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Old 08-15-2012, 08:04 PM   #1
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2011 Flagstaff 30WFKSS V-Lite Upgrades/Additions

As promised I have started this thread to share the upgrades and additions I have made to my Forest River Flagstaff 30WFKSS coach. My wife and I absolutley love this layout. Someone else mentioned that the front kitchen is out of the way of traffic through the coach (although it is only my wife and I) but we really like the amount of countertop space. This seemed to be one thing that is lacking in many of the floorplans. Nice job on the design of the front kitchen with the V-Lite.

I will add items to the tread as I have time to document them but wanted to get it started with a few I think everyone can benefit from.

One of the first things I did was replace the mechanical thermostat with a digital one. You will notice I added a switch for low and high fan speed. There are articles on the web that show how to do this and you will want to as in cool mode the switch lets you adjust the fan speed.
More to come....... Happy Camping

BK
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:14 PM   #2
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When we took our first trip out and had hung clothes in the wardrobe at the back of the trailer and found them all over the bottom of the wardrobe I saw an opportunity. Has this happend to anyone? bet it has.

I developed a simple, yet functional restraining device. Basically is a small aluminum U channel that can be found at Home Depot or Lowes. You will also need some of the foam (round) rope used for sealing windows and two restraining pins that can be found in the specialty hardware drawers at either Home depot or lowes.

I simply measured across the inside of the wardrobe, made two small blocks of wood, then created two vertical aluminum pieces that have two holes drilled in them one upper position that is a parking position when you want to remove cloths from the wardrobe and the lower postion that is used for travel.

Next cut a long piece of the U channel that will span across the wardrobe with a hole drilled through the side of the channel on each side. Use some silicone and glue in a piece of the window rope sealing foam into the U channel. This will apply pressure down on the top of the hangers once locked in the travel position.

There you have it. Simply move the horizontal bar up for use and down for travel. Cloths stay put right on the hanging rod no matter how rough the rail road track crossing is......
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:24 PM   #3
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Next thing was to add the whole coach electrical protection. I decided instead of doing the external unit I added the hard wired Surge Guard to my unit. It fits perfectly under the sink in the bathroom and there is enough slack in the factory wiring to cut it and insert the surge guard. I do not have to think about being protected now from under voltage/current or over voltage/current. When you do hook up the main shore power cord it takes about 2 min. for the surge guard to analyize the line power and kick in but you will hear a click and everything is now powered and ready to go.. Protected...
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:03 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info. I'll be using these good ideas. I have purchased two of the portable surge protectors in the last year. The first one was stolen and the second one I just bought two weeks ago and am going to see if I can exchange it for a hard wire version. It has not been plugged in yet so if I can I'll be making that permanent upgrade.
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:51 AM   #5
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That is why I went with the hard wire version. I was worried it would get stolen or might get left behind. I think you will find the hard wire is actually slightly less expensive.

Thanks
BK
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:32 AM   #6
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Nice mods BK. I would eventually like to convert the thermostat to a digital model and also add a surge guard. I like the hard wired installation. Keep them good ideas coming!
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:38 PM   #7
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I am wanting opinions on possibly plumbing the two grey tanks together to eliminate having to crawl under the slide out to drain the galley tank. What do y'all think?
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:26 AM   #8
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Water Pump re-location and Winterizing valve

We took delivery of our V-lite during the winter of 2011. After our first trip out I installed the CAMCO winterizing valve to enable easy winterizing and adding the anti-freeze liquid. The first thing I noticed was the water pump was installed as far back in the cabinet that is under the TV as it could be. I had to almost crawl inside this small area to reach the pump to install the valve. The plastic tube/connector that comes with the winterizing valve kit was too short to reach from the back of cabinet out to a comfortable place to insert in a bottle to transfer anti-freeze.

I struggled through the first year with the process placing lots of towels around on the floor but I said here is a perfect opportunity to improve my coach.

I studied the area where the pump and water filter are and determined that a small platform could be built and installed over the wiring and plumbing bundle that lay on the bottom of this cabinet area.

Installing this platform would enable me to move the pump to the front of the cabinet area without having to change any lines. The line from the fresh tank would reach the pump as well as the output line from the pump could be used attaching to the filter. This small addition placed my water pump in a location I can easily get to the winterizing valve this winter and if I ever have to change the pump out it will be super easy. Hope you find this helpful....
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:35 AM   #9
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Talking

Just upgraded my electric tounge jack. I went with the Husky Brute HB4500R. This unit is a 4,500lb lift capacity unit but has some really nice features. First is the LED lights that are positioned very well for covering the area where the weight distribution hitch bars connect with the trailer. Second is the nice parking spot for the trailer electrical cable. Nice thinking Husky. This keeps the connector protected when not in use. I really like the adjustable foot on the jack. This helps cut down on the number of blocks needed. Best of all is the remote... Yes, remote control. I can now level the trailer from front to back by myself. My lovely wife no longer has to stand on the side of the trailer looking at the level meter and giving me a thumbs up when we are level. The remote allows me to operate the hitch from up to 30 or so feet away. Really nice. Unit comes with a breaker, I went to the trusty Raido Shack and bought a small project box and installed the breaker and mounted inside the LP tank area. Made for a very nice installation. You may wonder why the 4,500lb unit. Well I have a Reese weight distribution hitch and I have felt the factory unit labor when picking up the back end of my truck to get the bars installed. This unit has a ball bearing system in the screw jack that is much smoother than a standard jack. I think you will like this unit and it is priced very reasonable considering it offers a remote control.

