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Old 11-02-2009, 04:29 PM   #1
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2007 8528GTSS - Recommendations for stabilzers and help on slide out problem

We have a 2007 FLAGSTAFF CLASSIC SUPER LITE 8528GTSS. We just leased a spot for a year - so it will be in the same spot for an extended period.

Do you recommend using a king pin tripod stablizer on the 5th wheel?

How about supports under the slide-out (such as http://auto.sears.com/ULTRA-FAB-SLID...ductId=2013574 )

Also - does anyone know where the fuses are for the slide out? The slide out quit working on our last trip and I had to manually crank it in. I know there is supposed to be some 30amp fuses somewhere - but I can't find them.

Thanks!!
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:40 AM   #2
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The fuses are located behind the battery box (2 GREEN fuse holders) in my 8526RLWS and I am sure yours are too. There is also a BLACK fuse holder closer to the front of the battery box for the front Landing Gear. The Distribution Panel Circuit Breaker labeled S/O is for ONLY the Wardrobe Slide.

Have not tried either of the stabilizers, but we do bounce around a bit while camping (especially with our 50 pound German Shorthair trying to burn up some energy!). I would like to hear about other's experience with the stabilizers.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:08 AM   #3
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Yes, the fuses you are seeking are located under the tongue area on the frame. They are in a green plastic snap together case- just follow the wires. Inside the case is a 30 amp automotive style bayonet fuse. Good Luck!!! Randy
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:12 AM   #4
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Can't say anthing to the tripod or fuses but putting supports under the slide are not a good idea unless all weight is off the suspension of the trailer as up and down movement of the rig cause the support to put leverage on the slide and push it up, not a good idea. That question has been asked before and the popular concensus was that unless you are removing the axles and dropping the trailer on a base it's not a good idea to use the supports under the slides.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:41 AM   #5
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Thanks Jeeper! Great tip.

Randy, JRM02 has a 5'er, not a TT, and the battery is located inside the front basement door directly behind the king pin on the driver's side of the camper. Since the battery box is up against the front right landing gear, the green fuses (Behind the gear strut and to the right of the battery) are particularly HARD to find and change.

I replaced all three 30 AMP blade fuses with auto reset ones from the auto zone store so I would NEVER have to jam myself back in that corner again. (smile)
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:53 PM   #6
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Thanks Everyone!

I'll search for the fuses this weekend when I'm at the RV. I really appreciate the help. Hopefully it is only a fuse!

I did read from alot of people that the supports for the slide out can cause damage. We just get alot of sway. I did order a good set of chocks and a tripod today instead - so that should help.

We are parking it on a permanent camping site by a lake - so do you think we can leave the slide out or should we bring it back in after we spend the weekend in it?

Thanks again!
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:00 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jrm02 View Post
I'll search for the fuses this weekend when I'm at the RV. I really appreciate the help. Hopefully it is only a fuse!

I did read from alot of people that the supports for the slide out can cause damage. We just get alot of sway. I did order a good set of chocks and a tripod today instead - so that should help.

We are parking it on a permanent camping site by a lake - so do you think we can leave the slide out or should we bring it back in after we spend the weekend in it?

Thanks again!
Since the rig is outdoors I would put the slides in when you leave, just less posibility for getting debris on the top of them. Also if you will be leaving the heat on low it will reduce the square footage that needs to be heated and save on the heating bill (if any).
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:19 PM   #8
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Heat

The RV does has the switch next to the oven to turn on the belly heater. I think it must just be heat tape wrapped underneath. I didn't think to ask for details about it when I bought it - and the owner's manual has no information on it. I'll probably just leave that switch on. I hope that it is temperature sensitive. I'll also disconnect the outside water.
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:34 PM   #9
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just found out from flagstaff that the holding tanks are the only thing that is heated. Kind of a stupid thing since your water lines are more likely to freeze! Guess I'll leave the heat on really low when we leave.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:53 PM   #10
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I have a wildcat 31ts that has jt stablizers on it and that was a great improvement over the tt i had before . I had installed a 3rd set of jacks under it. After i found the proper way to use the jt's they work well , but i had bought a tripod from a friend so i use it also. The last time we camped i forgot to put the locks between the tires and got a little front to rear movement. I had asked about slideout stablizers before and with the info supplied the the great members on this forum now have a set for sale,lol. Good luck and happy camping.
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:11 PM   #11
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If you'e going to leave the heat on, better have a large gas bottle. That RV furnace can suck some propane. If you're sure the power is going to there, might need to think electric. Just some thoughts.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:41 AM   #12
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We have the 2010 8526RLWS and my take on the reason for the tank heaters being just a heat mat glued to the bottom of the holding tanks is that nearly all of the actual plumbing is inside the camper/basement area that is normally heated (there is no insulation around the flex duct going to the front half of the camper). The tanks are outside the "normally heated" area so they could freeze up and not be able to be dumped.

If the rig is level, there should be no liquid downstream of the shutoff (dump) valves to freeze.

http://travel.webshots.com/photo/238...w?vhost=travel

Be aware that the black water flush line is NOT heated in the tank area and may still have water in it.

Also not exactly sure where the fresh water tank is actually located. (not shown in photos I was sent).
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:25 AM   #13
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Be aware that the black water flush line is NOT heated in the tank area and may still have water in it.
Black water flush lines have a check/vacuum breaker valve in them. When you disconnect the hose from the port, water should back flow out of the line emptying it up to that valve. Our valve is located in the W/D closet inside the motorhome so it is within a heated area. I would guess that most are made the same way for the same reason.
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:49 PM   #14
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Found one Fuse - should there be 2?

I found one 30amp fuse in a green holder by the battery. It was good. Should I have found a 2nd fuse somewhere? The slide out makes a real slight sound when I push the switch - but then doesn't do anything. The sound only last about a second. Any other ideas before I have to haul the thing into the repair shop? Thanks again!
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Old 11-28-2009, 09:01 PM   #15
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I would think if you only have one slide out, then there's only one fuse. Mine would not do anything when the button was pushed. And, as stated, mine is a TT, not a fiver. Totally electric motor driven slides, no hydraulics. Mine has 2 slide outs; hence 2 fuses. Hope this helps you! Randy
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