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Old 01-22-2015, 08:04 PM   #1
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How to install a battery disconnect to your Wildwood

Parts required:

Battery disconnect switch

Battery Cable (extension) ensure post mounts are the same on both ends (the large kind) see photo for part specifics

Screw and wing nuts to mount to top of battery box

Steps:

Take battery box top / cover off and drill 4 holes where the battery cutoff switch will mount if applicable.

Unhook ground (white) wire from battery.

Attach new cable to battery gnd post and to switch.

Attach original gnd wire to switch as well.

Mount switch to pre drilled holes on battery box top/cover.

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Old 01-22-2015, 08:18 PM   #2
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Nice write up. I've done pretty much the same install except I put mine on the front instead of the top. I was all set to install mine on the frame when I saw a similar install on the box.

When I arrive home I either plug in or flip the switch until my next trip. Works great.
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Old 01-22-2015, 08:34 PM   #3
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I'd like to do this. I hadn't considered the possibility of mounting it on a lid. Seems like a good idea. But is the battery switch waterproof? The lid may get rained on if we have some weather while towing, or while the trailer cover is off at home during trip prep.
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:09 PM   #4
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How to install a battery disconnect to your Wildwood

I was also concerned about the water proof aspect of this, but I figure it's all plastic and sealed for the most part and covers the actual connections so it should last a decent amount of time in the elements...

I can also cover it with a plastic bag / rubber band / shower cap or some cover if required....

I mean it is a "Marine Battery Switch"

A review confirmed it is protected from elements with a gasket of some kind so that's good
News as well...

Worst case after 5-10 years I can buy a new one for 20$
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:17 PM   #5
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Waterproof mentioned
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:00 PM   #6
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And no ones going to start the arguement that it should be the positive cable, not the negative?
Mine is on the negative also.
Nice write up.
Looks good.
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Old 01-23-2015, 02:29 PM   #7
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Well I don't know about this model, but on my Lacrosse 308RES I had the switch on the negative side and had to switch it over to the positive side.

I initially followed advice on this forum to put on negative side. But my battery was still draining. There was still a small voltage, 3 to 6 volts inside and the Radio and Propane detectors still stayed on draining the battery.

I put the switch on the positive side, and now everything is off.


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Old 01-23-2015, 05:19 PM   #8
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I should probably check to see if there is still draw from. Battery after the negative side is disconnected.

I know my LED awning lights don't work with I switch off but haven't checked those items mentioned above.

Without ground I am not sure how any electronic would function properly if at all...

But I could see how the battery might still drain a bit..

-Joe
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Old 01-23-2015, 05:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaHarley View Post
Well I don't know about this model, but on my Lacrosse 308RES I had the switch on the negative side and had to switch it over to the positive side.

I initially followed advice on this forum to put on negative side. But my battery was still draining. There was still a small voltage, 3 to 6 volts inside and the Radio and Propane detectors still stayed on draining the battery.

I put the switch on the positive side, and now everything is off.


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Something fishy going on there....There is no way current can flow out of the battery without a ground being hooked up. I have had a few trailers where I hooked up a disconnect switch using the negative side of the battery and on all of them with the negative side of the battery disconnected the trailer had no power anywhere....Did you try unhooking the cable at the post that went to the trailer frame to see if that would kill all the power in your detectors. I'm thinking something else is going on there...If someone knows how this could happen I'm all ears.....
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:09 PM   #10
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I understand what you are saying. As I thought the same thing.

My guess is that maybe there is some sort of ground going on through the convertor as that is connected to the same buss inside.

I'm only stating the way it is working on my trailer, I suggest you check your own.

What was happening on mine, and the way I found this out was; my propane detector started going off continuously, the red light was on instead of green. And my radio memory (blue background) light remained on. And my battery voltage was still dropping over a few days. So I put the meter across the pos. and neg. terminals inside on the panel and found what I'm calling stray voltages between 3 and 6 volts..... Go figure.

