Wildwood 272RL Power questions

iceclimber · 03-13-2018, 11:23 AM

Hello all, wanted to get some suggestions;

Solar; do you run a portable panel that you stand up outside, or did you go on the roof with a permanent type setup ?

Batteries; I have a pair of deep cycles from the dealer but have found that's not enough. I was thinking 8D because I have one, what are you doing for batteries ?

Inverter; What are you using, and where did you hook it up ?

Thanks all !

otrtrucker · 03-13-2018, 11:29 AM

I'm installing a solar panel up on my roof. Then, I don't have to bother with set up/take down. And, it will be out of the reach of "sticky fingers".
I'm using a type 31 deep cycle battery. My monster 5er came with only one battery, likely because I have an onboard generator.
Inverter:. Put it as close to the battery as possible so you don't have to use "welding cables" to supply the 12vdc to it.
You should already have a converter/charger on board. Likely behind the power panel.

iceclimber · 03-13-2018, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by otrtrucker

I'm installing a solar panel up on my roof. Then, I don't have to bother with set up/take down. And, it will be out of the reach of "sticky fingers".
I'm using a type 31 deep cycle battery. My monster 5er came with only one battery, likely because I have an onboard generator.
Inverter:. Put it as close to the battery as possible so you don't have to use "welding cables" to supply the 12vdc to it.
You should already have a converter/charger on board. Likely behind the power panel.

Right but I still need an inverter correct ?

otrtrucker · 03-13-2018, 11:49 AM

You would only need an inverter to power 115vac items if you are boondocking (not plugged in). If the unit is plugged in to the house, or campground, your outlets are already powered. Everything in the camper should be powered from the batteries, except the microwave oven and television.

iceclimber · 03-13-2018, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by otrtrucker

You would only need an inverter to power 115vac items if you are boondocking (not plugged in). If the unit is plugged in to the house, or campground, your outlets are already powered. Everything in the camper should be powered from the batteries, except the microwave oven and television.

What is a campground ? lol.

We boondock almost exclusively. I will most likely go for the 8D and a harbor freight type inverter.

otrtrucker · 03-13-2018, 12:19 PM

I forgot. The fridge is 115/propane also.

otrtrucker · 03-13-2018, 12:20 PM

Have fun and enjoy.

iceclimber · 03-13-2018, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by otrtrucker

I forgot. The fridge is 115/propane also.

Roger that. Except my little outside fridge is 110v only

Jeffgut · 03-13-2018, 01:51 PM

Our last camper we had 2 100w panels mounted to the roof, 4 6v golf cart batteries (paired in series), a 40amp charge controller and a 3000 watt inverter all mounted in the front storage compartment. When you purchase your inverter you will want to get a pure sine wave inverter. Otherwise you may damage sensitive electronics. Our setup would allow us to do mostly what we needed it to, lighting, water pump, heater,radio, TV and most other things within reason . We could even operate the microwave (a small one). Cloudy or rainy days we'd recharge with the generator if we needed to. When our new Wildcat 30GT gets here in May we'll be adding 2 more 100 watt panels to the setup. What ever you do, don't use undersized cableing or you will not be happy with any setup.

iceclimber · 03-13-2018, 08:31 PM

Thank you, I am heading in the same direction. Did you wire it all up yourself ?

My rig is pre wired for solar but only 20 amp

Jeffgut · 03-13-2018, 09:02 PM

Yes. The hardest part was getting the cables from the roof down to the front storage where the batteries were. I like to use the Renogy Mono panels, great bang for the buck. If you run 4 panels you'll want to run 2 pairs in series with a MPPT controller that will handle the voltage so that you can use smaller cables coming down from the roof. That will give you a maximum of close to 32 volts at 200 watts which the MPPT controller can convert to a theoretical (in perfect conditions) of 25 amps.

I'm not sure of what kind of pre-wired setup you have but the one that is coming on my new Wildcat 30 GT does not go to the roof, it has a socket in the pass through storage area that cant handle much more than a trickle charge, per the factory rep that was at the RV show when I ordered it.

iceclimber · 03-14-2018, 08:28 AM

The solar input I see is indeed near the front storage and it's marked Furrion 10A. Are you thinking that 10A is too low to be of value ?

I picked up a Xantrex 1800 pure sine with auto transfer switch and going with an 8D battery for now. Solar will be in the near future.

Jeffgut · 03-14-2018, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceclimber

The solar input I see is indeed near the front storage and it's marked Furrion 10A. Are you thinking that 10A is too low to be of value ?

I picked up a Xantrex 1800 pure sine with auto transfer switch and going with an 8D battery for now. Solar will be in the near future.

According to the factory rep there is no charge controller in the stock setup. Basically just an outlet wired directly to the batteries. It's designed for a suitcase style solar kit with a built in charge controller. About the biggest panel you could use would be a 100 watt. The 100 watt panels I use are rated at 6.25 amps. That hookup would be ok for just the basics like lights, help out with the heater, but if your fridge needs 110v I doubt that it could keep up with the power that the inverter would be drawing. It's designed for battery maintenance in storage or the use of 12v accessories.

iceclimber · 03-14-2018, 11:13 AM

So this "prewire" is basically BS then. Somewhat disappointing as I was hoping to just plug in a couple panels.

Speaking of that I am supposedly prewired for a backup camera. Any idea where I would look for that ? I didn't see it at a glance.

Jeffgut · 03-14-2018, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceclimber

So this "prewire" is basically BS then. Somewhat disappointing as I was hoping to just plug in a couple panels.

Speaking of that I am supposedly prewired for a backup camera. Any idea where I would look for that ? I didn't see it at a glance.

Haven't got a clue on the backup camera.

iceclimber · 03-16-2018, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffgut

Haven't got a clue on the backup camera.

I found it ! lol. It's above the back window but geez those camera are not cheap.

Macrosill · 03-17-2018, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffgut

According to the factory rep there is no charge controller in the stock setup. Basically just an outlet wired directly to the batteries. It's designed for a suitcase style solar kit with a built in charge controller. About the biggest panel you could use would be a 100 watt. The 100 watt panels I use are rated at 6.25 amps. That hookup would be ok for just the basics like lights, help out with the heater, but if your fridge needs 110v I doubt that it could keep up with the power that the inverter would be drawing. It's designed for battery maintenance in storage or the use of 12v accessories.

A bit off topic but if this is the case then one could, in theory, plug in a 12v load to those Solar Prep jacks and pull electrons direct from the battery?

No solar here as we go full hookups exclusively.

iceclimber · 03-17-2018, 10:55 AM

I kind of doubt it's value for a 12V source of power, since you are literally a couple feet from the batteries why not just hook to them.

iceclimber · 03-24-2018, 12:22 PM

Just to close this I went with a Xantrex 1800 Pro with auto switch and hardwired it to the panel. The unit has two 15 amp out which worked nicely to power both sides of the board. Added a pair of Costco golf cart batteries and I am set. Those batteries were 92 each and paired they outperform an 8d. Plus I can actually move them lol. Solar can wait.

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