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Old 08-31-2015, 02:11 PM   #11
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You can run both a/c's on 30 amp (at least I can do it), but you need to monitor the voltage. With an EMS if the voltage gets too low the power will be shut off to protect the a/c units. The OP could have been operating on a low voltage situation, thus not cooling efficiently.
The OP says he was drawing 31 amps so guessing he had some kind of surge protector to tell this. If the voltage dropped to low it is possible both AC units could run but one of the compressors could have become locked out. It could run but only the fan would operate so iit would not do any cooling. That would be my guess as to what happened.

Jim
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:59 PM   #12
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Thanks for your replies everyone, I use a Progressive Industries Surge protector which did save me a few months ago from a 105 volt park problem. It shows as high as 34 amps being used when both units are running wide open, voltage drops to as low as 119 volts. I have a digital electricians thermometer that I used and the air coming out the vents was about 65 to 71 degrees, so I took the inside covers off and shot my meter straight into the fan on each unit. The 13.5 unit stabilized at 15 degrees F and the 15 unit at 25 degrees F. I think the units are working just fine, but I was hoping the 832IKBS would handle hot weather much better than it did from a cooling stand point. I will be hooking to a 50 amp outlet this weekend and will update my post IF that makes any difference. Thanks again.
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Old 08-31-2015, 03:06 PM   #13
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Most breakers are designed for 60 to 80% load as opposed to running 100%. Running 2 AC'S when the voltage drops increases the current. Eventually something will give and either a connector or wire will burn off.
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:46 PM   #14
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Relative humidity makes a big difference in the discharge air temperature. Air conditioning 101.
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:25 PM   #15
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Most breakers are designed for 60 to 80% load as opposed to running 100%. Running 2 AC'S when the voltage drops increases the current. Eventually something will give and either a connector or wire will burn off.

So at 60-80% load on a 30 amp breaker, you're saying they should "blow" at 18-24amps? If that is the case, we are all in trouble.


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Old 08-31-2015, 07:31 PM   #16
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And the next thing we will hear is my air does not work. Probably blew it up and want to blame the manufacture. Later RJD
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:01 AM   #17
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Ron, the adapter bridges (or jumps) the single 120 volt hot leg to both L1 and L2, when hooking a 50 amp 120/240 up to a 120 30 amp outlet. The 30 amps is shared on both L1 and L2 in the RV.

This was what got our buddy Bombdoc in trouble, if you recall that evening we were trying to get it figured out. He had used an adapter for his 50 amp RV to hook to a 240 volt 30 amp 3 wire outlet instead of a 120 volt 30 amp outlet.

Here is a schematic showing this:

Great diagram.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:57 AM   #18
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Most breakers are designed for 60 to 80% load as opposed to running 100%. Running 2 AC'S when the voltage drops increases the current. Eventually something will give and either a connector or wire will burn off.
That's only in Canada.. If the power got to low he would trip the breaker and also go off on internal overload. You don't want that. The unit has to shut down fan and all and some times it can take up to 24 hrs to reset.. I never condemend a compressor unless it showed a dead short. I would go back the next day and re-ohm the windings to see if they reset or still showed open on my meter, meaning you burnt up the internal overload...
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:00 AM   #19
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That is correct, and running draw on both a/c's is usually around 26amps. I still argue, if voltage drops the compressor will not be as effective.


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AquaMan you can argue all you want. The SEER rating will not drop from voltage. That's like saying if my unit is gettig 125 volts it will be cooler. It doesn't work that way. also his unit didn't go off on internal overload, per the OP's reading. The truth is sorry to say that is all he can expect. I'm sure he doesn't want to hear that. If he's in Florida he better set it low in the morning to try and just keep up from the heat gain and humidity...One of the biggest complaints are cooling and heating an RV......
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:33 AM   #20
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So at 60-80% load on a 30 amp breaker, you're saying they should "blow" at 18-24amps? If that is the case, we are all in trouble.


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Line voltage breakers (household type) are designed to instantly trip at 100%, but at 80% they heat up and will eventually trip if the load stays there long enough.

Below that they should not get that hot enough to trip, unless it is getting old and weak. Then it is time to replace it. Yes, they do go bad in time.

I have also seen them go bad so they will not trip. If we had a receptacle we could not ID the breaker for we use to just short out the receptacle, then go see what breaker tripped. It was quicker than putting a line tracer on it. I did that one day and watched the wires start to smoke! No breaker tripped! Went and got the signal line tracer, fixed the problem and changed the breaker.

Jim
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