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Old 09-05-2017, 09:37 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by spurticus View Post
I spoke this morning with the service manager at the dealership. He advised they were going to do the following:

-Replace the rim and tire that came off.
-Replace the tire that carried the load by itself after the other tire came off.
-Replace all of the studs on all of the drums.
-Replace the fender skirt.

I am pleased and glad they are taking immediate action.
That's great news.
It's a shame it had to happen but a +1 to the dealership for standing tall and making this right.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:41 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by spurticus View Post
I spoke this morning with the service manager at the dealership. He advised they were going to do the following:

-Replace the rim and tire that came off.
-Replace the tire that carried the load by itself after the other tire came off.
-Replace all of the studs on all of the drums.
-Replace the fender skirt.

I am pleased and glad they are taking immediate action.
Great outcome,Thanks for coming back with the end result! Youroo!!
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:43 AM   #63
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Can you post the name and location of the dealer? I would take my business to him if I was ever in the area.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:47 AM   #64
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Can you post the name and location of the dealer? I would take my business to him if I was ever in the area.
You must "Remember the Issue Started with this Dealer"! Youroo!!
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:47 AM   #65
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Did the dealer address what caused the loss of the wheel?

Just being curious. I think the dealership behaved in an upstanding manner. Kudos to them.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:50 AM   #66
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Did the dealer address what caused the loss of the wheel?

Just being curious. I think the dealership behaved in an upstanding manner. Kudos to them.
Without the Wheel the Dealer is just "Guessing like Us"! Youroo!!
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Old 09-05-2017, 10:49 AM   #67
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The Good:
The service department provided for a onside road repair and want to followup further on the failure.

The Bad:
Very difficult to tell from a picture, but the stud in the bottom right corner (aprox 5 o'clock position) looks as if it could have had a existing stress crack. Hence the abundance of the brown color, (possibly the start of oxidation). There is very little shiny metal, indicating the current break. This could have been the start of th entire fiasco. One stud snapping and then the cascading failure of the rest.

The Ugly:
There is really no Ugly here but there certaintly could easily have been.
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Old 09-05-2017, 11:15 AM   #68
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Almost same story, except mine was a wheel bearing that got hot and caught fire. I was luckier as a good samaritan flagged me down and I got to pull over and extinguish the flames. Wheel was 2-3 inches off the brake backing plate headed for freedom. I'd stopped to check bearings with IR temp gauge 40 miles prior and everything was OK. Glad you weas re able to get off highway without incident and your dealer made good. Haven't crossed that bridge with mine yet as 5er still sits in Winona waiting for new axle from Lippert. If you have to break down on I-90 near Winona MN, get to Jim's Truck and Coachworks. Awesome place and great people. Axle will take two weeks, so we bought a tent and went on. Pick it up on the return.
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Old 09-05-2017, 07:39 PM   #69
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With a Masters Degree in Mechanical Engineering from Stanford, and a 38-year career in the design, manufacture, testing, and deployment of complex mechanical systems, plus nearly 40 years of RV camping experience, please forgive me for putting in my two cents on this issue.


1. The wheel/tire assembly is bolted to the carrier (drum or disc carrier) with 5, 6, or 8 threaded lugs with the same number of lug nuts.


2. The mechanical stiffness of the wheel carrier is much higher than the mechanical stiffness of the lugs and lug nuts.


3. The wheel/tire assembly is in contact with the road, and is subject to deflections and load changes while the vehicle is travelling down the road.


4. The dynamic forces of these deflections are transmitted to the wheel carrier by the seated back of the wheel itself, and not by the lugs and lug nuts alone.


5. Any deflections of the stiff wheel/carrier assembly, when properly seated, will show up on the relatively flexible lugs as very small stress variations. High levels of stress variations cause fatigue and failure.


6. This is why the wheel lugs should be torqued to the recommended values as this stiffens the entire wheel/carrier assembly and isolates the lugs from damaging stress variations.


7. This is also why each and every lug nut should be properly torqued so that all share the static and dynamic loads equally. A single loose lug nut can result in the loss of a wheel/tire.


8. Always check the torque on every lug nut on every wheel before embarking on a trip. It takes only a few minutes, and it is good exercise!!


9. Always follow a tightening pattern that resembles a 5, 6, or 8-pointed star. Do not simply go around the tire rim from #1 to #5, 6, or whatever. We call this "chasing a gasket".


10. Always torque lug nuts while the RV is planted firmly on the ground. Tires are so much more flexible than wheel/carrier assemblies that they will have no appreciable effect on lug nut torque.


