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02-03-2014, 03:49 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San jose
Posts: 95
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Wheel chocks
Hi everyone just picked up my 2014 wild wood 26btss what is everybody using for wheel chocks I know bal have x type do they work well
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02-03-2014, 04:41 PM
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#2
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Old Enough to Know Better
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Greenwood, In
Posts: 528
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Always, When I had my V-Cross I used wheel chocks. Now since the fiver is allot heavier I use an x chock I got from Northern they work real well.
__________________
Jim & Debbie England
Do you have Gas? 2015 F350 6.2L CCLB DRW 4.30 axle.
2020 Keystone Cougar 364BHL ,Gone 2012 Yellowstone Ridgeline 34RLT Fifth Wheel
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02-03-2014, 06:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 13,738
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I made my own for our last 3 campers. Links:
Homemade Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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02-03-2014, 06:43 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 325
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I use the xchocks and they work well.
__________________
Rick and Linda, Lindale, TX
2011 Flagstaff 8528 CKSS
2006 F350 SW
Camping nights 2013: 130
Camping nights 2014: 17
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02-03-2014, 07:48 PM
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#5
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Infractee
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 796
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X-Chocks work great! Not only for keeping the camper in one spot but to also help with it moving around while walking around inside.
Just be mindful of how much you use the tongue jack/ landing gear once they are installed, once locked down and you start rotating front of camper up or down it puts a lot of torsional stress on axles and frame. I like to use wheel chocks to hold it in place while leveling then lock it down with the X-Chocks once leveled out.
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02-03-2014, 08:26 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,947
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X Chocks are great...sometimes when we stop just for an overnight I don't bother using them but the DW always notices right away...they help alot with reducing inside movement.
Rick
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02-03-2014, 08:27 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San jose
Posts: 95
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Okay just ordered a set of the x chock from Amazon 2pack 78.00 bucks free shipping two days thanks everyone now the question orange leveling blocks or the yellow leveling blocks what your opinion
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02-03-2014, 08:45 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,947
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Orange ones...you coulda got a deal on those from amazon as well and had it delivered at same time...while you are at it, get the RhinoFlex sewer hose from amazon as well...a great sewer price and amazon has really good prices on those too.
Rick
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02-03-2014, 09:06 PM
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#9
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NELA
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,221
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Keep in mind that the x chocks aren't meant to hold the RV in place like regular wheel chocks. They're mainly for stabilization, as they state in the directions.
You'll need a good set of wheel chocks. We bought the larger rubber style wheel chocks with molded-in teeth on the bottoms of them. They're much more stable than the plastic type as the teeth grip gravel, asphalt, concrete, etc. Some have posted about the yellow or orange plastic wheel chocks collapsing/crushing and/or shooting out from under the edge of the wheels.
We found our rubber chocks at Harbor Freight. (thanks again for that info wmtire)
they're usually $7.99 each, but are often on sale for $5.00.
__________________
If age is a state of mind, and I've lost my mind, I'm AGELESS, right?
Give me 40 acres and I'll turn this rig around:
Flagstaff 5er 2014 8528 IKWS, Platinum Package, Regency Interior "Buffy"
F250 Super Duty 2013 Tuxedo Black "Biff"
Days camped 2014: 30
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02-03-2014, 09:39 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,947
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Weezer...I think the OP was referring to the orange or yellow levelling blocks. I agree with Weezer...you still need wheel chocks plus the X chocks. Like Weezer says...I have used the plastic wheel chocks in combination with Xchocks, the plastic wheel chocks are not very durable, and think I may look for something like Weezer suggests. The levelling blocks I was referring to were the Lynx levelling blocks..the orange ones that you can step/stack for levelling. You can get a 10 pack from Amazon reasonably priced and they come in a nice compact zip up bag for storing. very compact and lightweight to store. You may have to replace some of them every few years but they aren't that expensive from Amazon.
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02-03-2014, 09:53 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San jose
Posts: 95
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Yep went down to Harbor freight today and got the rubber wheel blocks and yes I was looking at the Link's orange ones they look pretty durable thanks for the info guys in San Jose California lots of Harbor freight's stores picking up the trailer this Sunday get a little nervous though big storm coming in Sunday when I have to drive up two hours to pick it up never towed anything that large
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02-03-2014, 09:58 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San jose
Posts: 95
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Plus I'm towing my 2013 Rockwood freedom pop up up there hope it doesn't rain too hard
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02-03-2014, 10:46 PM
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#13
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Have used BAL X-Chocks for 6 years on an 08 Flagstaff 831RLSS and now on a 12 Flagstaff 8528RKWS 5er. They lock the tires so good I use them to do the pull test on the hitch. Trailer will not move if you tighten them enough. Have never had one come loose and I install them as the very first thing when camping and the very last thing removed when leaving. Even with the tires hot from towing, I've never had one loosen.
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02-03-2014, 10:58 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Space Coast of Florida
Posts: 4,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhoZeta
.....Just be mindful of how much you use the tongue jack/ landing gear once they are installed, once locked down and you start rotating front of camper up or down it puts a lot of torsional stress on axles and frame....
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RhoZeta, Why would that be? When I put wheel checks in place the wheels don't move when I lower or raise my trailer... Why would x-checks be different besides the fact lock the wheels are more firmly locked in place. They don't lock the axle? And the axle is on a spring or torsion bar so should they not still move.
I have wondered about this but am not an expert by any means. Thanks for any thought on this issue.
__________________
2016 Siverback 33IK, Towed 50K+ mile
2018 Ford F-350 Lariat 6.7L V8 Diesel 4WD Crew Cab
"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there."