More upgrades to come....... Happy Camping
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:02 AM   #10
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That is a very nice jack. Did you do all the wire covering or was that a factory thing?
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Old 09-30-2012, 11:20 AM   #11
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I did all of the wire loom covering. It helps protect the wiring from the UV rays and looks good too.

Thanks
BK
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:29 AM   #12
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BK, We ordered and took delivery of a 2013 Vlite 30WFKSS last month. I too replaced the analog thermostat with a Hunter Digital, I also had done this to the previous 2009 Vlite 28WFKS unit we traded in. In the 2013 units they replaced the standard round clothes bars in the closets with slotted ones (will post pics later). And that Husky is a great tongue jack! I installed one on our previous vlite (without remote) and insisted the dealer swap out tongue jacks as to keep my fairly new Husky, they were great and swapped them out with no charge. The only addition to the jack I added was a Flipjack from Fastway. If you have or haven't seen one of these I highly recommend them to everyone! (Fastway Trailer Products - Fastway Flip Automatic Jack Foot) But one of your upgrades I am most interested in is the added aluminum tote you mounted on the rear bumper you installed. How were you able to mount it and how much weight will the bumper support?

Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:29 PM   #13
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BK,can you put the tail gate down while hooked up? Youroo!!
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:33 PM   #14
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Yes, I have no issue putting my tailgate down while hooked up. Good question, I have seen situations where this is not the case.

Thanks
BK
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dilgerc View Post
I am wanting opinions on possibly plumbing the two grey tanks together to eliminate having to crawl under the slide out to drain the galley tank. What do y'all think?
I did it on our 08 Flagstaff 831RLSS and on our 12 Flagstaff8528RKWS. Didn't want to mess with having Y connections and crawling under the slide to open a valve. Totally ridiculous the way they are plumbed. Think it would be much simpler for FR to just put a pipe between the tanks and fill them both at the same time. Now I can hook up one hose and control all 3 tanks at one location.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:46 AM   #16
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I did it on our 08 Flagstaff 831RLSS and on our 12 Flagstaff8528RKWS. Didn't want to mess with having Y connections and crawling under the slide to open a valve. Totally ridiculous the way they are plumbed. Think it would be much simpler for FR to just put a pipe between the tanks and fill them both at the same time. Now I can hook up one hose and control all 3 tanks at one location.
This will no doubt raise a bunch of comments, but this issue was brought up to one of the engineers while we were on the Rockwood / Flagstaff tour. The engineer said the reason they are not tied together is the concern of getting the proper angle on the drain pipe due to the limited height they have to work with and thus leaving drain pipes in a very vunerable location (more so than they are now).
PS don't take it out on me, I am only relaying what was said at the factory.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:51 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSasks

This will no doubt raise a bunch of comments, but this issue was brought up to one of the engineers while we were on the Rockwood / Flagstaff tour. The engineer said the reason they are not tied together is the concern of getting the proper angle on the drain pipe due to the limited height they have to work with and thus leaving drain pipes in a very vunerable location (more so than they are now).
PS don't take it out on me, I am only relaying what was said at the factory.
What the engineer told you makes sense to me. My Windjammer 3008W galley tank is already a slow drainer, as manufactured. You don't need to be an engineer to imagine that running the piping 10 to 15 feet to join the grey tank discharge location would likely create exactly those sorts of problems. That is one mod I will forego.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:06 AM   #18
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What the engineer told you makes sense to me. My Windjammer 3008W galley tank is already a slow drainer, as manufactured. You don't need to be an engineer to imagine that running the piping 10 to 15 feet to join the grey tank discharge location would likely create exactly those sorts of problems. That is one mod I will forego.
Took less than 10' of pipe on both trailers and they drain just fine. This was one of the first mods I did and wouldn't have a trailer without doing it. It is easy, cheap and a lot more convenient. Tricky connecting pipe into the elbow as it doesn't connect on the centerline of the elbow but slightly to the rear.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:17 AM   #19
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BKennedy thank you for all the information on your upgrades which I'm definetly will be installing. My question to you.We have the same trailer only its a 2012 which I don't believe would matter,it has electric stabilizers, but I'm looking to add leveler jacks.On looking underneath I could'nt find a steardy place where to add the jacks. Have you added any jacks to your unit.I would appreciate any information you could give me. Thank You
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:27 AM   #20
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BKennedy my second question is about mounting a flat screen TV in the bed room.I was thinking useing a wall mount either against the outer wall (don't know ) if the studs run verticle.Second location was the side of the ward robe cabinet with the wall being reenforced. I would appreciate your opinion.
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