Thank you for your patience.
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:52 PM   #70
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Heck I worked in a Filling Station for a few months and seen the results of loose lug nuts,the Wheel had 5 "Wallered Out Holes",another guy came in and complained his car was "Shaking",his son had put all the lug nuts on "Backwards"! Or the time we were at the F/R Factory and a Delivery driver came in the bay and said,I think someone put the "Wheel on Backwards" It was! Youroo!!
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:31 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by rovinglion View Post
Almost same story, except mine was a wheel bearing that got hot and caught fire. I was luckier as a good samaritan flagged me down and I got to pull over and extinguish the flames. Wheel was 2-3 inches off the brake backing plate headed for freedom. I'd stopped to check bearings with IR temp gauge 40 miles prior and everything was OK. Glad you weas re able to get off highway without incident and your dealer made good. Haven't crossed that bridge with mine yet as 5er still sits in Winona waiting for new axle from Lippert. If you have to break down on I-90 near Winona MN, get to Jim's Truck and Coachworks. Awesome place and great people. Axle will take two weeks, so we bought a tent and went on. Pick it up on the return.
A TPMS with Temperature monitoring might have warned you before it got that bad. I had a brake that was heating the drum up and the TPMS showed that wheel/tire getting hotter than the rest and the PSI higher than the rest. Pulled over and the IR temperature gun showed that wheel at 280 degrees while all the rest were around 85 degrees.
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Old 09-06-2017, 05:44 AM   #72
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Jackie Boy- Sure, that is the way it supposed to work, but it is interesting why the RV industry has so many problems compared to vehicle? Something smells afoul to me. It might be maintenance trade that hasn't the quality standards as compared to vehicles? I do think the regs and design standards of trailer are below that of commercial vehicles. Also, crude suspension and torque turning will stress TT tires more. They are smaller and carry more load and probably exhibit more shock upon axle hub. There may be some harmful maintenance practices i.e. hand torque to yield and sloppy workmanship such as forgetting the final torque or cross threading.
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Old 09-06-2017, 07:32 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Jakie-Boy View Post
With a Masters Degree in Mechanical Engineering from Stanford, and a 38-year career in the design, manufacture, testing, and deployment of complex mechanical systems, plus nearly 40 years of RV camping experience, please forgive me for putting in my two cents on this issue.


1. The wheel/tire assembly is bolted to the carrier (drum or disc carrier) with 5, 6, or 8 threaded lugs with the same number of lug nuts.


2. The mechanical stiffness of the wheel carrier is much higher than the mechanical stiffness of the lugs and lug nuts.


3. The wheel/tire assembly is in contact with the road, and is subject to deflections and load changes while the vehicle is travelling down the road.


4. The dynamic forces of these deflections are transmitted to the wheel carrier by the seated back of the wheel itself, and not by the lugs and lug nuts alone.


5. Any deflections of the stiff wheel/carrier assembly, when properly seated, will show up on the relatively flexible lugs as very small stress variations. High levels of stress variations cause fatigue and failure.


6. This is why the wheel lugs should be torqued to the recommended values as this stiffens the entire wheel/carrier assembly and isolates the lugs from damaging stress variations.


7. This is also why each and every lug nut should be properly torqued so that all share the static and dynamic loads equally. A single loose lug nut can result in the loss of a wheel/tire.


8. Always check the torque on every lug nut on every wheel before embarking on a trip. It takes only a few minutes, and it is good exercise!!


9. Always follow a tightening pattern that resembles a 5, 6, or 8-pointed star. Do not simply go around the tire rim from #1 to #5, 6, or whatever. We call this "chasing a gasket".


10. Always torque lug nuts while the RV is planted firmly on the ground. Tires are so much more flexible than wheel/carrier assemblies that they will have no appreciable effect on lug nut torque.


Thank you for your patience.


^^^^^ what he said!!!
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:13 PM   #74
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A. TPMS Would do nothing in this case or in most cases of a sudden blowout. Only slow loss of pressure would have alarmed. Eventually the monitor would have noticed a missing signal. While TPMS's are nice to have, they are not a panacea for all problems and no substitute for all the normal inspections.

B. I had it happen on a boattrailer once, and it was undertorqueing. If it is over torque, then one of the bolts would have broken first and you would have seen it if you inspect the rig daily. Under torqued allows the wheel to move around until it begins to shear bolts and bingo it is gone.
That's why you buy a tpms that monitors temperature as well as tire pressure.

Or if no temperature monitor, every stop put the back of your hand against the hub. If you can't hold it there for a count of 10, then that wheel needs attention because something is wrong.

This will catch lack of grease or axle nut too tight. Not sure it would help if the lugs weren't torqued properly.
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:40 PM   #75
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I imagine a hub centric wheel could help to eliminate this problem by placing some weight on the hub vice the lugs.
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:47 PM   #76
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I imagine a hub centric wheel could help to eliminate this problem by placing some weight on the hub vice the lugs.
Thoughts?
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Old 09-06-2017, 07:00 PM   #77
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Regardless of whether the wheel/hub assembly is "hub centric" or other, bolting the wheel to the hub with the proper amount of torque will isolate the studs from the variations in cyclic stress that cause fatigue failure. With the wheel firmly connected to the hub, it will act as a singular structural unit.
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:58 AM   #78
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Regardless of whether the wheel/hub assembly is "hub centric" or other, bolting the wheel to the hub with the proper amount of torque will isolate the studs from the variations in cyclic stress that cause fatigue failure. With the wheel firmly connected to the hub, it will act as a singular structural unit.
Any rotating mass will be stronger and less apt to locator problems if a Hub shoulder is used, Not just depending on fasteners for retainment and location! Youroo!!
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Old 09-09-2017, 08:31 PM   #79
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Never saw a thing, felt the bump. Thought a blow out. Wrong!!
5 hour delay before leaving it sitting on the side of I-73/74N for 2 days until we could limp it to a repair shop. 5 weeks now waiting on insurance, parts, etc. New axle, new tires x2.
Hopefully back in 6 weeks. Halloween camping trip end of October.
One of two new axles. This was the damaged axle. 5k rated to 6k rated. All new wet bolts going in this week. They were compromised and loose. So bite the bullet and go all new wet bolt kit all the way around. Progress Being made..still mid October for total repair.
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Old 09-11-2017, 04:52 AM   #80
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I had this happen once when the dealer greased the bearings and forgot to put the cotter pin back in on one of the spindle nuts. It took two trips for the nut to back off and the wheel and drum both came loose. After that experience I always double check any dealer maintenance work done on the trailer. I can't tell you how many times I have found things not done properly by the dealer. I mostly do my own work now that the warranty has expired.
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