Build it bigger than you think you're gonna need. Go max legal height, which I believe is 13'6" and then add a foot.

Best of luck sir with your dig. I look forward to seeing the results.

Tuckerdog1
OK, here's my not-so-smart planning/execution story. I had a metal shed built for a 30 amp SOB TT. I planned ahead and wired it for 50a in case I ever bought a 50a 5th wheel. Planned ahead... yeah, right. I got the electrical system right but not the height. My shed had 10' side legs. I had the original shed building company replace the 10' legs with 12' legs and it WAS NOT CHEAP -- seems like it was about 70% of the original cost!! But I couldn't go with digging out. I get water under my trailer with a perfectly level floor. A dug-out hole would stand water after every rain.
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Old 04-11-2017, 03:37 PM   #39
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Ok, my tractor guy showed up and dug out about 6 inches. Now I have plenty of room. Going the route of trying to raise it would have been way too much $$$. Spending the $200 to dig out the floor was well worth it to me me. Now I will get some gravel spread in there, and it will be fine. Although the whip antenna on top is hatin' life. Here is a pic with the Andersen hitch disconnected and the trailer lifted about an inch above the ball....

Nothing wrong with that.
A little close but like mine, as long as it fits.
Nice job!
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Old 04-11-2017, 03:48 PM   #40
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Maybe dig down 12" and pour 4" slab? Also, I've seen these things raised by cutting poles about 8" from ground then lifting and "splinting" with channel iron (aluminum) bolted to the ends to raise the roof about 12". Took a back hole boom and several guys but the result was great.
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