Newbie Manually TT Leveling & Stabilizing

[KySky]

I'm brand new to TT living and I have a lot to learn, so:

I recently bought a 2015 Wildwood 195BH that was hauled to camp site and setup by the dealer on the first day, the gentlemen was on old RV veteran that leveled it by eye and set the stabilizers and gone all in 2 minutes, very impressive. The camper was so stable it never budged a bit when coming in & out and while moving about inside.

I asked one of the guys in the dealership garage about the sequence in leveling, because this model TT didn't come with level indicators on it. They guy said he set's up the For Sale units by using his level on the door threshold and leveling by adjusting the trailer tongue first then side to side.

I've recently read, I believe in the O&M and in a blog to level side to side first then front to back. This method seems best since I also read you want to level the sides first by adjusting tires by using blocks/wood, then level front to back by adjusting the trailer tongue. Sounds right.

I'm a little confused by the stabilizers though. Without forethought, while storing I was attempting to setup by front to back first and then side to side by using the stabilizers as levelers, before I read that these are not used for this purpose and could wrap the trailer frame and ruin the stabilizers.

So, now that I think I have the sequence for leveling correct (right?), how much do I crank the stabilizers to get that "Solid" feel? Keep cranking until the floor just starts to raise? After doing all four, I find I keep going back and forth tweaking to adjust for slack that seems to keep developing in the opposite stabilizer until before I know it I've changed the level of it. Am I over thinking this? I usually do.

Thanks for any advise.

[Mountndream]

level left to right using boards or the orange plastic legos. Then adjust front to back using tongue jack. Only then do you use the stabilizers jacks to stabilize the level trailer

[Ford Idaho]

Side to side first, use wood blocks or the plastic leggo type blocks or a combo of both.

Front to back then set the stab jacks, you do NOT want to use the jacks to level.

I use a bubble level in the bottom of fridge.

Prime Prodct 280201 Bubble Level, White - Walmart.com

[SeaDog]

So after leveling side to side and front to back lower the stabilizing jacks and snug up against the trailer. If you truly want to have a solid install something like the steady fast system.

[KySky]

Thanks everyone for the confirmation.

[satdog01]

Now would be a good time for the jack in the middle of the unit to chime in. Where does the placement of these get done in the sequence.

[BBQGUY]

If you intent to leave the unit in the campground like a park model consider using 6-8 piers of stacked concrete blocks for support to achieve that house like feel when you walk around in the unit.

[Marauderer]

On my TT I use the between the wheel caulks and the stabilization jacks. I installed bubble levels at the right front corner of the trailer. I used a 2 ft level on the floor and frame to level the trailer and used a bubble level in the Fridge to get what i considered a zero level and then installed the bubble levels on the trailer. The stab. jacks are not the best and I still on occasion had the rolling bouncing problem inside. It really bothered the DW so I just installed a JR Strong arm system and now it is really solid all the time. There are other stabilization system out there that are also very good. But, you may want to install one of them to get the most stabilized base possible.

[dodosmike]

I put a 4' level on the kitchen counter. I put 2x6 boards under the tires and get it close to level side to side. Use the tongue jack for front-rear level, again, using the 4' level on the counter. Put the stab jacks down on smaller pieces of 2x6 until they "groan" from the weight pushing on them. then roll out the slide and awning. I do this all while drinking a beer on the picnic table while using my remote control...lol My 6yo son is the designated "board fetcher".

I've got a long wheelbase trailer and never have a bounce/jounce issue.

[KySky]

I guess that 's what I was getting at. Once I start cranking on the stab jacks I'm not sure when to stop because I could keep cranking until I start to lift the tires, but if they're not intended as leveling jacks then how much weight are they intended for? Just stop cranking when I start to see the frame moving up?

[SeaDog]

Originally Posted by KySky

I guess that 's what I was getting at. Once I start cranking on the stab jacks I'm not sure when to stop because I could keep cranking until I start to lift the tires, but if they're not intended as leveling jacks then how much weight are they intended for? Just stop cranking when I start to see the frame moving up?

run them down until they are snug, this may be when you first see the frame start to move. I have electric stabilizers so when I see the trailer start to lift I stop and call that done. I use X-chocks and have steady fast stabilizer system installed my travel trailer is rock solid.

[dodosmike]

I'm with SeaDog, I crank mine until they're snug, When the motor starts to "groan".
When I put them all the way back up for traveling I tighten them as far as they'll go and then back them off a "tad", so they are not under tension when not in use.

[Bunkie]

Yeah, I'm relatively new to camping as well & I never know when to stop with my stabilizers. Sometimes I'll extend them so much that my tongue jack starts to come off its block.
I have a 2016 Wildwood BHXL and I find that the electric factory stabilizers aren't the best. How much do some of the non-factory stabilizer systems that have been mentioned in this thread cost?
Thanks!

[pbandrb]

snug (groan) is best, my eletric ones will auto stop if i hold button to long or to much groan, then the reset. i still find it challenging with day 2 and 3 settling in, it seems the gravel sites or trailer settles more and more each day

[emm-dee]

After setting wheels, then tongue, to get level, I use a Makita drill for the six stabilizers. Set the torque release on the drill and run each stabilizer until they get to the point the torque release operates. Then I use the speed handle thingy and put 1.5 turns on each one. That way I'm about as close to equal pressure I can get on the stabs. Trailer is rock solid.

[pbandrb]

Originally Posted by emm-dee

After setting wheels, then tongue, to get level, I use a Makita drill for the six stabilizers. Set the torque release on the drill and run each stabilizer until they get to the point the torque release operates. Then I use the speed handle thingy and put 1.5 turns on each one. That way I'm about as close to equal pressure I can get on the stabs. Trailer is rock solid.

6 stabilizers would be nice, i have 4 on a 33' frame i thought about getting two of the screw jack stand type and have them in the middle

[emm-dee]

Originally Posted by pbandrb

6 stabilizers would be nice, i have 4 on a 33' frame i thought about getting two of the screw jack stand type and have them in the middle

I mounted two of them just forward of the front axle and it made a world of difference. Also, I bolted pads directly to the pads of the jacks. The intent was to not have to reach under to retrieve the pads when leaving. Was surprised to find that mod also increased stability.

Easy install and not expensive.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IK...DqL&ref=plSrch

[pbandrb]

thanks for the info and Pic great idea just front of axel