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04-10-2018, 07:54 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 8
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Awning and Awning Motor
So I have a standard LCI head unit (Blocky type mounted on the awning arm off the tube).
Recently it has been operating extremely slow and eventually stopped. It will currently work intermittently. I took it to a local RV repair shop and they said I had a crimped wire. I assumed problem was fixed (Checked it before i left). When packing out of Fort Wilderness it would roll up. Checked for crimped wires , to my surprise (insert sarcasm) no crimped wire. I was able to manually help the motor pull the awing up, after 45 minutes of freaking out.
My question is.
-To me this seems like a failing motor. Anybody agree?
-Has anyone successfully changed their own motor?
-Lastly. The awning itself may have one more season on it. Has anyone successfully installed a awning on this type of unit?
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04-10-2018, 08:01 AM
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#2
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World Wide Wanderer
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Sprung Leak, NC
Posts: 1,732
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Not a fan of LCI, prefer Carefree or ZipDee.
The motors are replaceable as is the fabric. No need to purchase a complete awning, the fabric basically slides into the channels. You will need to find the exact procedure, there are springs in the roller that you don't want to accidentally release tension on.
I will have to dig up the schematics for the LCI. I would check voltage at the motor head and make sure you are getting full voltage, loose connections, bad switches and such can mimic a failing motor. Go for the cheap fix first!
Aaron
__________________
Aaron & Rhonda
wahoonc & Airangel60
2016 Coachmen Concord 300DS
2015 Fusion Hybrid following along
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04-10-2018, 08:41 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: baltimore,md
Posts: 405
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I had a problem with my power awning working intermittently and finally traced the issue to the 2 pin connection from the motor to the wire in the arm. 1 pin was totally corroded. cut the connector off and replaced it. applied dielectric grease to the pins. now have a working awning again!
__________________
2008 rockwood signature ultra lite 8315SS[SIGPIC]
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04-10-2018, 08:50 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Not a fan of LCI, prefer Carefree or ZipDee.
The motors are replaceable as is the fabric. No need to purchase a complete awning, the fabric basically slides into the channels. You will need to find the exact procedure, there are springs in the roller that you don't want to accidentally release tension on.
I will have to dig up the schematics for the LCI. I would check voltage at the motor head and make sure you are getting full voltage, loose connections, bad switches and such can mimic a failing motor. Go for the cheap fix first!
Aaron
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Are the other motors switch out pretty easily with the LCI or will there need to be a lot of retro fitting?
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04-10-2018, 08:56 AM
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#5
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World Wide Wanderer
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Sprung Leak, NC
Posts: 1,732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBRIZ
Are the other motors switch out pretty easily with the LCI or will there need to be a lot of retro fitting?
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Need to use the motor that it is designed for. You might be able to make something else fit, but will it work and how well? I haven't torn down and LCI so I don't know if they use a proprietary motor assembly or a universal motor in a mount. Based on the picture from their parts website, only and LCI motor is going to fit. List price is ~$205.
Aaron
__________________
Aaron & Rhonda
wahoonc & Airangel60
2016 Coachmen Concord 300DS
2015 Fusion Hybrid following along
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04-10-2018, 08:59 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realebill
I had a problem with my power awning working intermittently and finally traced the issue to the 2 pin connection from the motor to the wire in the arm. 1 pin was totally corroded. cut the connector off and replaced it. applied dielectric grease to the pins. now have a working awning again!
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WHOA... that seems pretty cheap... I will look at that. I have the same connector exposed on the bottom of my arm
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04-10-2018, 02:42 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 294
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There is/was a thread here a while back about replacing awning motors. These folks found that a power window motor out of junked cars fit fine. Might look at that route before big bucks on a motor from a dealer.
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04-10-2018, 02:42 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 528
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Last year, my local RV Repair Shop changed out the 3 year old Dometic awning material with a heavy duty material supplied by Carefree. The 18' awning material was about $400 installed.
