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Old 04-18-2015, 09:21 PM   #1
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Floor (and likely walls) completed rotted... devastated

After taking my Wildwood out of storage, dewinterizing, resealing, etc., the floor was REALLY bad. I mean really bad, and felt as if we'd go right through it.

So today, we removed the sofa base and side cabinets (what a pain that was, they will need to be rebuilt). And not only were the floor screws rusted, but the walls screws on the front wall, and the two side walls near the corner joints were also rusted. We cut and peeled back the vinyl floor...

OMG. It was completely black with mold and totally saturated. I cover push a screwdriver straight through the rotted plywood.

We're absolutely devastated. We managed to get the majority of the damaged floor removed, as well as the completely soaked insulation. Only the membrane remains.

Can not believe how cheaply these things are made! This is my first RV and I'm kinda in shock- from the damage to the quality.

Can anyone tell me what thickness plywood I need to use to replace the floor? Also the insulation thickness? Any tips and tricks?

Not even sure how to tackle the walls...
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:32 PM   #2
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I would use 1/2-3/4 marine grade plywood depending on how thick it is now.

As for the insulation I think a spray on would do a better job, higher R value, better coverage.
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:39 PM   #3
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Where would I find marine-grade plywood?

ETA: Menards carries some.

Also, some of the rotted plywood from under the front wall came out. Should I try to remove as much as I can from under the wall? Or treat / seal it?
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:43 PM   #4
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Lowes, Home Depot may have it.
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:01 PM   #5
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thats a shame on a 5 year old trailer. the biggest drawback on a "stick and tin" over a smooth wall is the sealing. windows, and other things mounted in walls, use to be sealed with putty tape. the industry found a solution to the time and mess associated with this. "D" foam is now used. this seals poorly with the metal and shrinks even worse over a short time. the fact that they use mesa metal with a reverse even opens the gap even more. all the gaps are begging for caulk. there are threads on floor repair on these boards...post some pics...lets have a look
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:04 PM   #6
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The plywood you use (MUST) go under the Walls! When they MFG.these units the 1st thing layed on top of the Frame is the FLOOR,everything then is built on the Floor! Youroo!!
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:17 PM   #7
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No photos of the floor completely out as there's still lots along the edge to remove. Some of it from under the front wall came out too.



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Old 04-18-2015, 10:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo View Post
The plywood you use (MUST) go under the Walls! When they MFG.these units the 1st thing layed on top of the Frame is the FLOOR,everything then is built on the Floor! Youroo!!
So, how do you get it out from under the walls and how do you get the new stuff back under the wall???
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:33 PM   #9
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Remove the Fasteners that are holding the Walls, Pluming ,Elect,Heat vents,ECT. If wood frame some of the Siding must be removed to (Jack & Support the walls! Hey its a LOT of Work! Youroo!!
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:37 PM   #10
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Geez, I have no idea how to do any of that nor the equipment to do it.
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