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Old 02-28-2012, 07:57 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Broker777 View Post
Thank you. I will pick this up from Amazon. Just to make sure I understand; which battery terminal gets wired to this switch? Is it the positive terminal, or the negative?

Thanks!
there is alot of debate on which terminal but like the other's have said - Positive terminal

See what size you have on the trailer now - it is either 8 or 10 gauge most likely and go one size bigger (the lower the number the bigger or heavier the gauge wire)

so if you are running 10 gauge or 10ga - get 8 Gauge or 8ga
if it is 8 gauge then get 6 gauge wire.

When I added my single disconnect I bought the wire at Home Depot off there Rack and bought the connectors and heat shrink there as well,
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:26 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by sherdep
so if you are running 10 gauge or 10ga - get 8 Gauge or 8ga
if it is 8 gauge then get 6 gauge wire.
I think I have some extra 6 ga wire around. In this case the bigger the better, right? So 4 ga would work too?

Also, I am thinking of installing one of these http://www.amazon.com/Volt-Meter-Dig...=3O6S9YI5YB6LM amp/volt meters on each of the batteries to see when each are charged and how much. Does anyone have experience with anything like this?

Thanks.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:44 AM   #23
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Also, I am thinking of installing one of these Amazon.com: Volt Meter/DC Digital LED Amp Volt Meter + Shunt /200V 200A /Blue: Home Improvement amp/volt meters on each of the batteries to see when each are charged and how much. Does anyone have experience with anything like this?

Thanks.
Its a good idea to use something like that in addition to a multimeter.

I currently use a good multimeter to check my batteries, but also use an Equus for a quick check when I don't want to use the MM. Its cheap at $15 and is fairly accurate although very basic.



I've considered installing a TriMetric, which I have seen used on this forum by other members. Its Very Nice, but expensive at $160.



FWIW - Every trailer owner needs to carry a multimeter and know how to use it regardless of these other tools. A good multimeter is a necessity with trailers to diagnose any of the many electrical issues that can and will come up over time.
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:09 PM   #24
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I currently use a good multimeter to check my batteries, but also use an Equus for a quick check when I don't want to use the MM.
I just picked one of these up on Amazon the other day too.

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I've considered installing a TriMetric, which I have seen used on this forum by other members. Its Very Nice, but expensive at $160.
I agree. This looks very nice and has great features, including the deep analysis of the battery, but too large of an expense at this time.

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FWIW - Every trailer owner needs to carry a multimeter and know how to use it regardless of these other tools. A good multimeter is a necessity with trailers to diagnose any of the many electrical issues that can and will come up over time.
So true. I'm picking up another one today to have one in the TT and one at the house.

Thanks again for the great advice.
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:52 PM   #25
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I think I have some extra 6 ga wire around. In this case the bigger the better, right? So 4 ga would work too?

Also, I am thinking of installing one of these Amazon.com: Volt Meter/DC Digital LED Amp Volt Meter + Shunt /200V 200A /Blue: Home Improvement amp/volt meters on each of the batteries to see when each are charged and how much. Does anyone have experience with anything like this?

Thanks.
If you have it laying around I dont see why you couldnt use it even though it is a bit of overkill.

Verify what you have on the trailer first and then figure out what size you need - I think it cost me all of about $10.00 at the most for the wire I used and still had extra left over
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:28 PM   #26
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Drawing of proposed Dual Battery Set-up

Guys,

Hopefully you can tell me if I'm on the right track or not.

From the advice I have gotten here I have drawn a simple diagram of how I propose to hook up my new battery set-up.

Can you please take a look and comment to make sure nothing looks funny (other than the flooded/AGM set-up...I know).

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:37 PM   #27
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Looks about right but I think you need to be able to turn the volt / amp meter's off or they will drain the battery or batteries

If it was me I would only use one volt / amp meter and when you switch to each individual battery you will get your reading and cost you less as well - just my .02

I would have to see what volt / amp meter you are intending to buy to be able to give you better idea on the wiring though
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:03 PM   #28
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Looks about right but I think you need to be able to turn the volt / amp meter's off or they will drain the battery or batteries

If it was me I would only use one volt / amp meter and when you switch to each individual battery you will get your reading and cost you less as well - just my .02
I totally agree. I would love to put one of the volt/amp meters next to the battery switch, but I am not sure how to contect the negative lead.

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I would have to see what volt / amp meter you are intending to buy to be able to give you better idea on the wiring though
Here is the volt/amp meter I'm looking to get:

Amazon.com: Volt Meter/DC Digital LED Amp Volt Meter + Shunt /200V 200A /Blue: Home Improvement

It seems pretty simple: posative lead, one lead on one side of the shut, and another lead on the the other side of the shut.

Any thoughts?
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:37 PM   #29
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Thanks for the suggestion rkswyo.

I think after looking into this that I am going to add an AGM battery inside the TT; currently looking at the Optima Blue-Tops.

One question for any of you that may know:

Our trailer has the WFCO 8955 Converter/Charger. It a 3-stage charger with bulk, absorption, and float modes; 14.4V, 13.6V, and 13.2V respectively. We boondock quite a bit and want to have extra power since on the cold nights with the DW and kids and furnace on, I wake up to a battery that is around 50%.

We currently have the Interstate DP-24 (Group 24) battery, and I want to buy an Optima group 31 AGM battery to wire in parallel with the existing battery.

I know I've read how some people say you MUST have the exact same battery Wired in parallel, and others who said it wasn't a big deal.

