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Old 10-31-2016, 07:34 PM   #1
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Stabilizer problems

We bought our 2017 wildwood 261bhxl from Holman rv in botavia Ohio and have had electrical problems out the wazoo ever since. When we first got there a ground was loose not allowing the awning and stabilizer jacks to work. Later on we had our awning lights and interior lights go out. Come to find out we had 9 grounds loose inside the TT. well after camping a couple weeks ago I went to drop the jacks and neither front nor back work. The front kicked on for a spilt second with the manual switch and have not done a thing since. Everything else is working fine and we've check the ground bus inside and ive checked all the fuses in the box and the inline fuse by the battery. We're at a loss now.
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:03 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Olrodg View Post
We bought our 2017 wildwood 261bhxl from Holman rv in botavia Ohio and have had electrical problems out the wazoo ever since. When we first got there a ground was loose not allowing the awning and stabilizer jacks to work. Later on we had our awning lights and interior lights go out. Cnome to find out we had 9 grounds loose inside the TT. well after camping a couple weeks ago I went to drop the jacks and neither front nor back work. The front kicked on for a spilt second with the manual switch and have not done a thing since. Everything else is working fine and we've check the ground bus inside and ive checked all the fuses in the box and the inline fuse by the battery. We're at a loss now.
Hi,
Just to confirm...
When do the jacks not work?
When on battery only?
When plugged into shore power?
When plugged into truck?
never?
Have you pulled the manual switch to make sure the wiring is tight?
Do you have a remote for the jacks?
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:32 PM   #3
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They don't work at all no matter what we've tried. I haven't tried to pull one of the switches out but I have trouble believing it's the switch due to the fact neither front nor rear work. Yes we have a remote for the jacks and awning. The awning still works fine on the remote.
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:06 AM   #4
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I had the SAME issue with my Wildwood 262. Turns out, there is a second install under the bottom bunk for the wireless remote that operate the awning, jacks, (& in my case, the slide-out). A 15 amp fuse blew in there. The first panel removed will expose the back of the fuse box (and where the shore power plug is). The last panel is how you get to the HW tank to winterize. The MIDDLE panel is where the remote wiring is. Since all the wiring for the add-on power jacks go through here, there is a fuse for the HARD wired jacks.
Good luck
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:41 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Discipline39 View Post
I had the SAME issue with my Wildwood 262. Turns out, there is a second install under the bottom bunk for the wireless remote that operate the awning, jacks, (& in my case, the slide-out). A 15 amp fuse blew in there. The first panel removed will expose the back of the fuse box (and where the shore power plug is). The last panel is how you get to the HW tank to winterize. The MIDDLE panel is where the remote wiring is. Since all the wiring for the add-on power jacks go through here, there is a fuse for the HARD wired jacks.
Good luck

