WILDWOOD 22RBXL winterize

chuck9997 · 02-07-2012, 08:30 AM

Looking at a few nights into the 20s here in Tennessee. Gonna winterize the camper, just in case..

Its always fun finding and figuring out what the manufacturer did (or didn't do) to make your job harder! (LOL)

Its a 2010 WILDWOOD 22RBXL (newer ones are probably a little different). Have located the fresh water tank and the pump.. Its all up under the front queen bed. all the way to the front. Almost not accessible. I had to take apart the bed frame to even see the tank and pump. I was looking for the clear tube and valves (for winterizing) like the ones on my JAYCO. They aren't there. The line goes directly from the fresh water tank to the pump.. and it is a very, very small space. Can't get my hands in there to even disconnect the line.. much less get a jug of antifreeze anywhere close to the pump.

After that.. I decided to read the owners manual (almost useless). It says to: "fill the tank above minimum water pump operation level with RV antifreeze. (Use of a long funnel may be helpful)"

I guess they are talking about actually putting the antifreeze in through the outside fresh water fill access. Thats makes sense because the pump and fresh water tank are really a pain in the butt to access.

Does anyone know what the "minimum water pump operation level" would be.. I don't mind spending a few dollars and buying 3 or 4 gallons of antifreeze.. surely they don't expect me to put 10 or 15 gallons of anti freeze in there?

chuck9997 · 02-07-2012, 08:40 AM

read a little more in the owners manual..

for De-winterizing.. it says: Attach a garden hose to the fresh water fill.. and fill the tank. Turn ON pump and open all faucets until the water runs clear. (no pink residue).

So I guess that's to flush out any RV antifreeze that remains in the tank. So they really do mean to put it in the tank.. But still,.. I wonder how much?

LadyWindrider · 02-07-2012, 10:33 AM

Wish I knew exactly where you low point drains were. The fresh water tank on a Wildwood is often between the axles. The low point drains are usually near the bathroom, between the bath and kitchen. Just have to look under the trailer till you find them. They will be near the edge, so you won't have to crawl under.

chuck9997 · 02-07-2012, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windrider

Wish I knew exactly where you low point drains were. The fresh water tank on a Wildwood is often between the axles. The low point drains are usually near the bathroom, between the bath and kitchen. Just have to look under the trailer till you find them. They will be near the edge, so you won't have to crawl under.

thanks.. but I wasn't asking about low point drains here.. that was another thread.

shabbona north · 02-07-2012, 05:52 PM

Chuck if you disconnect the inlet hose at the pump install a longer temparary hose, incert that hose in your antifrezze jug you can by bypass the tank altogather. If your tank has no drain make sure you install a gal in it. I installed a T fitting and hose in my inlet hose to make it easyer to winterize

TURBS · 02-07-2012, 06:24 PM

surely thats what it takes to get to minimum !
I have seen up to 13 to 14 gallons to even begin to get pump to suck antifreeze .
I would make an access panel in your bed frame than make a door with hinges to access your pump and lines .
install a tee fitting shut off in your suction line so that next time you just have to turn the fitting and done .

chuck9997 · 02-07-2012, 07:29 PM

it took five gallons to get the pump to start pulling antifreeze into the lines. I am gonna look at fixing this problem.. but for now ..its winterized.

I put the bed frame back together. It really is not a good access point. I could see the pump under the bed.. but couldn't get to it.

However.. there is a small storage compartment right over the pump. the compartment door is on the outside. I think I can maybe get to the pump and lines pretty easy by taking the bottom out of that compartment. It seems its just a piece of plywood (about 24 in X 12 in) attached with wood screws. I think I can remove it.. maybe put hinges on it, so I can make winterizing easier.

TURBS · 02-07-2012, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuck9997

it took five gallons to get the pump to start pulling antifreeze into the lines. I am gonna look at fixing this problem.. but for now ..its winterized.

I put the bed frame back together. It really is not a good access point. I could see the pump under the bed.. but couldn't get to it.

However.. there is a small storage compartment right over the pump. the compartment door is on the outside. I think I can maybe get to the pump and lines pretty easy by taking the bottom out of that compartment. It seems its just a piece of plywood (about 24 in X 12 in) attached with wood screws. I think I can remove it.. maybe put hinges on it, so I can make winterizing easier.

not only that but then you don't have to take the time to sanitize your tank every year .
good luck !
let us know how you did it and how it went ! pictures are always good

chuck9997 · 02-11-2012, 07:10 PM

I was able to remove the floor panel in the storage compartment and access the pump. I have ordered one of the pump converter kits (by Camco). I will install it for future use.

I doubt that the hose (included) will be long enough to reach from the pump up and out of the compartment.. and then down into a gallon jug of anti-freeze. What type of hose is used.. can I buy a longer one? or patch together two?

shabbona north · 02-11-2012, 07:33 PM

Ace Hardware has a good selection of hoses, any flexible plastic hose will work. Bring a sample with you so you get the right size.

rracer5 · 02-13-2012, 02:01 PM

Had the same problem with my 2009 Wildwood. No suction hose on the pump and no low point drains. I had to put 7 gallons of RV antifreeze in the tank for the pump to pick it up, and that was with the TT leaning 5 to 6 degrees towards the pump side. I think it all comes down to the assembler who installed the pump and line into the tank. How far from the bottom of the tank did he install it is a big variable.

By the time I was done, I had used 9 1/2 gallons!

Now, my new Lacrosse has the extra line on the pump that I just stick into the gallon of antifreeze. So, 2 1/2 to 3 gallons (probably overkill but, I want to make sure all lines are full) later and 15 minutes and I'm done!

I think installing the conversion kit is well worth the money, aggravation and time saving it saves you. That will leave you more time for

chuck9997 · 02-24-2012, 07:34 AM

UPDATE:
I installed the pump converter kit last weekend.. As usual.. any "easy" project offers it's challenges.

First.. I had to run to ACE HARDWARE to get the longer hose. Because of the position of the water pump in my camper, the piece, included with the kit.. just wasn't long enough. I actually purchased a piece of hose at ACE.. then bought a little hose coupler apparatus, two small hose clamps.. and added the new hose to the original. That way I had the original "screw on" connection to attach to the "T" valve. Now I can set the AF jug on the ground, outside the camper.. and the hose runs into the storage compartment and down to the pump.

The people who built this RV must have looked for the smallest, most hard to get to place, to mount the water pump. I had to do most of the work with one hand. I could only fit my upper body and one arm at a time through the small storage door opening.

then.. the pump was mounted at an angle that prohibited attaching the "T" valve to the inlet side.. so I had to remove all the mounting screws and turn the angle of the pump.

Anyway... it's done now and should save me a considerable amount of time when winterizing.. and 2 gallons, or less, of antifreeze should do the job.

thanks for the comments.

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