your Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller settings?

Taybrynn · 06-13-2014, 04:45 PM

Hi,

I have a 2006 GMC 3500 DRW (dually) and it tows the 2015 Wildcat 337FB very nicely.

However, I am still trying to decide what the optimal brake controller settings should be. I'm using a circa 2006 era "draw tite" branded Prodigy L2 ... seems the same as the regular one, only rebranded.

I've been using B3 (highest setting) for boost and manual set break setting of 7 to 9. The 9 seems more appropriate at highway speeds, the 7 more appropriate for town driving. I'm wondering what the sweet spot is. I haven't messed around enough to figure out exactly where the brakes lock up at (setting wise, without boost on) at the manual suggests. To be honest, locking up the brakes kind of scares me.

The braking in town seems rather harsh, esp. at slower speeds. It seems pretty decent at highway speeds, and I haven't locked up the brakes yet that I can detect.

If you want to share you brake controller settings for the prodigy (only), that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott

Taybrynn · 06-16-2014, 05:56 PM

I'm looking into the possibility of the DirecLink brake controller.

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/...ake-controller

It's a newer version of the old Max Brake, but it gets its input from the diagnostic port instead of from a master cylinder sensor like the old master brake used.

My goal is to have better braking than I'm getting from the Tekonsha P2 ... esp. the grabby brakes at lower speeds.

Taybrynn · 06-19-2014, 08:26 AM

Ok, so wrong place for a brakes question ....

Batts-toy · 06-19-2014, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taybrynn

Ok, so wrong place for a brakes question ....

Not really, you will be getting more responses. I would find the lock up point then back off a little, sound like they are grabbing to hard now "braking in town seems rather harsh". My Tundra and Wildwood are not close enough to your set up to compare settings but I set mine to where the TT does it's own stopping without pushing the TV but not high enough to grab before the TV is braking as well, hope this helps. I have no experience with the other options you mentioned. Enjoy.

Taybrynn · 06-19-2014, 08:58 AM

Thanks. I am
Leaning towards trying the direcbrake because it has. Setting for under 30mph that allows you to have a different setting for low speeds and it's braking isn't reactionary like the tekonsha. I also found I can use my existing adaptor ... So I can easily hook it up
In minutes. The reviews I'm reading are all very positive, esp. On heavier trailers.

DaveSchwartz · 06-19-2014, 11:13 AM

I used to have an el-cheapo Reese BC. It worked okay in my GMC 2500HD CCSB D/A but I was only towing an ~4500lb TT and it wasn't very intelligent. Under normal circumstances I try to brake quite gently but some circumstances (such as a light turning yellow at the worst possible time) you just have to jam on the brakes a bit harder. It was always a challenge finding the right compromise on the voltage slider.

Now that I'm upgrading to a 5er with GVW up around 9200lbs, I picked up a Prodigy P2 the last time I was past a CW. Although I've only pulled 10 miles home from the dealer (only 2 stops and 2 turns) it seemed to be working as I expected.

Since my trailer GVW is almost exactly my truck's GVW, I am using boost level 1 (following the chart on the Prodigy installation sheet). As I understand it, you'd really only want boost 3 if your trailer is >40% over the GVW of the TV and you're just on the edge of that - boost 2 might be a better starting point since you say it is a bit harsh.

However, the initial voltage is going to affect the strength of your braking too, not just how aggressive the boost setting tells it to get. The dealer's tech set the voltage dial on mine on a little test pull he did first and I was a little surprised to see that he set it at 3.6. Of course, they are new brakes that had recently done a 600km trip from Elkhart.

Since you said you haven't done the recommended calibration, I think you might be a bit premature in condemning the Prodigy - this BC is almost universally liked. My first tow was too short and on too busy of a road for me to do test brakings and play with the settings but I think I will be able to tune it to my style and vehicles.

You might want to watch the videos on setting it up: Brake Controllers - Tekonsha

Taybrynn · 06-20-2014, 09:26 AM

Good points. I did have 10 years using the prodigy and liked it .... And it is braking ok .... Just less desirable than I would like. I have 1200 miles messing around with it at various settings, and my dealer also started it very low ... But I basically had no brakes on those low levels. To me, the minimum was around 7 and better around 9-9.5 . I did use only boost b3 which is probably a little much, probably should try b2 instead. I don't know that I'll ever feel totally comfortable on some of the really steep grades. The tow mode on the 3500 duramax adds a ton of control.

I decided to order the Direclink Brake controller and will leave the prodigy as my backup, since the Delphi wiring connector is exactly the same wire colors between the two .... So I can literally unplug the prodigy and plug it into the Direclink and plug the Direclink into the truck OBD2 port. It's pricy at twice the price of a tekonsha L3 but safety is very important to me. I will report back on how it compares.

goduc · 06-20-2014, 11:51 AM

I use a Tekonsha Primus IQ. Basically a cheap version of the P2. I found that B3 is way too much for in town. I use B2 on the road and dial down to B1 in town. It's the boost that is causing you too much drag in town.
I would suggest just dropping the boost in town.

jevanb · 06-20-2014, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taybrynn

Hi,

I have a 2006 GMC

If you want to share you brake controller settings for the prodigy (only), that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott

I have the same year truck and when I had the P2 and the P3 I ran boost 3 with it set at max, it sucked trying to get the 5er stopped, I replaced the wiring from the pin box back to the mag`s with MS standard helped a lot but still felt like it would not stop, replaced the pads with only 500 miles on them, and did a completed burn in, helped a little more. replaced the seals with qty and that helped even more. but in the long run I went back to the reese activator timed base unit and cant be more happy..

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