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02-03-2014, 11:47 PM
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#15
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Infractee
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalford
RhoZeta, Why would that be? When I put wheel checks in place the wheels don't move when I lower or raise my trailer... Why would x-checks be different besides the fact lock the wheels are more firmly locked in place. They don't lock the axle? And the axle is on a spring or torsion bar so should they not still move.
I have wondered about this but am not an expert by any means. Thanks for any thought on this issue.
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Exactly! The wheels do not move, next time you get a chance have somebody raise/lower the tongue while you look at the wheels without the X chocks in place and watch how much they turn while camper is moving up and down, when locked against each other they no longer turn and try to force the axles and subsequently the frame to twist. If all the chocks did was affect the wheels/tires then they would not be useful to us, because they force the axles and frame to be rigid due to locking the two tires together it helps to keep the trailer taught while walking around inside.
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02-04-2014, 12:09 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Space Coast of Florida
Posts: 4,024
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Thanks RhoZeta, I will have to look at the wheel movement. I guess I wonder how much stress this applies to the axle but maybe it is just easier to throw the chocks in place while uncoupling from the trailer and leveling and then apply the x-chocks....
__________________
2016 Siverback 33IK, Towed 50K+ mile
2018 Ford F-350 Lariat 6.7L V8 Diesel 4WD Crew Cab
"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there."
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02-04-2014, 01:14 AM
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#17
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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Wheel chocks
Preferred method:
1) Use levelling blocks/boards to level side to side.
2) chock with wedges.
3) Unhook from truck, level front to back.
4) Install X-chocks
5) Put out slide
6) Reconfirm everything level, tweak as necessary
7) Put down stabilizers
8) Hookup power, water, sewer.
9) Turn on HW
10) Put out awning, outdoor carpet, get out camp chairs.
11) Relax with cold brew.
Usual method
1) Screw it, it's level enough, chock with wedges
2) Unhook from truck, get front to back close enough.
3) Put out slide so DW can get kids ready for bed.
4) Hook up power/ water so kids can get ready for bed.
5) Pull out chairs, carpet etc... so bunk can be folded down so kids can go to bed. Chairs get dumped in a pile.
6) put down stabilizers in response to DW complaining the trailers too shaky. Stabs throw level off even further but slows down shake.
7) run and hide from wife on backside of trailer doing "that dang outdoor stuff." I.e. The rest of the hookups.
8) Install X-chocks cramped under slide out in the dark, and of course in the mud puddle, though it's been a drought for 3 weeks.
9) go inside, go to bed.
10) get up from bed, go back outside and turn on HW.
11) take dog for walk "since I'm up anyways" though I'd rather just crawl back into bed.
12) crash in bed
13) get up in morning and fix it all.
__________________
There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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02-04-2014, 07:39 AM
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#18
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chicagoslick
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Indianapolis Area
Posts: 198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaadk
Preferred method:
1) Use levelling blocks/boards to level side to side.
2) chock with wedges.
3) Unhook from truck, level front to back.
4) Install X-chocks
5) Put out slide
6) Reconfirm everything level, tweak as necessary
7) Put down stabilizers
8) Hookup power, water, sewer.
9) Turn on HW
10) Put out awning, outdoor carpet, get out camp chairs.
11) Relax with cold brew.
Usual method
1) Screw it, it's level enough, chock with wedges
2) Unhook from truck, get front to back close enough.
3) Put out slide so DW can get kids ready for bed.
4) Hook up power/ water so kids can get ready for bed.
5) Pull out chairs, carpet etc... so bunk can be folded down so kids can go to bed. Chairs get dumped in a pile.
6) put down stabilizers in response to DW complaining the trailers too shaky. Stabs throw level off even further but slows down shake.
7) run and hide from wife on backside of trailer doing "that dang outdoor stuff." I.e. The rest of the hookups.
8) Install X-chocks cramped under slide out in the dark, and of course in the mud puddle, though it's been a drought for 3 weeks.
9) go inside, go to bed.
10) get up from bed, go back outside and turn on HW.
11) take dog for walk "since I'm up anyways" though I'd rather just crawl back into bed.
12) crash in bed
13) get up in morning and fix it all.
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Nice...That is way too funny...
__________________
Gary, Tonia, Baile, Summer and Otis our Boston T.
Flagstaff 27RLWS Emerald Pkg
2015 Ford F150 King Ranch FX4 Max Tow 3.5EB, 3.55
Equalizer 4 WDH, 1,200 / 12,000Lbs
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02-04-2014, 07:44 AM
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#19
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NELA
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,221
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Yep, commonly referred to as "legos". I was just adding to the needed equipment for preventing roll aways. There's been much discussion here on the forum regarding the x chocks and whether or not they're for reduced movement while inside the RV, or were they manufactured to keep the RV from rolling.
We don't trust 'em for total prevention of movement, thus the mention of the heavy rubber wheel chocks.
__________________
If age is a state of mind, and I've lost my mind, I'm AGELESS, right?
Give me 40 acres and I'll turn this rig around:
Flagstaff 5er 2014 8528 IKWS, Platinum Package, Regency Interior "Buffy"
F250 Super Duty 2013 Tuxedo Black "Biff"
Days camped 2014: 30
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02-04-2014, 10:28 AM
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#20
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Phat Phrog Stunt Crew
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upper Penisula Michigan / Arizona
Posts: 2,767
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I have wide spaced axles on my TT so the standard X blocks didn't work. So I made my own set of X blocks.
__________________
Ed & Ruthann / Toby and Tucker
2014 GMC Sierra Crewcab 2500 Duramax
2014 Wildcat 327ck
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