Floor (and likely walls) completed rotted... devastated

[bsdmom]

After taking my Wildwood out of storage, dewinterizing, resealing, etc., the floor was REALLY bad. I mean really bad, and felt as if we'd go right through it.

So today, we removed the sofa base and side cabinets (what a pain that was, they will need to be rebuilt). And not only were the floor screws rusted, but the walls screws on the front wall, and the two side walls near the corner joints were also rusted. We cut and peeled back the vinyl floor...

OMG. It was completely black with mold and totally saturated. I cover push a screwdriver straight through the rotted plywood.

We're absolutely devastated. We managed to get the majority of the damaged floor removed, as well as the completely soaked insulation. Only the membrane remains.

Can not believe how cheaply these things are made! This is my first RV and I'm kinda in shock- from the damage to the quality.

Can anyone tell me what thickness plywood I need to use to replace the floor? Also the insulation thickness? Any tips and tricks?

Not even sure how to tackle the walls...

[Ford Idaho]

I would use 1/2-3/4 marine grade plywood depending on how thick it is now.

As for the insulation I think a spray on would do a better job, higher R value, better coverage.

[bsdmom]

Where would I find marine-grade plywood?

ETA: Menards carries some.

Also, some of the rotted plywood from under the front wall came out. Should I try to remove as much as I can from under the wall? Or treat / seal it?

[Ford Idaho]

Lowes, Home Depot may have it.

[Crockett]

thats a shame on a 5 year old trailer. the biggest drawback on a "stick and tin" over a smooth wall is the sealing. windows, and other things mounted in walls, use to be sealed with putty tape. the industry found a solution to the time and mess associated with this. "D" foam is now used. this seals poorly with the metal and shrinks even worse over a short time. the fact that they use mesa metal with a reverse even opens the gap even more. all the gaps are begging for caulk. there are threads on floor repair on these boards...post some pics...lets have a look

[youroo]

The plywood you use (MUST) go under the Walls! When they MFG.these units the 1st thing layed on top of the Frame is the FLOOR,everything then is built on the Floor! Youroo!!

[bsdmom]

No photos of the floor completely out as there's still lots along the edge to remove. Some of it from under the front wall came out too.

[bsdmom]

Originally Posted by youroo

The plywood you use (MUST) go under the Walls! When they MFG.these units the 1st thing layed on top of the Frame is the FLOOR,everything then is built on the Floor! Youroo!!

So, how do you get it out from under the walls and how do you get the new stuff back under the wall???

[youroo]

Remove the Fasteners that are holding the Walls, Pluming ,Elect,Heat vents,ECT. If wood frame some of the Siding must be removed to (Jack & Support the walls! Hey its a LOT of Work! Youroo!!

[bsdmom]

Geez, I have no idea how to do any of that nor the equipment to do it.

[crunchman12001]

Originally Posted by bsdmom

Geez, I have no idea how to do any of that nor the equipment to do it.

The project you have started is not for a novice. This is a major project that you may not be able to complete. Have you contacted your insurance company, they would most likely total the trailer out with this type of damage.
crunchman

[Crockett]

i pull the bottom run of metal all the way around. cable operated camper jacks to support walls. what% of the floor is bad? got insurance?

[Broadway Joe]

If your going to replace the floor, I recommend MDO (not to be confused with MDF)which is waterproof plywood with a kraft paper epoxied on both sides. This is used for outdoor signs and should be available at any good lumber yard.

[Crockett]

water got between the vinyl and substrate, resulting in a large area of damage. did you ever see water on the floor?

[DDC]

There's not much sense repairing anything till you find and repair the leak that caused this damage.

[Crockett]

you usually find the source during the repair. shower trap was my last.

[bsdmom]

Will contact insurance today. The floor from the kitchen cabinet/dinette back to the front wall was completely saturated. When removing the sofa base and side cabinets, the screws in the walls up near the corners were also rusted, as well as the front wall screws. Wherever the leak is, its up front.

The camper was winterized and stored with a cover all winter.

The camper place did a thorough seal/leak check and recaulked everything that needed it throughout the entire camper (and roof) before I brought it home. The only place they thought that maybe could have been a problem were the front two corners, but there was nothing glaring. This is the second year I've had everything serviced for seals, caulking, etc. I've been maintaining it according to what I'm supposed to do. Even had the bearings/axles/wheels services too.

Right now, we're in maintenance mode as we are committed to using it next weekend. We're going to put some temporary plywood down until we figure out what insurance will do, if anything.

Can't believe how quickly this got damaged.

[bsdmom]

What it looks like this morning. Might find the source of the leak today/tomorrow as its supposed to rain.





You can see in this photo where some of the plywood from under the front wall came out.

[rattleNsmoke]

If those walls are 'secured' to rotted flooring what's gonna hold the camper together going down the road? I'd be reluctant moving the trailer across the yard let alone down a highway. Envision a wet cardboard box getting blown by the wind.....

[bsdmom]

There was nothing adhering the wall to the floor. No screws, nothing. That's the only place where it came out from under the wall.