30 Amp Power Cord Prong Melted Into Surge Protector

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by wabakami

Ang, you are the first person to somewhat mention the receptacle on this post.

I think if you go back and read the entire thread you'll find that loose plugs have been mentioned numerous times.

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

I think if you go back and read the entire thread you'll find that loose plugs have been mentioned numerous times.

Hello John.
Not sure what your idea of "numerous times" is, but I reread the thread for the third time, but with a finer toothed comb and found 2 (two) more mentions, that's like 8% in 35 posts.

clr (post 3)
Quote
Most probable cause is a loose (poor) connection of that prong or a very heave oxidization of that prong.
Unquote
He/she points towards the actual pin (prong) being the possible issue, the plug with no actual mention of the receptacle/socket possibly at fault.


MCTroy (post 22)
Quote
We melted a plug when it wasn't quite tight and a little rain got in.
Unquote
He/she again doesn't come outright and say the receptacle was loose but you are right, it could be read as such.


Ang21 (post 33) my example
Quote
So the plog fits very loose, that is a problem
Unquote
He/she comes the closest to saying the socket could be worn/loose.


I repeat, the sockets are the most likely reason your umbilical melts it's plug when plugged directly into the post (no surge protectors, etc). The plug will wear away slowly but the self wiping action of the receptacles blades (as they are designed to do) will usually make the connection solid, this will not happen if the sockets female pins are worn and weak.

The op mentions both ends of the surge are melted;
The female end would be weak female pins, wire gauge too light, poor crimped connection between the pins and wire or a combination of same.
The plug end (male) is likely the wire gauge is too light, poorly crimped connection between the pins and wire or again a combination of both.
This is an issue with cheaper built electrical devices made in China (just the same as the famous China Bombs, some good but lots bad), I've said before that the op was probably maxxing out the amperage on a well made unit or it was an inferior cheap surge unit and burned up at a lower current. That being said their surge unit could be a defective good one, but it seems strange that both ends had the same melting issue.


Unless your home is newer than 25 years old, in the electrical industry there is rule of thumb that says your 25+ year old receptacles are worn out, this is your commonly used ones, usually the kitchen. Receptacles have a finite life, they fail due to heat and mechanical flexing, guaranteed there are hardly any campgrounds that regularly change the sockets or breakers (they wear too) until they actually break.

In March 2016 I replaced all the 15 and 30 amp sockets in a local campground due to wear (loose, running warm, etc) and just over half of the FPE circuit breakers due to the sticking recall, see my previous post #40 for links to this issue.

Geoff
(30 year master electrician)
.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by wabakami

Hello John.
Not sure what your idea of "numerous times" is, but I reread the thread for the third time, but with a finer toothed comb and found 2 (two) more mentions, that's like 8% in 35 posts.

I just counted 9 times that a loose connection at the pedestal was talked about before you entered the conversation.

As an example:

Originally Posted by JohnD10

I've found that if the door on the pedestal is kept closed it should hold the plug in place.

I used to put a padlock on the pedestal to not only keep my surge protector from getting stolen, but to also hold the plug in place, but I've found that many RV parks are not allowing locks on the pedestals anymore...saying it is a fire hazard.

Anyway...nothing to really argue about.

[myredracer]

OMG, there are many ridiculous statements in this thread by people who obviously have no qualifications in the electrical field. Like this one for ex. (There are some that are qualified and spot on.)

Originally Posted by wabakami

Cheap and even moderately expensive electrical equipment can push the limits of safety with using the lowest rated components possible depending on the certification it is tested under. What was yours certified to; CSA, UL or the worst ETL (Chinese), the three common ones I've listed should have a C or US in small text before or after the 2 or 3 main letters.

ETL is Chinese?? Wrong. ETL is a nationally recognized testing lab (NRTL), the same as CSA or UL. There is no difference between them and any one of the 3 is acceptable. There are other NRTLs as well as these. Electrical components/equipment/devices/appliances are required to have UL, CSA or ETL. There are a few exceptions though such as extension cords and pigtail adapters.

RV adapters and cords may or may not have CSA,UL or ETL certification. CW for example has a shelf full of various non-listed adapters and extension cords. Buyer beware! Hughes autoformers are not listed/certified either (but has some components that are). I highly recommend avoiding cords & adapters that aren't listed as you just don't know how they are constructed inside...

An example of this is a 15amp extension cord (14ga wire) used to run a 1500watt heater (12.5amp), both ends of the extension will run warm; if you use an electric kettle, check the cord cap after boiling water a couple of times, even the kettle's wire will usually get warm too. These items are legally pushing the envelope for accepted conductor size.

Wrong again. A 1500 watt heater is permitted to have a #16 ga. cord and will meet UL/CSA/ETL and NEC requirements. Such cords are in the "free air"analso aren't considered to be continuous loads. The NEC and CEC have tables which list ampacity of appliance cords.


Geoff

It would take too long to correct the various misstatements, but two things you should always do are always keep your plug blades clean and shiny. Inspect periodically and use some light sandpaper or emery cloth as needed. Secondly, always turn the power off before plugging into a pedestal or elsewhere.

Pedestal receptacles can be in terrible condition inside but you can't peer inside to inspect. If a receptacle looks blackened and crispy and the plug won't stay in, find another site if you can. If you can't, you could use a 30 to 30 amp (or 50-50) pigtail adapter so hopefully that's all that would melt. We carry a Camco 30-30 one in case a pedestal is in bad shape and can't go elsewhere.

Another thing worth noting is that any 30 or 50 amp shore power cord and any circuit breaker is rated to carry it's full rated current indefinitely as per UL/CSA and NEC or CEC requirements.

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by myredracer

OMG, there are many ridiculous statements in this thread by people who obviously have no qualifications in the electrical field. Like this one for ex. (There are some that are qualified and spot on.)



It would take too long to correct the various misstatements, but two things you should always do are always keep your plug blades clean and shiny. Inspect periodically and use some light sandpaper or emery cloth as needed. Secondly, always turn the power off before plugging into a pedestal or elsewhere.

Pedestal receptacles can be in terrible condition inside but you can't peer inside to inspect. If a receptacle looks blackened and crispy and the plug won't stay in, find another site if you can. If you can't, you could use a 30 to 30 amp (or 50-50) pigtail adapter so hopefully that's all that would melt. We carry a Camco 30-30 one in case a pedestal is in bad shape and can't go elsewhere.

Another thing worth noting is that any 30 or 50 amp shore power cord and any circuit breaker is rated to carry it's full rated current indefinitely as per UL/CSA and NEC or CEC requirements.

Wow, Gill,
Too bad we'll never meet, I'd say a thing or two to your face.

1. You are also repeating part of what I've said but in your own words.
2. Under Ontario Hydro and CSA you cannot sand the blades of a plug and use in service (light burnishing may be but it is conditional on the blades), the plug must be replaced otherwise. This is also covered under your own NEC.

I'm a 34 year electrician, 20 with red seal and a master rating. I am one of a handful of sparks that are licenced by CSA to certify panel rebuilds in the field, an extremely tough licence t get which I have to requalify for every 3 years.

Think and say what you want, I'm done on this post and if most are like you I no longer give a shite about the danger and problems you have.

Geoff
.

[Herk7769]

Nothing worse than dueling electricians.

PLEASE - if you are in any way uncomfortable around electricity contact a local electrician and check their credentials.

There are unsafe things said on an open forum.
I am NOT qualified to decide who is right.

Moderators are here to keep the peace and keep things civil.
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