Would this be the case if my awning still works with the remote and switch? It's just the jacks that are out.
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:12 AM   #6
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Also, the electric panel on our TT is under the fridge on the right side with all of the boards fuses and grounds combined in one and out bunks are on the left side (patio side) so I don't know if the fuse would still be under the bunk or under the fridge.
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:42 AM   #7
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Yes. Each item has its own circuit. I found it a little bizarre that it would work with the remote but not the hardwired end but that is the case. And it is not well marked. I pulled all the fuses and found the one blown. Replaced and voila, it worked. Both front and back jack motors are on the same fuse so only raise (or lower) one set at a time. The awning is on its own circuit as is the slide-out (if so equipped).
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:59 PM   #8
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Check the breakers on each stabilizer. Follow the power cable from each motor into the underbelly and you'll find them inside. My back stabilizer quit working and I found one lead on the breaker was loose. I tightened it up and it works fine now.
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:08 PM   #9
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My 2016 261BHXL has the outside kitchen so they put the fuse panel and remote control module under the fridge. I have not had these problems and we bought from Hollman motors too. I have however had to have both front and back stabilzer control switches. It seems to be a common problem for those to go bad. I know that his is not your issue but it is soemthing for you to look for in the future. I have plans to buy some type of cover to put over the switches to cover them from the rain. Has anybody experienced any of these issues. Plus after the switches were replaced it reversed the fron stabilizer on the remote only. I am still waiting on the shop to get some info from Lippert on how to fix that.
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Old 12-01-2016, 03:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by contourcrazy View Post
My 2016 261BHXL has the outside kitchen so they put the fuse panel and remote control module under the fridge. I have not had these problems and we bought from Hollman motors too. I have however had to have both front and back stabilzer control switches. It seems to be a common problem for those to go bad. I know that his is not your issue but it is soemthing for you to look for in the future. I have plans to buy some type of cover to put over the switches to cover them from the rain. Has anybody experienced any of these issues. Plus after the switches were replaced it reversed the fron stabilizer on the remote only. I am still waiting on the shop to get some info from Lippert on how to fix that.
I bought 3 small JR Product compartment boxes with doors and, as I have a mid-ship electric stabilizer, and put all switch in the compartment out of the elements....
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:23 PM   #11
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Also it's better to get auto reset fuses for the stab jacks so if it trips, it will automatically reset itself.
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:25 PM   #12
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X2.....forgot bout them...
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Old 01-30-2017, 11:51 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Olrodg View Post
Would this be the case if my awning still works with the remote and switch? It's just the jacks that are out.
My fuse box for the awning, slide, and jacks are under the fridge. I've had the same issue. For instance, if the awning works but my slide won't, one of the fuses are blown. I've learned they work in a line.
1. Awning 2. R. Jacks 3. F. Jacks 4. Slide
10 amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and 30 amp.

If the fuse for the R. Jacks (15 amp) is out then the F. Jacks and Slide won't work, but the awning will.

I hope that makes sense. Just take a look at those fuses and make sure none of them are blown.
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:19 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Seanmbarnes33 View Post
My fuse box for the awning, slide, and jacks are under the fridge. I've had the same issue. For instance, if the awning works but my slide won't, one of the fuses are blown. I've learned they work in a line.
1. Awning 2. R. Jacks 3. F. Jacks 4. Slide
10 amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and 30 amp.

If the fuse for the R. Jacks (15 amp) is out then the F. Jacks and Slide won't work, but the awning will.

I hope that makes sense. Just take a look at those fuses and make sure none of them are blown.
Something doesn't seem right here, perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you are saying.

If you're saying power goes through the 10 amp fuse, then the awning taps off, and goes through the 15 amp fuse and then the R. Jacks tap off, then through the 15 amp fuse and then the F. Jacks tap off, and then through the 30 amp fuse to the slide, then I'm confused. If this is true, then I can understand why the F. Jacks and slide won't work if the 15 amp fuse is blown.

But what I don't understand is if the slide pulls, say, 25 amps, why don't the 10, 15, and 20 amp fuses (through which the slide current must be flowing) blow every time you use the slide? Or if the F. Jacks pull, say 13 amps, why doesn't the 10 amp fuse blow when you use them?

Unless all 4 of these components pull less than 10 amps a piece (and are only used one at a time), I'm confused.
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:23 AM   #15
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I'm just stating what I'm looking at in my fuse box. It's not labeled in there however so I don't know which is which. I can't answer that for you. Sorry. I just know that 99.9% of the time if I'm using the remote and one of the items aren't working, it's one of those fuses. It's also usually caused by allowing the jacks to go up to high when closing up.
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Old 01-31-2017, 09:32 AM   #16
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Paint a stop line on them
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Old 02-07-2017, 04:05 PM   #17
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Paint a stop line on them
That's the best way if you don't know when to stop or if the wife or kids are putting them up.
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:29 AM   #18
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I bought 3 small JR Product compartment boxes with doors and, as I have a mid-ship electric stabilizer, and put all switch in the compartment out of the elements....
Any pictures?
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:47 AM   #19
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Any pictures?
See this thread from a couple days ago...
Electric Stabilizers Not Working
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:13 AM   #20
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