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Old 05-24-2015, 07:29 PM   #1
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A/C runs for hours in 80 , 85 degree temps.

We have a 3 week old 8528ikws parked in Ky. The A/C runs for hours with out a cycle. Dealer says it is working like it should. Anyone else having this kind of problem? Dealer says he upgraded to a 15000 btu unit. My first post did not have much info.
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:48 PM   #2
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Our AC did something similar. It's a '15 27RLWS WITH A 15K BTU unit. Turns out we had too many electronic devices turned on simultaneously. We were drawing too many amps and the AC compressor was shutting off but the fan continued to run. Is your unit still running cold all the time? Or just cool?
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:59 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by kyman View Post
We have a 3 week old 8528ikws parked in Ky. The A/C runs for hours with out a cycle. Dealer says it is working like it should. Anyone else having this kind of problem? Dealer says he upgraded to a 15000 btu unit. My first post did not have much info.
To get the unit to cycle, I set my thermostat to 10 degrees below outside air temperature. The unit needs to cycle in order to dehumidify and not ice up.

I have to add that 90 is the max setting we used even in temps above 100.

Setting the thermostat too low will cause frost to build up on the fins and the ice detector will shut down the compressor. This happens a lot with 15K BTU air conditioners like our Coleman Mach III. (Yes, the fan continues to run in this scenario. After the ice melts, the compressor will start up automatically, but the ice will form again repeating the cycle.)

Another cause of cycling problems is leakage of cold air into the intake plenum. If the barrier between the intake plenum and the forced air exit duct is not sealed properly, the colder air going into the intake plenum may "trick" the frost sensor into thinking the cooling fins are frosted when they are not. Again, this will shut the compressor off, yet leave the fan running.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:20 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info

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Originally Posted by Brazealnut4 View Post
Our AC did something similar. It's a '15 27RLWS WITH A 15K BTU unit. Turns out we had too many electronic devices turned on simultaneously. We were drawing too many amps and the AC compressor was shutting off but the fan continued to run. Is your unit still running cold all the time? Or just cool?
We are not near the 8528 right now, will be back at it in July. Dealer said they would check it, I just want some info to see if they are checking what they should. We are sort of new, just our 2nd one also we do not pull it.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:24 PM   #5
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Amps

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Originally Posted by Brazealnut4 View Post
Our AC did something similar. It's a '15 27RLWS WITH A 15K BTU unit. Turns out we had too many electronic devices turned on simultaneously. We were drawing too many amps and the AC compressor was shutting off but the fan continued to run. Is your unit still running cold all the time? Or just cool?
It was still a little cold, about 50degrees. Dealer will check it out when we get back. Thanks for your reply.
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:08 PM   #6
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Check the thermostat and be sure the fan is set to auto and not hi or low.
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:32 PM   #7
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We have a 3 week old 8528ikws parked in Ky. The A/C runs for hours with out a cycle. Dealer says it is working like it should. Anyone else having this kind of problem? Dealer says he upgraded to a 15000 btu unit. My first post did not have much info.
Do you have the brown colored outside? We have the same trailer and noticed a difference in both the AC and our refrigerator especially when the sun was hitting the ODS of the camper. We only have the 13,500 BTU AC so that makes cooling harder. I would not have the darker exterior on our next trailer, and would specify either a second AC or the 15,000 BTU model
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:58 PM   #8
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There are very few situations where the units shold "ice up" I was an HVAC mechanic, and if this happens it is usually for two reasons.
1. Cold air coming from the vents is "short cycling", meaning that the cold air doesn't actually get into the living space, instead it blows out, and then is taken up immediately by the return duct. This blows cold air into what should be warm air (the return)
2. The unit is low on gas. Low pressure inside the unit causes the boiling point of the gas to be so low that it gets below freezing point and the dew point, causing water to form on the coils (condensation like water on a cold water glass on your table), which turns to ice on the coils. That ice blocks the flow of air and makes the unit ineffective at either cooling or dehumidifying.

Feeling cool is not just temperature, it is humidity. A unit has to run long enough to remove excess moisture from the air as well as cool the air. Air from an AC that is too cold will not remove moisture, it will just feel like a damp and cold basement or cave. A nicely cooled room will always feel "just right", no matter what the thermometer says it is. For example, a warmer room with a lower humidity will feel better than a colder room with higher humidity.
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Old 05-25-2015, 01:20 PM   #9
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If the temperature at your supply air is about 15 degrees cooler than the return air is...it's doing as well as expected.
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Old 05-25-2015, 01:52 PM   #10
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When temperature is hot and humidity high, don't run your A/C Fan on auto, run it on High. This will help keep your coils from icing up and make your unit a lot more efficient. The fan will run constantly, but the compressor will run as needed. In the evening, when the temperature drops, switch the fan control back to auto.
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Old 05-25-2015, 02:31 PM   #11
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All RV's come with gaping holes to let unwanted outside air in.

1. Close off the laundry chute with foam insulation board
2. Close off air circulation into the cargo areas. (Lots of places where that happens.)
3. Seal up every crack and crevice you can find with "Great Stuff"... this is an all day project.
4. Get some of those "vent cushion" things. They work!
5. Keep unwanted sunlight (and heat) from coming into the trailer.
6. Try to park on a shaded site.
7. Keep your roof clean (as in reflective shiny white)
8. Shower at the bath house to keep humidity down.
9. Cook outside in the heat as much as you can stand it.

By making these mods we are able to stay cool with a 13500 BTU unit in a 30ft 5th wheel in the Georgia heat. Remember your a/c will only drop the internal temp about 20 degrees relative to outside. It just gets real inefficient about 95 deg.

Cool is relative.
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Old 05-25-2015, 03:31 PM   #12
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I have a 2015 Rockwoood 2608 ws. I have experienced the same problem down here in south Florida where it's pretty hot and humid already. But after hours if running I push the thermostat up to 85 and it still keeps running. I get up in the middle of the night to turn it off b/c we're freezing. I'm suspecting a thermostat issue. I hear rv ones are pretty cheap and many are replaced with a digital home unit. Sounds easy but since the rv is new and under warranty, I'd better let the dealer check it out which is another 1/2 hr drive then to go up and pick it. That is unless I get advice here that solves my problem. Thanks
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Old 05-25-2015, 03:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomrob1161 View Post
When temperature is hot and humidity high, don't run your A/C Fan on auto, run it on High. This will help keep your coils from icing up and make your unit a lot more efficient. The fan will run constantly, but the compressor will run as needed. In the evening, when the temperature drops, switch the fan control back to auto.
I agree
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:52 PM   #14
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Remember you are not at home and your TT is not as insulated. Also depends on campsite as to whether you have a lot of shade or little shade. I was on the SC coast this weekend and pretty much in the open. Set my thermostat on 75 and my AC worked with no problem. Temps reached the lower to mid 80's each day. We left door open each day with screen open.
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomrob1161 View Post
When temperature is hot and humidity high, don't run your A/C Fan on auto, run it on High. This will help keep your coils from icing up and make your unit a lot more efficient. The fan will run constantly, but the compressor will run as needed. In the evening, when the temperature drops, switch the fan control back to auto.
The A/C fan will run high in auto till the temp gets to within about 4 degrees of selected temp and then switches to low. Don't see any advantage to not run in auto.
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:58 PM   #16
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Keep the cold air falling out the ceiling vents stirred up with fans. This is very important as there is not much to help temps inside if you are camped out in the full sun. I used the Gila window film from Lowes with the highest heat rejection and it made a HUGE difference especially in our slide out area.
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