Leak or overflow valve?

[Terramcconnell]

We have a 2016 Heritage Glen and have noticed a leak happening for a while in the pic below- we can't figure out if it's the water heater or an overflow valve- its coming from the piece that has the blue metal sign on it-can someone please let me know what you think?

[fonzie]

Read this thread....

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ng-108734.html

[CHICKDOE]

that is the pressure relief valve on the water heater. your water heater at home also has one. it is a safety device to allow pressure to vent from the water heater tank. in doing so it can pick up some water and vent it to the outside. if it was just an occasional leak when the water heater was up to temperature I wouldn't worry about it. if it was a continuous leak i'd consider replacing the pressure relief valve. very easy to do as it just screws out. you can get a replacement at any hardware store.

[Terramcconnell]

Awesome! Thanks so much for your quick reply and the info!!

[Swampy]

You should test the PR valve to see if it is just that the captive air in the WH is gone and when the thermostat calls for heat and the water expands, it has to go somewhere, so it trickles out the PR valve. Here's what to do to test the valve...1. turn off the heater propane and electric. 2 turn off the onboard water pump and city water. 3 bleed off the pressure from the PR valve. 4 with prvalve still open, open one of the hot water taps in kitchen, bath, or outdoor shower it should suck a little air into the line and you should get an increase in the water flow out the PR valve. when the water stops draining out the PR valve, close the PRvalve and whichever hot water faucet you turned on. turn on water pump or city water & let it pressurize.Now turn the fuel source to the WH back on (propane , electric or both and let the water heat. after the water has become hot, observe the PR valve it should no longer be trickling water. and the captive air has been restored. if it is still trickling water, then the PR valve has a bad valve seat and will need to be replaced. Best of luck fixing the issue .... Swampy

[Terramcconnell]

Thank you! I will do that and see what happens! Thanks alot for your info!

[Iwannacamp]

In the industrial relief valve world...once a relief valve has relieved a few times it is no longer accurate. I.E. opening the relief valve(instead of faucet) to get air out. I would not, but others do. The valves we sell(Kunkle mostly) can cost thousands and are very critical.


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[Terramcconnell]

Good to know! Thanks! This was the first time we've ever touched that valve and we jiggles it a few times so hopefully it'll last us a while lol if not we will replace it- we full time and my job is taking care of everything and the rig so I'm happy to learn everything I can!

[bubbles]

Just a note. To close the valve just slap the lever with finger and allow the valve to snap closed. It will then seat properly.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Just a note. To close the valve just slap the lever with finger and allow the valve to snap closed. It will then seat properly.

And be careful... if the water heater is on, the water can be HOT and under pressure. You might want to turn the WH off and let it cool some and also relieve the city water/pump pressure before trying to reset.

[floridela]

You should open the relief valve occasionally to insure that it is working and to make sure it doesn't have any buildup around the valve. You can do this with cold water in tank, just have it pressurized and stand clear of the opening. Flip the valve handle up and blow off some water. Not only should you do this to your RV water heater, you should do this to your water heater at home. This is a PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE, if it doesn't relieve pressure it will go boom. Only way to know it works is to test it periodically! Just sayin!
A tip for winterizing, when draining the hot water tank, bleed off any pressure by opening a valve inside or outside if you have one, then remove the plug or anode rod. Water will start to come out but by opening up the relief valve you will let air in and the tank will drain much faster.

Oh, and the relief valves at home depot or online are about 15 to 20 dollars.

[gettawaydriver]

Don't open the valve with reduced atmospheric pressure in the lines to let it "suck a little air in", this will also potentially suck in dust/dirt/debris/oxidation/a bug... whatever, into the PR valve or your tank. The valve should only ever pass air or fluid from the back side of the internal mechanism and it should be clean.

[WNY_Clipper]

Can't tell from the pictures if the leak is from the valve itself (needs replacing) or from the threads? If it is from the threads, I would remove it, put some pipe dope on it, then reinstall.

[Swampy]

Originally Posted by gettawaydriver

Don't open the valve with reduced atmospheric pressure in the lines to let it "suck a little air in", this will also potentially suck in dust/dirt/debris/oxidation/a bug... whatever, into the PR valve or your tank. The valve should only ever pass air or fluid from the back side of the internal mechanism and it should be clean.

If you just opened the valve to equalize pressure in the tZnk, it likely vented some water from inside the tank. If your water heater is filthy, common sense would dictate to clean it off before doing anything that could contaminate the water within. The object here is to re-establish an air pocket in the tank so that when the water heats and expands, the volume of air absorbs the pressure change without causing the PR valve to open and vent water. This is probably a Suburban WH, but there are some very good instructions on the Atwood WH site on troubleshooting the WH. Google it and see roughly the same instructions to test the PR Valve and re-establish the air pocket.

[Swampy]

Here is the information from the Atwood Maintenance manual:


Swampy

[Swampy]

Sorry, the pdf I tried to post was deleted when the message posted.
However, Similar information is on the FRF under waterheaters. Here is what is posted there: .... Swampy
RV’ers not aware of this may mistakenly conclude the P&T valve is bad when it is not. (Emphasis added. FM) To further complicate matters they may replace the valve and in the process re-introduce an adequate air expansion pocket and then it will naturally work fine…until the air expansion pocket is diminished again and the whole process repeats itself. RV’ers replacing numerous P&T valves are most likely doing it needlessly. So what is the answer?

Reintroduce an adequate air expansion pocket and this is how it is done:

1. Turn water heater off.
2. Turn off water supply (city H2O or H2O pump)
3. Open closest hot H2O faucet in RV.
4. Open the P&T valve by pulling on handle at end of valve and allow H2O to flow until it stops.
5. Release handle on P&T valve – it should snap shut. ( do this a couple of times as it may stick)
6. Close hot water faucet.
7. Turn on H2O supply – Now that everything is closed the tank will refill and air expansion pocket will be re-established.
Repeat the above procedure if P&T valve continues to weep between heating cycles. If this is not successful then the P&T valve should be replaced.