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04-10-2018, 05:14 PM
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#9
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Bene Gesserit Rule
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBRIZ
So I have a standard LCI head unit (Blocky type mounted on the awning arm off the tube).
Recently it has been operating extremely slow and eventually stopped. It will currently work intermittently. I took it to a local RV repair shop and they said I had a crimped wire. I assumed problem was fixed (Checked it before i left). When packing out of Fort Wilderness it would roll up. Checked for crimped wires , to my surprise (insert sarcasm) no crimped wire. I was able to manually help the motor pull the awing up, after 45 minutes of freaking out.
My question is.
-To me this seems like a failing motor. Anybody agree?
-Has anyone successfully changed their own motor?
-Lastly. The awning itself may have one more season on it. Has anyone successfully installed a awning on this type of unit?
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There (usually) is a connector between the motor wire tails and the supply wires from the control panel, just near the motor itself. This may not be connected/seated properly, resulting in a high resistance, which would sap the power, leaving insufficient voltage to run the motor properly. Check that.
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04-11-2018, 09:00 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Just one more reason the old manual awnings are better !!!
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04-11-2018, 04:49 PM
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#11
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Bene Gesserit Rule
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945
Just one more reason the old manual awnings are better !!!
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Ha ha ha ha ha . . Crank, crank, crank, ouch, crank. Not for me.
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04-12-2018, 08:07 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murbella7
Ha ha ha ha ha . . Crank, crank, crank, ouch, crank. Not for me.
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I would trad our power POS for a old manual awning in a minute !!!
Power awning are made for shade and should be put away if the wind blows or it rains !!! Unless we spend a couple of hundred bucks for poles & tie downs !!!
I guess they no longer fit into our push button world !!!
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04-12-2018, 10:58 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945
I would trad our power POS for a old manual awning in a minute !!!
Power awning are made for shade and should be put away if the wind blows or it rains !!! Unless we spend a couple of hundred bucks for poles & tie downs !!!
I guess they no longer fit into our push button world !!!
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X2 - really dislike the power awning after all....
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04-12-2018, 08:22 PM
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#14
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Bene Gesserit Rule
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945
I would trad our power POS for a old manual awning in a minute !!!
Power awning are made for shade and should be put away if the wind blows or it rains !!! Unless we spend a couple of hundred bucks for poles & tie downs !!!
I guess they no longer fit into our push button world !!!
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I have a 5m (15 feet plus) long powered awning that deploys at the push of a button. It then takes me about 3 minutes to attach my 'tie down options'. I added an eye bolt into the pantograph arm at the top near the main roller at each end. I use those rubber strap with hooks (used for tent ropes) at the eye bolt end to give some flexibility and run a rope from these to the bottom bolt that attaches the panto arm to the main wall-mounted strut, pull to bring the panto arm to its lowest point, tighten and tie off. To reduce/minimise wind flapping, I toss a rope over the awning sheet about the middle and tie it off at each end to where the other ropes are. I thread this anti-flap rope through foam rubber 'sausages' before deploying to stop it making permanent creases in the awning material. Works fine.
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04-13-2018, 07:09 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murbella7
I have a 5m (15 feet plus) long powered awning that deploys at the push of a button. It then takes me about 3 minutes to attach my 'tie down options'. I added an eye bolt into the pantograph arm at the top near the main roller at each end. I use those rubber strap with hooks (used for tent ropes) at the eye bolt end to give some flexibility and run a rope from these to the bottom bolt that attaches the panto arm to the main wall-mounted strut, pull to bring the panto arm to its lowest point, tighten and tie off. To reduce/minimise wind flapping, I toss a rope over the awning sheet about the middle and tie it off at each end to where the other ropes are. I thread this anti-flap rope through foam rubber 'sausages' before deploying to stop it making permanent creases in the awning material. Works fine.
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And you still do not have an awning anywhere near as strong as an old Manual ones !!!
EACH TO THERE OWN !!!
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