Leveling tires with wood

[bvanoen1]

On our 2020 27RE we need to bring up the entry side as we sit on our concrete slab. Trying to direct a/c condensation to the opposite side, just slightly. My question is; Is there a max height that we shouldn't exceed when raising one side?

Two inches of wood gets me level. Can I go any higher to encourage water to head that way or quit while I'm level?

[5picker]

I often level with as much as 5-6" of wood on one side in remote boondocking locations. Sometimes more.

As long as the blocking/ramps/legos/Andersen Levelers are substantial enough to hold the weight you are placing on them, it would be no different then having the tires on concrete/pavement.

Having one side of the R/V slightly higher will pose no issues other than a door may close by itself. It is often said if you can walk comfortably in the R/V, you are not too out of level. Not sure I'd go that far but you get the picture.

[madatme]

I don't think it will hurt, no difference which side is unlevel, go just enough for what you need

[HappyTrav]

The big issue is the fridge. If you have an ammonia based RV fridge it needs to be level to operate properly.

Bob

[5picker]

Originally Posted by HappyTrav

The big issue is the fridge. If you have an ammonia based RV fridge it needs to be level to operate properly.

Bob

Even then, slightly unlevel isn't an issue.
Here is what Dometic says... The refrigerator should not be more than 3 degrees unlevel left to right, or 6 degrees unlevel front to back. (They are referring to the refrigerator itself.)

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by HappyTrav

The big issue is the fridge. If you have an ammonia based RV fridge it needs to be level to operate properly.

Bob

Actually not a big issue at all. The trailer just had to be level enough for you, the fridge will be fine.

[HappyTrav]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Actually not a big issue at all. The trailer just had to be level enough for you, the fridge will be fine.

Interesting. I always thought it had to be pretty close and keep a bubble level in the fridge for that reason.

Bob

[n0ms]

I got rid of the wood and have had great luck with Andersen Levelers

[thepeddler]

5picker: can the degrees you mentioned be converted to inches for front to back, and side to side?

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by bvanoen1

On our 2020 27RE we need to bring up the entry side as we sit on our concrete slab. Trying to direct a/c condensation to the opposite side, just slightly. My question is; Is there a max height that we shouldn't exceed when raising one side?

Two inches of wood gets me level. Can I go any higher to encourage water to head that way or quit while I'm level?

I have 1x8 and 2x8 I keep in our TT. I too like to keep the A/C draining to driver side. If the 2x8 gets me level, I'll add the 1x8 to get the angle to get water to drain to driver side. Refrig will be fine. I still only use the two bubble levels I stuck on the side of the TT when we get to a site. Never has the frig given us trouble.

[bvanoen1]

Thanks to all. I appreciate the quick and helpful suggestions.

[rsdata]

I carry a beveled 4 foot 2X10, plus several more beveled 1 foot 2x10 to stack up in case I need it. Many KY campgrounds are that much out. When the camper is level, and the AC runs off on the door side, it does not take much more force on the manual stab jacks to get the roof to pitch from left to right. Let one side down on the stabilizers just a bit and lift the other side just a bit. YES I know I cannot support the camper on the stab jacks, so you have to be aware that just a small shot using a battery drill-driver to screw the jacks up/down does the trick.

I always say that if the camper feels level to you while walking/sleeping in it, then it is level enough for the fridge to work. My normal driveway parking spot is about 3 inches out of level left to right. I put about 3-1/4" of wood planks (two 2X10 inch lumber) under the doorway side wheels to level it. Trailer is level front to back and the ammonia fridge has worked fine for months at a time running on shore power.

If you use the right levels like these Hopkins the bubbles are marked in inches.

[jwfrede]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Even then, slightly unlevel isn't an issue.
Here is what Dometic says... The refrigerator should not be more than 3 degrees unlevel left to right, or 6 degrees unlevel front to back. (They are referring to the refrigerator itself.)

Thanks for the info. 3 degrees means about 5 inches over 8 ft. So a couple inches high one side shouldn't hurt.

[DrLewie]

My Cardinal had the standard landing gear in front and manual stabilizers in back. We carried Lynx Levelers as well as a batch of 2"x 6" planks. Even in some campgrounds we needed a load of wood under the wheels to get level-ish. We ordered the new Arctic Fox with 4 point Lippert "automatic" levelers so we figured we'd be able to use all that wood in a campfire. The first time we set up the new fiver I was surprised to see the first instruction on the levelers was "Park the trailer on level ground." So much for "automatic " we still need the wood. Set up is a little easier and faster but I'm not sure the levelers were worth the cost.

[kraftengr]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Even then, slightly unlevel isn't an issue.
Here is what Dometic says... The refrigerator should not be more than 3 degrees unlevel left to right, or 6 degrees unlevel front to back. (They are referring to the refrigerator itself.)

Well...doing the math...3 degrees out of level side to side based upon an 8 feet wheel separation equals 5". That doesn't seem to me to be very level; so it doesn't seem like Dometic refrigerators are that sensitive to needing to be level!

[kraftengr]

Sorry Jeff (jwfrede)! I didn't see your post before I sent mine!

[Freetyme]

Don't see a problem, but would use as little as it takes. I've slipped a piece of rubber hose over the gutter spout before to redirect. X2 on the Andersen's. Gives you 1/2" to 4" rise.

[jwfrede]

Originally Posted by kraftengr

Well...doing the math...3 degrees out of level side to side based upon an 8 feet wheel separation equals 5". That doesn't seem to me to be very level; so it doesn't seem like Dometic refrigerators are that sensitive to needing to be level!

My first RV use was a rental in Alaska some years ago and was a 25 ft motorhome. They gave me a bubble and some wood and said get it within 1 bubble diameter of the middle. That 1 bubble diameter turned out to be about 2-3 inches. So it seems easy to make the requirement, except maybe some boondocking places. Not sure how you sleep right much past 2-3 inches anyway,unless its your head that is in the highest position.

[bedubya]

I like to lean slightly forward and curbside. That way rain or A/C condensation is away from my door (at the back) and my shower low point is the drain.

[jimmoore13]

Level is ideal. Why? For an evaporator fridge, being too far out of level will cause the fridge to shut down.

But, you want to control condensate flow in the AC unit, and an inch or so is not likely to cause any problems.

We boondock exclusively, and frequently on a steeply sloped lake shore. At times I have to dig a hole for the uphill tire and finagle the leveling wedge on the downhill side to match up with the hole. (I carry a small pick-mattock to dig the hole quickly.) The result is often kinda sorta level...almost but not quite. The fridge runs fine.

So, if your fridge quits, you went too far. If your guests feel as if they are in the Mystery Spot Gravity Illusion fun house, you've gone too far.
Otherwise...

By the way, I like this a lot. It works well on relatively soft dirt. Anderson Levelers are also nice, but any "curved bottom" leveler sinks into soil. On dirt, they are good for the second axle, and they are wonderful on pavement. I have one of each....I have a single axle PUP.

Now the $64,000 question. Why is condensate an issue in the AC? Is it running off the curb side of your trailer roof and mucking up the outdoor space? Perhaps it would make sense to figure out a kluge to route the condensate thru a hose to where you want it. Just be aware that any condensate drain hose will need to be cleaned somewhat regularly, because it will clog up and it will grow lifeforms that plug it up, too.