Now to my question: can this stock converter I have charge by the lead acid battery I have now AND the AGM battery I am planning to add, if they are wired in parallel?

Thanks in advance!

Broker, I hope I'm not too late with my 2 cents worth but, research your converter thoroughly. Make sure it is capable of handling charge rates of an AGM battery. I work at a large chain auto parts store and we have to change our charger/testers to the AGM setting for proper charging of these batteries.
Good luck with your project and keep us posted.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:49 PM   #30
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Make sure it is capable of handling charge rates of an AGM battery.
Thanks rracer5. Good call; I have the WFCO 8955 Converter/Charger, and I've been looking all around the web for any way to 'switch' modes from 'Flooded', 'AGM, or 'Gel', but can't find anything. I am going to call the Cheng USA tomorrow to verify.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:46 PM   #31
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Thanks rracer5. Good call; I have the WFCO 8955 Converter/Charger, and I've been looking all around the web for any way to 'switch' modes from 'Flooded', 'AGM, or 'Gel', but can't find anything. I am going to call the Cheng USA tomorrow to verify.
you have the same converter I have in my trailer - it will charge Gel batteries as well as "Flooded"

the issue you may run into is charging them together - IE Flooded and Gel at the same time
If you install the Blue Seas switch that allows you to select each battery and charge them seperate I would think you would be ok that way but not sure on charging the Flooded and Gel together.
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:23 PM   #32
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you have the same converter I have in my trailer - it will charge Gel batteries as well as "Flooded" the issue you may run into is charging them together - IE Flooded and Gel at the same time
Thanks Sherdep. I called the manufacter of the WF-8955PEC and confirmed that they do not have any sort of 'toggle' to switch from flooded/gell/AGM, however he did reiterate that I should not either use both batteries at the same time, or charge both batteries at the same time.

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If you install the Blue Seas switch that allows you to select each battery and charge them seperate I would think you would be ok that way but not sure on charging the Flooded and Gel together.
I am absolutely getting the Blue Seas switch to separate the batteries. Now I am also considering getting 2 of the AGM's, and wire them as the 1st battery bank, and leaving the flooded battery as a backup battery. Now I just have to convince my wife.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:15 PM   #33
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Good Luck with that on trying to convince the wife

If you were close to me - I know where I could possibly get you a set of Gel Batteries Cheap that are slightly used but work great or I have my old "but new" flooded battery sitting on my porch wasting away
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:12 PM   #34
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Apologies for resurrecting a dated thread but I have the same mount as the OP and found that I had enough room (just barely) when I mounted my two 6v batteries without the boxes. They are a little more exposed to the elements but they seem to be holding up well. When we are parked we just tent them with a little bit of tarp material...
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:50 PM   #35
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Apologies for resurrecting a dated thread but I have the same mount as the OP and found that I had enough room (just barely) when I mounted my two 6v batteries without the boxes. They are a little more exposed to the elements but they seem to be holding up well. When we are parked we just tent them with a little bit of tarp material...
No worries on the resurection

I had to cut the handles off the battery box to fit them in the tray and then the tops were off set so I didnt have to worry about cutting the top's too.
Might be worth a shot to see if the smaller battery boxes will fit with the handle's are cut off
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:55 PM   #36
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No worries on the resurection

I had to cut the handles off the battery box to fit them in the tray and then the tops were off set so I didnt have to worry about cutting the top's too.
Might be worth a shot to see if the smaller battery boxes will fit with the handle's are cut off

Great idea! I'm just about to put the batteries back on and will dig out the boxes and take the oscillating tool to them.
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:37 PM   #37
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I have the same trailer and configuration. I to am planning on adding a second battery (a must for boondocking). Your last post was quite some time ago, did you get it mounted?
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:03 PM   #38
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Apologies for resurrecting a dated thread but I have the same mount as the OP and found that I had enough room (just barely) when I mounted my two 6v batteries without the boxes. They are a little more exposed to the elements but they seem to be holding up well. When we are parked we just tent them with a little bit of tarp material...
I too apologize, but I am brainstorming ideas to get two batteries so I can do some dry camping in the mountains near my home. I was thinking modifying the battery shelf in order mount the batteries sideways. I have not actually measured the space, but from looking I think it may be possible. Anyone have any feedback on this approch?
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:40 PM   #39
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We have 2 6 volt batteries mounted end for end in the factory location on our Wildwood X-lite. The dealer modified the WDH chain brackets to still allow for the proper chain angle. 2 batteries definitly increases the capacity! Have dry camped for 3 days with the batteries only dropping to 2/3 on the monitor.
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:01 PM   #40
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two batteries

I believe I read this post or one very similar before I bought my 2011 Wildwood 26BHXL and solved it, able to have two industrial 12vt batteries. The need of two big batteries was a must, I love to dry camp away from the many, not so much the wife she’ld like a shower every day.
Back to installing two batteries: I cut out the original battery frame and carefully removed the double propane tank base. I then built(welded) a battery frame 4 inches lower than the campers “A” frame and several inches further back(this still keeps everything above lowest point of tongue jack). To fit both batteries they had to go, slightly, under the propane base so it was raised 4 inches and it partially covers battery-1 by 2 inches. Now I designed it so the covers of both batteries can still be removed with little interference. Also when I need to get both batteries out I take battery-2 up and out, slide battery-1 back to where battery-2 was and it’ll come out. The propane tanks did not move font to back just up, the propane line was sufficiently long but it is something to be aware of. Propane tanks could not be moved further forward do to the interference with the tanks cover and tongue jack.
I cant find my pics but will take new ones and post again
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