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Old 12-31-2013, 09:46 PM   #31
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Well, I peeled all of the decals off, with the exception of the long strips. Not sure if those are staying or going.

Power washed to whole rig, then began polishing off the oxidation, then the cold weather came back. It is so cold out there, the compound freezes, before I can get it out of the container.

Have the front nose section, 95% done, but may have to wait till it gets back up around 32deg, to do anymore.
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Old 01-02-2014, 02:51 PM   #32
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65'f yesterday but today we are dropping to low 40's.
I don't know how your folks deal with such low temps up there - I got chills just thinking bout it.

Of course in August I'll be wishing I was in your neighborhood!

Keep posting (especially the finished photos) - bet it turns out pretty nice with a polish!
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Old 01-02-2014, 08:51 PM   #33
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65'f yesterday but today we are dropping to low 40's.
I don't know how your folks deal with such low temps up there - I got chills just thinking bout it.

Of course in August I'll be wishing I was in your neighborhood!

Keep posting (especially the finished photos) - bet it turns out pretty nice with a polish!
Temps really dropped today, -5 with the wind chill. Burrr! We got aprox. 3" of new blowing snow, I'm glad my son was home to tag team me plowing on the old Cub Cadet!

Thanks for the encouragement, I'll post more pics as we go. It should turn out pretty nice.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:57 AM   #34
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Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:25 PM   #35
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Back at it. Really struggled to get a game plan together. I was hopping I could just wheel it out, but alas it was not to be. Even the most aggressive 3M compund will not remove the oxidation.

Plan "B" was to wetsand, then wheel.

Started out with 2000 grit, kept dropping to croaser grits until I got down to 800 ! That is what it's going to take to get any kind of shine back into it.

The nose, "entry door" side and rear door (done) will all have to be wetsanded with 800 / wheeled out / then buffed & waxed.

The "utility" side of the rig can be restored with just a aggressive wheel / buff / wax.

All of the stripes and decals are now off of it. The metal "chrome" stripes were a special kind of challenge, ended up with a heat gun and putty knife process to get them all off.

Next is use an eraser wheel to get any remaining adhesive residue off. then wetsand.

Here is a picture of the test area on the rear door;


Tools being used;


I was looking under it and noticed my water tank has a buldge in it, should I be concerned about this? it does not appear to be leaking;


I assume this is the drain valve? But I could not get any water out of it;


Sorry for the poor pictures.
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:57 PM   #36
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The drain valve is not a twist type - you have to pull the little T handle to get it open. Did you try that? First time for me had me fooled I kept twisting and nothing then I figured it out.

My decals are starting to peel at the edges on some of them (not the grey metal looking ones) but the red stripes are. So I think I too am going to remove them all then buff out the rig and wax. So I am real interested in how yours turns out.

thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-10-2014, 06:41 AM   #37
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The drain valve is not a twist type - you have to pull the little T handle to get it open. Did you try that? First time for me had me fooled I kept twisting and nothing then I figured it out.

My decals are starting to peel at the edges on some of them (not the grey metal looking ones) but the red stripes are. So I think I too am going to remove them all then buff out the rig and wax. So I am real interested in how yours turns out.

thanks for sharing.
No, I did not try pulling on it? I'll give that a shot, thank you.

And hindsight being 20/20, I may have tried to save the metal stripes on mine. I hit them with the wheel at one point (after I had 4' of them pulled in another section) and they seemed to clean up?

But no time for regrets!

I did not work on it last night, but I did manage to get another eraser wheel bought so I'll have it the next time I get a few minutes to spend on it.
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Old 04-25-2014, 06:49 AM   #38
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Well I have given up. I had hoped to be able to recondition the exterior of this rig to it's former glory, but without a paint job, I do not believe that is possible.

I have come to the realization that the "shadows", I have been chasing in the finish, are too deep for me to reach. The shadows are where the decal were. Those areas are darker than the rest of the surrounding areas.

What I came to realize is that the color difference in "inside" of the gel coat. Not on the "outside" where I have been sanding and polishing. I think the surface I have been polishing is a "clear coat" layer. The color layer is deeper. The color layer has been faded by the suns UV rays, everywhere except where the decals were.

So I will make it shiney, polish up the aluminum and call it done. Yes, I have not ruled out some new decals to cover where the old ones were. That is a possible option.

Yesterday I only had a few minutes to mess with it, so I thought I would hook up a garden hose to the water system and see if it had any leaks. It does. The outside shower head leaks water when the valves are opened.

I was able to get the water heater to light, but only for a few minutes. I hit the switch, the red light came on. I went back outside and could feel heat at the unit. Then It went out and would not re light.

But as I said, I only had a couple of minutes, so more to come on that.
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:30 PM   #39
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$14.00 for a new outside shower faucet. I showed the guy at the RV place where the water was spraying out from, he said the the "flow back diverter" had failed. Easy fix, resealed the compartment when I put it back together.

I did a little looking around and found there was no water going into the water heater, I took the access panel off, open the bottom valve and closed the other one. Then the water filled the tank, the burner kicked on and all was right with the world!

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Old 04-26-2014, 05:57 PM   #40
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Well heck, it looks ALOT better!! How long till you take her out?
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