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Old 11-27-2013, 03:09 PM   #1
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Question 27RLWS Suburban oven - goes off after a while

I did a search on this forum on this and did not see a consensus on this issue, so I thought that I would ask again.

When my wife lights the pilot in the oven, she holds the knob in for 15 seconds or so afterwards then proceeds to set the temperature. After some time (which varies) the oven will go out. This happens every time.

Some responses on other threads suggest that the thermocouple (which controls the gas flow) is too far above the pilot flame and that it should be bent downwards. This is easier said than done using one hand as the assembly is quite stiff and not easily bendable (probably a good thing). Another response said that the control module behind the knob for the oven had to be replaced, and yet another said that the whole oven had to be replaced.

I am hesitant to bring the RV to the dealer because of two reasons mainly - RV service is typically backlogged and I bought the RV out of state so the local Flagstaff dealer could be a pain. Just guessing at this time, of course. However, if it does go in I will get them to install a second Fantastic Fan in the living room.

So anyone else have this issue and what was the solution?
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:08 PM   #2
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UPDATE - We watched the burner assembly while the oven was one and noticed that while the burner was on (before the set temperature was reached) the pilot light was repeatedly coming on and going out. I expect that when the temperature in the oven reaches the set temperature, the burner flame goes out and, if the pilot is out, it never restarts.
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:02 PM   #3
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We had the same problem with our unit. Took it to the dealer and they said no problem found. Suddenly stopped having that problem. I say find your model number and call surburban yourself
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:50 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by HONDAMAN174 View Post
We had the same problem with our unit. Took it to the dealer and they said no problem found. Suddenly stopped having that problem. I say find your model number and call surburban yourself
Can't hurt to call Suburban. Is that what you had to do or did the visit to the dealer shop "scared" the problem out of the oven?

I want the dealership visit to be the last resort, but I also want the problem fixed.
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wmoses View Post
I did a search on this forum on this and did not see a consensus on this issue, so I thought that I would ask again.

When my wife lights the pilot in the oven, she holds the knob in for 15 seconds or so afterwards then proceeds to set the temperature. After some time (which varies) the oven will go out. This happens every time.

Some responses on other threads suggest that the thermocouple (which controls the gas flow) is too far above the pilot flame and that it should be bent downwards. This is easier said than done using one hand as the assembly is quite stiff and not easily bendable (probably a good thing). Another response said that the control module behind the knob for the oven had to be replaced, and yet another said that the whole oven had to be replaced.

I am hesitant to bring the RV to the dealer because of two reasons mainly - RV service is typically backlogged and I bought the RV out of state so the local Flagstaff dealer could be a pain. Just guessing at this time, of course. However, if it does go in I will get them to install a second Fantastic Fan in the living room.

So anyone else have this issue and what was the solution?
We are having the same problem. When Oven reaches set temp and main burner goes off, the pilot light goes off, also. I've watched as it nears the set temp, and the pilot begins to flutter - can actually hear it. I've reported this to dealer, and they will check it out when I take it in (sometime next month). The pilot lights easily, relights easily after going out. Does not seem to be a gas supply problem, as all burners light quickly and burn cleanly.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:42 PM   #6
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This is a bump.

Are you still having this problem?

According to the manual for your oven, the pilot may not stay on after the main burner lights. Normal operation for your oven is for the main burner flame to reduce in size (NOT go out) while the oven is in use and reaches the set temperature. (See oven burner operation para 2b.) This is normal for this type of oven thermostat.

As to para 3 "To Shut Down the Burner," Turn the Oven Control knob clockwise to "Pilot ON." In this position, the main burner will go off, but the pilot will remain lit.

As to Para 4 "To shut down the Pilot," Simply turn the control to OFF.

If the Main Burner GOES OUT when the oven comes up to temperature, this is a gas supply, orifice, or air supply issue and nothing to do with the pilot light.


Hope this helps.
Herk
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Old 02-21-2014, 04:21 PM   #7
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Lou

Thanks for the bump.

Yes we are aware of the expected operation that when it reaches set temp the flame on the main burner is supposed to go down, allowing the losses through the oven walls to cause an overall internal temperature drop below the set temp +/- some tolerance, before the still-lit pilot re-fires the main burner.

This is not happening. Instead a soft pop-pop-pop sound is heard (likely the main burner trying to re-light but going out; suggestive of fuel starvation) before the safety system kicks in and shuts off the gas completely.

I am making an appointment to bring it to the dealer (which is my last resort as I hardly trust their competence) and have them look at it under warranty. Someone should have the headache since I paid good money for this RV and don't expect this pain.
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2014 Flagstaff Super Lite 27RLWS Emerald Edition | Equal-i-zer 1200/12,000 4-point WDH
2010 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3L | K&N filter | Hypertech Max Energy tune | Prodigy P3
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Old 02-21-2014, 04:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wmoses View Post
Lou

Thanks for the bump.

Yes we are aware of the expected operation that when it reaches set temp the flame on the main burner is supposed to go down, allowing the losses through the oven walls to cause an overall internal temperature drop below the set temp +/- some tolerance, before the still-lit pilot re-fires the main burner.

This is not happening. Instead a soft pop-pop-pop sound is heard (likely the main burner trying to re-light but going out; suggestive of fuel starvation) before the safety system kicks in and shuts off the gas completely.

I am making an appointment to bring it to the dealer (which is my last resort as I hardly trust their competence) and have them look at it under warranty. Someone should have the headache since I paid good money for this RV and don't expect this pain.
As I stated, the pilot is not what keeps the burner lit as the burner is never supposed to go out when in use. Sounds like you have another loose gas feed line (as your PM stated you had with the range cooktop).

The main burner is not supposed to "re-light" since it is NOT supposed to go out at all. Your pilot is working as designed, but your main burner is not. It is possible that grease or carbon has fouled the metering jet.

If it is still under warranty I would take it back. You can also check to see if there is a Suburban Warranty dealership nearby. I once had a Dometic issue and really did not want to drive an hour each way to have it looked at. Turns out that by going to the Dometic website a warranty site was almost literally across the street!
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
The main burner is not supposed to "re-light" since it is NOT supposed to go out at all. Your pilot is working as designed, but your main burner is not. It is possible that grease or carbon has fouled the metering jet.

If it is still under warranty I would take it back. You can also check to see if there is a Suburban Warranty dealership nearby. I once had a Dometic issue and really did not want to drive an hour each way to have it looked at. Turns out that by going to the Dometic website a warranty site was almost literally across the street!
Agreed that the main burner is not supposed to have to be re-lit. What I meant is that it sounds like that is what is being attempted, but that was not how I wrote it. The pilot is only designed to light the main burner from an "off"state.

The stove is new and was doing this from the start so I doubt that the jet was fouled.

I like the idea about the possible Suburban service centre, especially if it is closer and easier to get into than the Flagstaff dealership. I will have to make some calls.
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2014 Flagstaff Super Lite 27RLWS Emerald Edition | Equal-i-zer 1200/12,000 4-point WDH
2010 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3L | K&N filter | Hypertech Max Energy tune | Prodigy P3
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:14 AM   #10
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Suburban store - right rear burner disconnected

Another issue I had with this stove was with the right near burner. If you are interested in my fix see here.
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2014 Flagstaff Super Lite 27RLWS Emerald Edition | Equal-i-zer 1200/12,000 4-point WDH
2010 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3L | K&N filter | Hypertech Max Energy tune | Prodigy P3
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