possibly purchasing Heritage Glen 300bh

[jlcollier1]

Anybody feel like telling me pros and cons, likes, dislikes, or helpful info on a 2015 HGlen 300bh?! Thanks

[Code13]

We bought ours just this past April. We have 2 children and the bunkhouse is great! Love the kitchen layout and all the pantry space and island. If you get the newer version it should have the shower with curved sliding doors....very nice. This is a large pull behind with significant weight and length to deal with. We pull ours with a 3500 drw truck wich may be overkill but I like the safety factor we have......make sure you have a large enough tow vehicle. At least a 2500 /250 or bigger. Don't let anyone talk you into thinking it's okay to pull this with a 1500 /150 truck. You will never make payload once you load your family and any gear.

So far the only cons we have found is the cabinet doors seem to be a fragile in that the screws pull out easy from the frames. Also the kitchen slide will bind or could rip the doors off the cabinet if they come loose during travel so you have to watch those before putting in or out the slide. They seem to pop open by themselves for some reason. The spare tire mount weld failed on first trip and I was lucky we didn't loose the spare. I just happened to check it before pulling out to head back home.

Overall we are very pleased as this is our second TT with a bunkhouse. We are finding that they all have a fragile quality to them and are made with basically the same stock componets. For us it came down to the layout for our useability and this was the best we could find. We researched several makes and models and walked through several slowly narrowing the list until this was the winner.

Hope that helps....happy hunting.

[Justice191]

I am with code1, we bought our 300bhs for the layout. Our purchase was in late July. We have two kids, it just seemed functional for the money, 28.5k from Holmans in Cincinnati area. First trip put, directly from the Dealer, I opened it up to find the crown molding from the living room slide out in the floor. Opens the slides, kitchen slide tore the pantry door off, poor design there. So back to dealer who did quick repairs to get us camping for the season and orders new cabinet and table (small scuffing from the crown molding) which they will replace when the winterize it.
The service manager at the dealer was very up front and honest. These trailers are built quickly and you will find issues with them. Most of the fixes at reputable dealerships are better than they were at the factory because they don't want you having a bad experience. The service manager told me to make a list of all the issues and bring them with the camper after the season is over, they will go thru them and fix them. So fare here are my issues: bathroom cabinet small crack at base, outside stereo speakers quit working, lincpad quit working, gutter above door coming lose, satellite hookup has no continuity, living room slide doesn't close flush, and kitchen fan flap broke. We have been out in it about 8 times, our first camper and love the family time.
On the contrary, I do not pull it with a HD truck. I do understand the overkill and one day will be able to afford another vehicle payment, but I am towing it with a 2010 Tundra Crewmax Platinum. The tow rating is 10,100 and gross on the trailer is 10,700. That being said, full of water and gear and everything food, etc in the trailer on the scale is 9900. So I still have room per manufacturer spec, however I did add airbags with onboard compressor to the truck and tow mirrors. If I am towing on smaller 60mph highways I don't use my weight distribution hitch. If I plan on hitting interstates, then I hitch up the wdh and sway bar. So far, no issues running 75mph all day long. I did have to change my WDH hitch setup once the airbags were installed because bag installation set the truck up 2 inches over factory, so had to adjust the head height to match the trailer when it was level. I also found my prodigyII brake controller wasn't setup properly, apparently there are different settings for the number of axles on my trailer, my advice for towing has always been go find a place who specializes in hitches and pay them to make sure yours is setup right. It's worth the piece of mind.

[alexleblanc]

Originally Posted by Justice191

I am with code1, we bought our 300bhs for the layout. Our purchase was in late July. We have two kids, it just seemed functional for the money, 28.5k from Holmans in Cincinnati area. First trip put, directly from the Dealer, I opened it up to find the crown molding from the living room slide out in the floor. Opens the slides, kitchen slide tore the pantry door off, poor design there. So back to dealer who did quick repairs to get us camping for the season and orders new cabinet and table (small scuffing from the crown molding) which they will replace when the winterize it.
The service manager at the dealer was very up front and honest. These trailers are built quickly and you will find issues with them. Most of the fixes at reputable dealerships are better than they were at the factory because they don't want you having a bad experience. The service manager told me to make a list of all the issues and bring them with the camper after the season is over, they will go thru them and fix them. So fare here are my issues: bathroom cabinet small crack at base, outside stereo speakers quit working, lincpad quit working, gutter above door coming lose, satellite hookup has no continuity, living room slide doesn't close flush, and kitchen fan flap broke. We have been out in it about 8 times, our first camper and love the family time.
On the contrary, I do not pull it with a HD truck. I do understand the overkill and one day will be able to afford another vehicle payment, but I am towing it with a 2010 Tundra Crewmax Platinum. The tow rating is 10,100 and gross on the trailer is 10,700. That being said, full of water and gear and everything food, etc in the trailer on the scale is 9900. So I still have room per manufacturer spec, however I did add airbags with onboard compressor to the truck and tow mirrors. If I am towing on smaller 60mph highways I don't use my weight distribution hitch. If I plan on hitting interstates, then I hitch up the wdh and sway bar. So far, no issues running 75mph all day long. I did have to change my WDH hitch setup once the airbags were installed because bag installation set the truck up 2 inches over factory, so had to adjust the head height to match the trailer when it was level. I also found my prodigyII brake controller wasn't setup properly, apparently there are different settings for the number of axles on my trailer, my advice for towing has always been go find a place who specializes in hitches and pay them to make sure yours is setup right. It's worth the piece of mind.

