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Old 06-30-2014, 06:24 PM   #321
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FWIW, The factory drives screws/nails all up and down the bottom flange to attach the wood strips for the underbelly.
True but those holes would be smaller than the ones for the hangers. The smaller the better. Of course no holes is best but maybe there is a good factor of safety in the frame.
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Old 06-30-2014, 06:28 PM   #322
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True but those holes would be smaller than the ones for the hangers. The smaller the better. Of course no holes is best but maybe there is a good factor of safety in the frame.
Don't really think a few 5/16" dia holes in the bottom flange would be of any significance to the load carrying ability of the beam. Now if you notch the edge of the flange, that's a whole new can of worms.
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:12 PM   #323
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27RLWS

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Thanks. Here is a picture of the frame clamps I made. I have a Harbor Freight cutoff saw and wire welder so I welded a spacer and top piece to form a U for the inside of the frame. Used a spacer and fender washer on the 5/16 threaded rod supports to attach to the outside of the frame. You could use a spacer and fender washer on both sides, probably easier and just as good.


Looks good. Don't know If I could make the brackets but would try. No welding on the frame? Correct?


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Old 06-30-2014, 08:32 PM   #324
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Don't really think a few 5/16" dia holes in the bottom flange would be of any significance to the load carrying ability of the beam. Now if you notch the edge of the flange, that's a whole new can of worms.
Holes in the flange can cause a significant loss in section modulus of the channel structural section, the larger the hole the border the cross sectional area that is lost, ya-de-ya-de-ya ... I know how much loss can occur.

You are right that notching the edge of the flange is worse than a hole that is closer to the heel of the channel, especially if the bending is about the vertical axis of if there is buckling failure of the section.

The good thing is that the "box" portion of the RV adds to the strength of the whole, and reduces the load seen by the frame. How much is anyone's guess outside of the manufacturer's engineering department.

Bottom line - avoid drilling into the structural members of these trailers, especially when we don't know how much or where the margin is.
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:35 PM   #325
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I hear that!!!


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Old 06-30-2014, 10:10 PM   #326
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Looks good. Don't know If I could make the brackets but would try. No welding on the frame? Correct?


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Correct, no welding on frame. Probably a number of ways to do it without welding especially if you are only going to put something light like a sewer hose in it. The ladder weighs about 40 pounds so I was looking to go extra strong.
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:03 PM   #327
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Getting settled and ready for the 4th of July on the lake in East Tennessee


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Old 07-02-2014, 10:50 PM   #328
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Wayne I couldn't post a pic on the pm. I don't have the heat pads for the tanks. It's blanked out. I have a water pump and a water heater switch. The water heater switch apparently does nothing unless it can used when the out side switch is off. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-03-2014, 06:54 AM   #329
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Wayne I couldn't post a pic on the pm. I don't have the heat pads for the tanks. It's blanked out. I have a water pump and a water heater switch. The water heater switch apparently does nothing unless it can used when the out side switch is off.
Ahhh ... now I see what switch you are referring to. I do have the tank heaters and I assumed that all Emeralds had it and I also assumed that is what you must be referring to.

The switch in your picture is for the gas function of your hot water tank. Note the "DSI" LED next to the switch? That is to indicate that Direct Spark Ignition is On to activate the gas function from inside the RV. Makes sense that it only works when the electric switch on on the heater is in the OFF position, since that switch controls the electric heating of the water. I have actually never used the gas function, I don't believe. I typically just flip the switch at the unit when setting up the RV and by the time I need hot water (usually hours later) the water is always hot.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:35 AM   #330
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Ah. Makes sense. Thanks Wayne. It's always good to have someone out there to bounce stuff off of.


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Old 07-03-2014, 08:02 AM   #331
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We just finished doing the ALCAN Highway in our 2014 27RKWS, putting 7117 miles on it. The only issue was the Dometic 300 toilet, which they shipped a new one to Whitehorse, Yt, and I installed it in about 20 minutes. The other problem was having the GFCI outlet in the bathroom fail, and knock out all the outlets in the trailer. I just replaced the outlet. Other than that, the trailer has had no issues. Our 2009 Suburban made 10.15 MPG, and the average cost of fuel was $4.97 a gallon. The highest price was $7. 26 a gallon, so we bought only as much as we needed. We are very happy with the T.T.
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:22 AM   #332
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$7.26 a gallon? Why? Where?

Dang. That's $3,500 in fuel alone! How long were you gone?
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:43 AM   #333
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Must have been out near California. That take their taxes seriously there. Lol


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Old 07-03-2014, 08:54 AM   #334
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The $7.26 a gallon gas was a Muncho Lake, BC. It is a long ways from anywhere. The RV park was very nice, but expensive. We were gone for 44 nights.
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:58 AM   #335
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Must have been out near California. That take their taxes seriously there.
Tell me about it. It's why we left in 2003.
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:40 PM   #336
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Ah BC. It's by the liter there not by the gallon. It once was an imperial gallon but the new metric system won them over.


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Old 07-03-2014, 03:04 PM   #337
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Here we are celebrating the 4th of July weekend and discovered a shower leak. The last time there was a leak like this, Noah needed an ark. Seems the water runs down the shower wall and then seeps somehow behind the sower pan and onto the floor behind the shower pan. I pulled the heater pipe cover and found water laying there. Drain was tight and free of any water. The left side was dry and no signs of water. But the right side of the shower pan (again, inside the pan itself) was soaked. No real damage to the TT yet. It has leaked since day one but I caulked it. Saw it again this morning and it was worse. Anyone have any ideas?
It's going back to the dealer for repair as it seems the whole shower needs to be removed and replaced.


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Old 07-03-2014, 04:58 PM   #338
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I converted all the liter fill-ups to gallons. That's how I came up with $7.26 a gallon. Most fuels in BC are in the $1.20 to $1.60 a liter.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:03 PM   #339
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If anyone is interested , I did a blogspot called The Soare's RV. It pretty much covers the trip.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:10 PM   #340
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Go it.


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