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Old 06-09-2014, 06:01 PM   #251
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27RLWS

We love it too. Funny though We don't have not a lot of stuff in it. Took out the heavy counter extension and the air bed. Have a couple of small blankets in the back and the basic stuff in the front storage. No food stored in it. We basically bring everything with us when we camp. Oh wait...my toothbrush is still in there in the bathroom cabinet. Surely that can't cause the 1" loss. Lol
I would really consider weighing the TT but based on we don't have anything in it, I can't see it weighting mor than 6,800 lbs.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:50 PM   #252
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It could be another Dexter axle going bad ? The difference between left and right side seem to be too big to me. The trailer should be going straight down the road.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:41 PM   #253
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Okay Wayne here it is. Picked up the TT today and brought it home. No problem with the brakes it's the WDH which I greased.
That's what I thought. Thanks for following up. I am camping presently and greased my WDH at the head and all is quiet again.

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I did check my wheel well clearance on a nice flat road (in front of the house which is not a traffic issue). I have 3" of clearance from the top of the tire to the top of the fender well on the right side (dinette side). I measured the left side (kitchen slide) and discovered it was only 1 3/4 to 2".
Yes, that is certainly a big difference. I will try and remember to stop and take some measurements on the way home before I get to the storage lot as it is not flat. I still have all the parts that came with the trailer, i.e. the counter extension and the sofa bed.

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Spoke to the big guy at the CG where I store the TT and he said that could be an issue. I looked at the axle stickers and found they are both 3,500 lbs rated axles (hum). The dry weight of the 27RLWS is 6,353 and a never exceed cargo weight of 1,153. That's a 7,506 total weight give or take a few. The two axles at 3,500 is 7,000 lbs which leaves 506 pounds overweight. Does that make sense to you?
I believe that this was answered by someone later on above. You forgot the tongue weight - the axles don't see all of the rated load. As you rightly stated the axles are good for 7000# which, based on the GVWR of 7500# and say 12% on the tongue (900#) means that the axles would see 6600#.

When I went to the CAT scales this was the weight of my RV. The "Drive Axle" weight is the tongue weight of the RV - 860#. There was almost as much stuff in it as now, IIRC. But I assume that I have abother 400# approximately, and I have pretty much stabilized at this weight. I will take it back to the scale one of these days. Maybe when I get it washed at a truck wash which is just across the road from the scales. I can't wash it myself since I can't get it home and the storage lot has no washing facilities.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:48 PM   #254
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BTW, I watch this thread because I love the floor plan and would love to upgrade from my Roo to your floor plan some day.
Good choice. Every time we camp in ours we are so glad we made this decision. Sure there are a few improvements that could be made but they are not big ones. It is also a fine towing trailer.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:27 PM   #255
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Okay Wayne here it is. Picked up the TT today and brought it home. No problem with the brakes it's the WDH which I greased. I did check my wheel well clearance on a nice flat road (in front of the house which is not a traffic issue). I have 3" of clearance from the top of the tire to the top of the fender well on the right side (dinette side). I measured the left side (kitchen slide) and discovered it was only 1 3/4 to 2". Spoke to the big guy at the CG where I store the TT and he said that could be an issue. I looked at the axle stickers and found they are both 3,500 lbs rated axles (hum). The dry weight of the 27RLWS is 6,353 and a never exceed cargo weight of 1,153. That's a 7,506 total weight give or take a few. The two axles at 3,500 is 7,000 lbs which leaves 506 pounds overweight. Does that make sense to you? It's no wonder she leans to one side going down the road. I get it that the kitchen slide would be heavier (?) than the dinette slide as the wardrobe slide is on the same side. But...there is nothing I store on that side, nor have I exceeded 500 pounds of normal stuff in the TT. I have a call into the dealership since Dexter didn't even want to here about it and told me to call Forest River direct. I'm going to see what the dealer can do and go from there.
If you (Greased) your (Equalizer Hitch) you just (Defeated its purpose)! Youroo!!
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:52 PM   #256
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If you (Greased) your (Equalizer Hitch) you just (Defeated its purpose)! Youroo!!
You'd think so but that is not the case. Read the manual.
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Old 06-11-2014, 07:31 AM   #257
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You'd think so but that is not the case. Read the manual.
The Manual says (Steel on Steel Friction) between the Bars and L-brackets is the (Sway Control)! Its says to Lube the (Friction surfaces of the (Head & Sockets)! It says (Noise & Grinding Sounds) are (Normal)! BUT if the (Noise & Grinding) is upsetting a Option is too lube the bars,thus (Reducing Sway Control)! Remember (Friction is the Main Factor of this Hitch for Sway Control)! Youroo!!
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:07 AM   #258
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The Manual says (Steel on Steel Friction) between the Bars and L-brackets is the (Sway Control)! Its says to Lube the (Friction surfaces of the (Head & Sockets)! It says (Noise & Grinding Sounds) are (Normal)! BUT if the (Noise & Grinding) is upsetting a Option is too lube the bars,thus (Reducing Sway Control)! Remember (Friction is the Main Factor of this Hitch for Sway Control)! Youroo!!
Youroo - I am an engineer by profession. I am fully well aware of how the Equalizer 4 point (of friction) WDH works and that applying lubrication to friction surfaces reduces the coefficient of friction. So yes technically you are right. I waited a long time listening to the sound of galling before I decided to try a little lubrication on 2 of the 4 surfaces just to see what would happen.

Guess what? The reduction in friction caused by my application of lithium grease was negligible to the tow behaviour of the rig, i.e. real world experience trumps theorizing any day. That is why some of us are engineers and some of us are scientists, but that is another topic.

Bottom line - yes it technically does reduce the friction but how much (-1% is a reduction, right? And the manual correctly does not qualify how much reduction) but it is left to the user to determine, in real world conditions as I have done, if the reduction is acceptable. I just pulled 200 miles to get to where I am now and it was one of the best pulls ever. Last couple of trips before this, also with the lubricated hitch, were also very good - semis were going by with no more push-pull than normal. IOW - no change.

But the noises are efectively gone.

Just as a side note - do you know that Equalizer sells friction-reducing pads (my term as I am too lazy to look up the real name at this moment) for use at the L-brackets (the other 2 friction points)? Why do you think that is if they allow that it is defeating the purpose? That was a rhetorical question.
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Old 06-11-2014, 07:55 PM   #259
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Yes I do know that they sell (Sway Bracket Jacket) kits($ 22.35Pr.).They are for users who want to (Lube but also keep Clean) the Factory also states (They Reduce Your Sway Control)! Youroo!!
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:10 PM   #260
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Youroo, Wmoses said he agrees that it reduces friction. There is no debating that fact. However, he contends, as do I, that the negative effect is not significant enough to be felt.

I towed my Roo on a 3000 mile trip to PEI and Cape Breton last summer with a light coating of bearing grease on the hitch head friction surfaces (top and bottom of the bar sockets) and with the bracket jackets on the L brackets and I was very happy with the sway control it gave me. It did reduce but not eliminate the noise. I also verified with the manufacturer that this is an acceptable practice with their product before doing it.
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