always use a WDH when towing a travel trailer - your receiver is only rated to 500lbs of tongue WT without a WDH IIRC so towing without it is just reckless.

Also, this size of TT really requires at least a proper 3/4 ton to tow comfortably.

[Code13]

Alex is right...check your actual hitch rating. There are different class types and most will require the use of WD in order to meet their max rating. There should be a sticker on the hitch itself or it will be stamped into the steel of the hitch - the part that is actually bolted on to yout row vehicle. The other biggest thing most owners overlook when towing is their truck payload. I seriously doubt you are meeting your listed truck payload once you hitch up and have all your people and gear loaded. There is a sticker located on the driver door frame that will tell you exactly what you are rated. Anything over that and you are unsafe and most likely causing excessive wear on your vehicle. Its one thing for your truck to be able to pull a certain weight but more importantly is if it can safely carry the weight its pulling i.e. its payload.

Link to a good article:

Toyota Tundra Towing Basics - What To Know Before You Tow | Tundra Headquarters Blog

[alexleblanc]

Originally Posted by Code13

Alex is right...check your actual hitch rating. There are different class types and most will require the use of WD in order to meet their max rating. There should be a sticker on the hitch itself or it will be stamped into the steel of the hitch - the part that is actually bolted on to yout row vehicle. The other biggest thing most owners overlook when towing is their truck payload. I seriously doubt you are meeting your listed truck payload once you hitch up and have all your people and gear loaded. There is a sticker located on the driver door frame that will tell you exactly what you are rated. Anything over that and you are unsafe and most likely causing excessive wear on your vehicle. Its one thing for your truck to be able to pull a certain weight but more importantly is if it can safely carry the weight its pulling i.e. its payload.

Link to a good article:

Toyota Tundra Towing Basics - What To Know Before You Tow | Tundra Headquarters Blog

good link.

I did the heavy towing with a very capable F150 - only took one trip to Boston for me to decided on upgrading to a proper sized truck for the TT we bought. for the record the F150 was rated to tow 11,200, had a payload rating for 1890lbs and had zero trouble power wise, but keeping a load that heavy with that much wind loading requires something heavier duty.

good


not good

[Code13]

Nice setup....I like the bike rack over the tanks.

[Justice191]

Thanks guys, yes I already had the dealership go over everything and the local truck place. I don't think I mentioned the 10ply tires, that's also a must. But yeah, I'm good at this point since the trucks paid off and I'm comfortable with it. I did fail to mention the 10 ply truck tires, that's also a must. Good forum.

[alexleblanc]

Originally Posted by Justice191

Thanks guys, yes I already had the dealership go over everything and the local truck place. I don't think I mentioned the 10ply tires, that's also a must. But yeah, I'm good at this point since the trucks paid off and I'm comfortable with it. I did fail to mention the 10 ply truck tires, that's also a must. Good forum.

10 ply tires help, but you're most likely still way over your GAWR and GVWR and its pretty much not a safe scenario.

[Code13]

I agree Alex. Also you can never increase the payload or tow rating by adding modifications such as air bags, leaf springs WD hitches etc. They will help bring a higher level of safety however the weak point is still the vehicle frame, axles, suspension and transmission that created the rating in the first place. What the sticker says on the door will always be what it is..... just use common sense when towing and remember it's not just your life you are gambling with but other families on the road.

[Justice191]

Alex and Code 13, according to what I have read and the dealership, no issues. According to the dealership, I do have the class V, not sure what trucks have what hitches. Also tongue weight changes depending on if you towing with full fresh water tanks, cargo loaded into TT correctly and such, which is always an issue and has to be correct. As I see on all forums, everyone has their own experience and own professionals who guide them. The dealership I purchased from sells over1700 TTs per year, so I do trust them when they went thru my truck and checked everything. That being said, it's also has to go on the driver's experience and ability in towing and what comfort level each of those give them.

[jlcollier1]

Here we are again, looking to make our purchase!
I am wondering if anybody knows whether the exterior of the 2016 is designed differently than the 2015?