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Old 01-05-2018, 12:38 PM   #1
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New Electrical Gremlin with the WH

Hello All- I have owned a Wildwood T202RDXL for a little over a year. I have since replaced the Water Heater switchboard 2x, opting for a larger universal unit on the 3rd round. The original, and the replacement switchboard melted in the same location both times. My issue now is that whenever the WH starts to light, the ticking noise comes from the main panel area at the same time, and is very loud. 1/2 the time it doesn't even light, and in most cases, the WH turns off overnight. I knew that these Wildwood trailers were cheap, but I really didn't expect to pay for so much for replacement parts after a year.

Any suggestions?
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Old 01-05-2018, 12:43 PM   #2
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Make and model of the water heater?
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Old 01-05-2018, 12:51 PM   #3
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Make and model of the water heater?
Not sure the model, but it is a Suburban. Operation manual is for the SW4DE and SW6DE, so I am guessing it is the lower model.
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Old 01-05-2018, 12:58 PM   #4
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Not sure the model, but it is a Suburban. Operation manual is for the SW4DE and SW6DE, so I am guessing it is the lower model.
That is the make and model.


All the 4 or 6 dictates is the tank size in gallons. The water heater is pretty much the same whether it's a 4, 6, 10 or larger tank size.

The operation of all these models are explained in this link:

Suburban's electric switch and much more
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Old 01-05-2018, 01:14 PM   #5
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That is the make and model.


All the 4 or 6 dictates is the tank size in gallons. The water heater is pretty much the same whether it's a 4, 6, 10 or larger tank size.

The operation of all these models are explained in this link:

Suburban's electric switch and much more
I read through this and I appreciate it! We have the 6 gallon, so I got that covered now. I have gone through these processes on the lighting of the WH a few times, and should have that taken care of. My concern is that the loud clicking coming from the main power panel now. It is almost like a relay switch is either going out, or trying way too hard to get power over to the WH. I haven't heard that until the last couple times out. Just doesn't sound right, you know? I did look at the panel that houses all of the relays, and physically I cannot see that there are any that are burned out. My other concern is that once I do get it lit, it does stay on during the day, and each morning we wake up to the DSI fault. Like I mentioned, I did change the switchboard at the WH out 2x already, and also replaced the anode. I will have to do some more investigating!
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Old 01-05-2018, 01:22 PM   #6
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So when you are describing the clicking relay at the main power panel, are you referring to the control panel where your water heater switch is located or something on the water heater itself? Your terminology of "changed the switchboard at the WH" has me confused.
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Old 01-05-2018, 01:39 PM   #7
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So when you are describing the clicking relay at the main power panel, are you referring to the control panel where your water heater switch is located or something on the water heater itself? Your terminology of "changed the switchboard at the WH" has me confused.
Gotcha, yeah it was a little confusing after I read what I wrote. I have changed the igniter board AT the water heater 2x (the small board that is taped to the outside of the water heater underneath our dining bench). The newer one seems to be good, and it is fused, so hopefully it won't melt like the original, and the first replacement did. The relay switch clicking noise is coming from the electrical panel that is located underneath the fuse/ breaker panel behind a false wood panel. It is where all of the electrical is distributed out. I have to remove 4 panel screws and take the wood cover off in order to get to it.
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Old 01-05-2018, 01:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwalk View Post
Gotcha, yeah it was a little confusing after I read what I wrote. I have changed the igniter board AT the water heater 2x (the small board that is taped to the outside of the water heater underneath our dining bench). The newer one seems to be good, and it is fused, so hopefully it won't melt like the original, and the first replacement did. The relay switch clicking noise is coming from the electrical panel that is located underneath the fuse/ breaker panel behind a false wood panel. It is where all of the electrical is distributed out. I have to remove 4 panel screws and take the wood cover off in order to get to it.
Turn off the Main Circuit Breaker. 30A. Try a light to ensure it is off. Remove the circuit breaker labeled Water heater. 20A ?. Look to see if you have any arcing on the breaker contacts or on the buss bar it connects to. Sounds like this might be what you are hearing.
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Old 01-05-2018, 01:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwalk View Post
Gotcha, yeah it was a little confusing after I read what I wrote. I have changed the igniter board AT the water heater 2x (the small board that is taped to the outside of the water heater underneath our dining bench). The newer one seems to be good, and it is fused, so hopefully it won't melt like the original, and the first replacement did. The relay switch clicking noise is coming from the electrical panel that is located underneath the fuse/ breaker panel behind a false wood panel. It is where all of the electrical is distributed out. I have to remove 4 panel screws and take the wood cover off in order to get to it.
OK, thanks for clearing that up.

I'll assume your control panel is a touch screen. (newer units have these instead of rows of mechanical switches) The touch screen buttons simply operate a relay (usually in a bank mounted separate from the control board) for the desired button you are pushing. Depending on how/what these relays are mounted, they can simply make a loud noise because the mounting point acts as a speaker, amplifying the mechanical clicking of the relay. It may not (or may) mean there is anything going wrong with the relay.

Also, should you need to replace again, many here (including myself over the years) have had very good luck replacing the igniter board with one made by Dinosaur Electronics.
Here's a link...

Dinosaur Electronics
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Old 01-05-2018, 01:56 PM   #10
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Turn off the Main Circuit Breaker. 30A. Try a light to ensure it is off. Remove the circuit breaker labeled Water heater. 20A ?. Look to see if you have any arcing on the breaker contacts or on the buss bar it connects to. Sounds like this might be what you are hearing.
Just for the sake of correctness, in case someone jumps in and starts reading...
Checking if the AC power is off after flipping the 30 main breaker by "turning on a light" is not the correct way to tell if the AC power is off.

The lights are 12v and will still illuminate (provided your battery(ies) are good even when the main AC breaker is thrown.

I'd hate to see someone get hurt digging around in a live panel box.
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