So yesterday, I finally got a chance to switch it over from the negative to the positive side. The switch is located right at the battery as I did a post on it.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tch-72965.html

Anyway, now, with the switch "off", there is no voltage inside and the propane detector light and radio lights are off....
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaHarley View Post
I understand what you are saying. As I thought the same thing.

My guess is that maybe there is some sort of ground going on through the convertor as that is connected to the same buss inside.

I'm only stating the way it is working on my trailer, I suggest you check your own.

What was happening on mine, and the way I found this out was; my propane detector started going off continuously, the red light was on instead of green. And my radio memory (blue background) light remained on. And my battery voltage was still dropping over a few days. So I put the meter across the pos. and neg. terminals inside on the panel and found what I'm calling stray voltages between 3 and 6 volts..... Go figure.

So yesterday, I finally got a chance to switch it over from the negative to the positive side. The switch is located right at the battery as I did a post on it.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tch-72965.html

Anyway, now, with the switch "off", there is no voltage inside and the propane detector light and radio lights are off....
Strange....? With my negative side of the battery running through the switch when I have the batteries disconnected I have no power to anything including all detectors and the radio. The whole trailer is powerless...This was the same with two previous trailer I have owned. I'm not sure where or how you got power or current to those things without battery being fully connected. Something seems off in your setup? Do you have two batteries or one? If two did you use the negative cable that was running to the frame?
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Old 01-23-2015, 08:07 PM   #12
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I only have one battery, and one ground wire from the battery. (Although I will be adding a 2nd battery in the future.)

Like I said, I'm only stating what happened on and with my trailer. I am not an electric buff, etc. And I am not saying I am right or anybody else is wrong.....

My trailer is a 2012 and really only 2 years old.

My reason for posting this, is to point out that not all trailers are the same.

I would suggest for anyone reading this and thinking about doing it, before you do, first disconnect the ground wire from your battery and make sure that all lights, etc. are off and there is no voltage inside at the panel. If not, then you are good to go.
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Old 01-23-2015, 10:18 PM   #13
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There must be an issue with your battery, switch or something else...
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:20 AM   #14
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I'm no electrician, but would the battery still provide a current if the neg side of the battery was off at the battery, but the item in the RV was direct grounded to the frame of the RV. Would that not complete a circuit?
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:43 PM   #15
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I'm no electrician, but would the battery still provide a current if the neg side of the battery was off at the battery, but the item in the RV was direct grounded to the frame of the RV. Would that not complete a circuit?

Every 12V item in an RV is direct grounded to the frame at some point, except maybe the tongue jack on a TT and the breakaway switch on a TT. (which was how mine was wired)
ONLY if the negative from the battery was still somehow connected to the frame could there be voltage beyond the two post on top of the battery.
My vote is a switch issue that is now not showing itself while connected to the positive side. (or not showing up as readily)
High voltage AC and super high voltage DC will make an air gap if close enough, 12 VDC will not.
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:57 PM   #16
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It is possible to pick up a high impedance ground potential thru a plastic battery box. Either thru static electricity or condensation. This was an issue with my boat a few years back. Had a disconnect on the negative side and had to move it to the positive terminal. Just my input.
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Old 02-01-2015, 02:05 PM   #17
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Thanks for the info.


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Old 03-09-2015, 10:48 AM   #18
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Great write up, I was just in the process of doing this, thanks...Sherm
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:56 AM   #19
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For you Canucks, Princess Auto has the switch you see in the pics, $15.00. It also has a removable knob so no one can dick with the switch, not that I know anyone that would want to dick with my switch???????? This switch has a bottom plate that worked nicely by putting it on the inside of the battery cover to give the entire assembly a little more stability. I also bought two short lengths of battery cable and added them on, this way it makes taking the cover off and disconnecting the battery very easy. I did hook it up to the positive side, as per the instructions that came with it. Sherm
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:59 AM   #20
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Nice job Sherm!
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