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Old 10-03-2017, 10:08 AM   #1
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Winterizing Question?

Can you drain the fresh water tank and put a few gallons of antifreeze in the tank and run the pump to fill the lines? What is the negative if there is one to doing it this way, instead of disconnecting lines near the pump?
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:27 AM   #2
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Do a search for "winterizing". This is a fairly popular topic recently. The short answer is that you don't put a/f in the fresh water tank.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:33 AM   #3
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The negatives are that 1) it takes a lot more antifreeze to fill the tank enough to the point that the pump will suck it and 2) that it takes a lot more work getting it all out in the spring.

If you’re going ahead and disconnecting lines, it seems like it should be easy to just install a winterization kit. Do it once and it’s there for future uses.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:36 AM   #4
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Do a search for "winterizing". This is a fairly popular topic recently. The short answer is that you don't put a/f in the fresh water tank.
Why would that be? I know that it is a popular topic. I believe that some videos do it through the fresh water tank. I am trying to get the positives and the negatives.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:38 AM   #5
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Do it once, and after the process of cleaning it out of the tank in the spring, you won't do that again
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Old 10-03-2017, 11:03 AM   #6
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Why would that be? I know that it is a popular topic. I believe that some videos do it through the fresh water tank. I am trying to get the positives and the negatives.
Other than in an absolute pinch of being up against a couple of freezing days/nights and you had no other way of ingesting antifreeze into your system, I can think of NO pros for putting antifreeze in your fresh water tank.

It wastes too much to get to the level of the suction port and it takes multiple flushes to get it out in the spring. Add an antifreeze port and you have all positives and no negatives.
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Old 10-03-2017, 02:27 PM   #7
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Why not just open all of the faucets. Open the low point drains and let the lines drain. The fresh water tank should have a drain valve too. Once the tank is empty, run the fresh water pump for about 15 seconds to get the water out of it. That is what I do every year and have had no issues.
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Old 10-03-2017, 02:39 PM   #8
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Why not just open all of the faucets. Open the low point drains and let the lines drain. The fresh water tank should have a drain valve too. Once the tank is empty, run the fresh water pump for about 15 seconds to get the water out of it. That is what I do every year and have had no issues.
Sound EZ but the first time I heard that one.
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Old 10-03-2017, 02:44 PM   #9
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Why not just open all of the faucets. Open the low point drains and let the lines drain. The fresh water tank should have a drain valve too. Once the tank is empty, run the fresh water pump for about 15 seconds to get the water out of it.
As mentioned in other threads, unless you blow out your lines with compressed air, you run the risk of water remaining in parts of the line.
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Old 10-03-2017, 02:57 PM   #10
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Why not just open all of the faucets. Open the low point drains and let the lines drain. The fresh water tank should have a drain valve too. Once the tank is empty, run the fresh water pump for about 15 seconds to get the water out of it. That is what I do every year and have had no issues.
I've been doing it this way for years and never had a problem.
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Old 10-03-2017, 03:08 PM   #11
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Why not just open all of the faucets. Open the low point drains and let the lines drain. The fresh water tank should have a drain valve too. Once the tank is empty, run the fresh water pump for about 15 seconds to get the water out of it. That is what I do every year and have had no issues.
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I've been doing it this way for years and never had a problem.
You might get away with doing that but there are others not so lucky.

I've said this before...I've seen far too many toilet valves or faucet cartridges with a drop or two of water left behind from only blowing out the lines which have froze and broke to convince me to suck antifreeze into the system. Why take a chance when you can be 100% sure.
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Old 10-03-2017, 03:09 PM   #12
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I've been doing it this way for years and never had a problem.
You've been lucky.
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Old 10-03-2017, 11:26 PM   #13
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Camperwill forgot to say he lives in Southern Florida ;-)
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:12 AM   #14
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I live in Virginia, and have never had an issue by not using RV antifreeze. I just make sure the lines are empty. I do pour just enough -20° windshield washer fluid in the p-traps to get the water out of them.
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:39 AM   #15
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I've been doing it this way for years and never had a problem.
If all RVs were Plumbed the "SAME" as your unit it Might be good advice,but to give "Blanket Advice" is "BAD Advice",because of Location,Type of unit,Options,ect! Youroo!!
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:43 AM   #16
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Camperwill forgot to say he lives in Southern Florida ;-)
He is listed as "Boston" is the RV in Fla.? Youroo!!
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:51 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by otrtrucker View Post
Why not just open all of the faucets. Open the low point drains and let the lines drain. The fresh water tank should have a drain valve too. Once the tank is empty, run the fresh water pump for about 15 seconds to get the water out of it. That is what I do every year and have had no issues.
I did this - and then used air to blow the remaining water out of the lines...except, I forgot to make sure someone/something was holding down the toilet flush pedal while blowing the air into the lines.

Unfortunately I guess I'm a slow learner...did this twice and replaced a valve TWICE after freezes.

I now know better.
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Old 10-04-2017, 07:01 AM   #18
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When you drain the water heater, be sure to release the pressure before you remove the anode rod/plug. Don't ask how I know.
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Old 10-04-2017, 07:08 AM   #19
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I did this - and then used air to blow the remaining water out of the lines...except, I forgot to make sure someone/something was holding down the toilet flush pedal while blowing the air into the lines.

Unfortunately I guess I'm a slow learner...did this twice and replaced a valve TWICE after freezes.

I now know better.
Oops.
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:13 AM   #20
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I live in Virginia, and have never had an issue by not using RV antifreeze. I just make sure the lines are empty. I do pour just enough -20° windshield washer fluid in the p-traps to get the water out of them.
Pouring windshield washer fluid down the p-traps is never going to "get the water out of them". At best, it will lower the freezing point. If you want to get the water out of them, you could suck it out with a shop-vac.

In Virginia, you're probably in a more temperate climate than most, but the weather across the country has been crazy lately, so it's only a matter of time before you will experience a deep freeze some day.
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