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Old 10-20-2009, 06:06 PM   #1
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Winterizing 2006 BaseCamp

I bought a 2006 BaseCamp (16') this spring. Never had an RV before but have winterized my 28' Rinker Cabin cruizer for years. Didn't get an owners manual with this unit and would like any tips/ hints etc for winterizing it this year.



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Old 10-20-2009, 06:13 PM   #2
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Location: Eastlake, Ohio
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Taken from another post:

The following are some guidelines you can use when winterizing your RV. The steps for winterizing are pretty standard for most RVs and should be done in the order listed. The guidelines also assume you have some knowledge about RVs in general, and your RV in particular (knowing where your inlet lines for the fresh water tank are located, for example).

Drain fresh water tank.
Drain and flush gray water holding tank.
Drain and flush black water holding tank.
Drain and flush hot water tank.
If you have low-point drain lines under your RV: Open the hot and cold faucets in your RV.
Uncap the low-point drain lines(NOTE: Some units are equipped with valves instead of caps); let water drain completely.
Recap, or close Drain Lines valves.
Close the hot and cold faucets.

Option, Blowing out the water lines with air:
(Note: If you have low-point drain lines, this may not be necessary).
Screw on compressed [purple]air adapter blow out plug[/purple] onto main fresh water inlet.
Apply compressed air, keeping pressure to less than 20 psi.
Open each faucet, one at a time, to force water out of lines.
Make sure to open each faucet in the RV, including the shower and toilet.
Open hot water drain plug and blow out the water in this tank.
Remove compressed air and compressed air adapter.
Replace drain plug in hot water heater and close all faucets.

Introduce antifreeze into the water lines: Use RV Non-Toxic Antifreeze ONLY.
Approximately 1-2 gallons should be plenty.
Make sure water pump is off and all faucets are closed.
Close the Water Heater Bypass Valve on the back of the water heater.
NOTE: If you don't have a Water Bypass Valve for your hot water tank, seriously consider having a [purple]by-pass kit[/purple] installed. Otherwise, in addition to the water lines you will end up filling the hot water tank with antifreeze. It's not harmful, but you'll use an additional six gallons of antifreeze.

Disconnect the water line where it joins the fresh water tank
- or -
If your RV is so equipped, shut off the valve coming from the fresh water tank and open the valve for the winterizing inlet line.
Place the water inlet line (either from the main system or the winterizing line) into the jug or other source container with the RV antifreeze.
Switch on the water pump; it will start to suck up the antifreeze into the lines.
Open each valve of each faucet slowly, one at a time, until the red antifreeze starts coming out. Once flowing, shut off the faucet valve.
Note: If for some reason you can't drain the water lines using the low-point drain lines and you can't blow out the lines with compressed air, you will have to wait until the antifreeze pushes out the fresh water in the lines before closing the valve. A rule of thumb; don't shut off the valve until the antifreeze starts coming out.
Remember to also do this for the toilet, tub & shower(outside shower if equipped).
Shut off the water pump.
Remove the inlet line from the antifreeze, then either:
Re-attach the water line to the fresh water tank
- or -
Close the winterizing inlet valve and reopen the fresh water valve, if your RV is so equipped.
Pour a small amount of antifreeze down each drain to ensure that the sink traps have antifreeze in them.
Pour a small amount of antifreeze in the toilet bowl also. Note: Don't flush it into the holding tank.

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Old 10-20-2009, 07:32 PM   #3
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Location: Enumclaw, WA
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This topic has been delt with in at least three different threads in the last 2 weeks, PLEASE search the forum for "Winterizing"

One thing I really do not advocate is putting the antifreeze in your water lines.

Oh and welcome to the forums
"I can fix it, and if I can't fix it, I can fix it so no one can fix it!"
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