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09-01-2015, 09:38 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twobytwo97
Thanks for your replies everyone, I use a Progressive Industries Surge protector which did save me a few months ago from a 105 volt park problem. It shows as high as 34 amps being used when both units are running wide open, voltage drops to as low as 119 volts. I have a digital electricians thermometer that I used and the air coming out the vents was about 65 to 71 degrees, so I took the inside covers off and shot my meter straight into the fan on each unit. The 13.5 unit stabilized at 15 degrees F and the 15 unit at 25 degrees F. I think the units are working just fine, but I was hoping the 832IKBS would handle hot weather much better than it did from a cooling stand point. I will be hooking to a 50 amp outlet this weekend and will update my post IF that makes any difference. Thanks again.
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One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is to use the vents. When the trailer gets hot open them and leave the heat go out them. Heat rises, cold air drops. This will help cool the trailer better and quicker.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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09-01-2015, 12:48 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtool2
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is to use the vents. When the trailer gets hot open them and leave the heat go out them. Heat rises, cold air drops. This will help cool the trailer better and quicker.
Jim
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I'll try this as well, thanks. Also do I run the create a breeze fan for a short while too?
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09-01-2015, 12:51 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aceinspp
And the next thing we will hear is my air does not work. Probably blew it up and want to blame the manufacture. Later RJD
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Me? Sorry if I confused anyone but I'm not complaining about the trailer itself, it was just so hot in there I was worried something may be wrong. I assure you I did blow up anything in the coach.
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09-01-2015, 01:29 PM
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#24
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtool2
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is to use the vents. When the trailer gets hot open them and leave the heat go out them. Heat rises, cold air drops. This will help cool the trailer better and quicker.
Jim
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Becareful tho if your vent is near an a/c register you'll get condensation on the ceiling.
TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "24 nights"
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09-01-2015, 01:33 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twobytwo97
I'll try this as well, thanks. Also do I run the create a breeze fan for a short while too?
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That would not hurt. Anything that will help remove the excess heat and help cool down the trailer.
Think of your AC as a circle. It is drawing in the hot air and cooling it down a little then spitting it out to the trailer. Then it draws that air in, cools it down a little and kicks it out again. It keeps doing this till it reaches where you have the stat set to then shuts off.
We use to tell people you could expect a 10 degree difference after an hour. Of course this depends on how big your AC unit is and how hot it was when you start. The cooler the trailer is to start with the better off you are so get the heat out any way you can!
And remember cool air drops and hot air rises. So let the hot air out.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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09-01-2015, 01:36 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBS
Becareful tho if your vent is near an a/c register you'll get condensation on the ceiling.
TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "24 nights"
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True but not if you only do it for a few hours to get down to the stat temp. Then it is time to close everything back up.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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09-01-2015, 02:46 PM
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#27
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Phat Phrog Stunt Crew
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upper Penisula Michigan / Arizona
Posts: 2,767
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OPPS! I just went out to my RV to load it up for the long weekend and decided to cool it down from 90 degrees. So with my 30 amp garage hook up I turned on both A/Cs and left. Wouldn't you know the first thread I see was this one about two A/Cs on a 50 to 30 amp dogbone. Read a little, then decided to check my A/Cs. After a half hour of running, the temp dropped 12-15 degrees and both units were running strong. But I did shut one down just in case.
__________________
Ed & Ruthann / Toby and Tucker
2014 GMC Sierra Crewcab 2500 Duramax
2014 Wildcat 327ck
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09-01-2015, 04:47 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 21
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09-01-2015, 09:28 PM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 42
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I ran both of mine on a 30 amp pedestal back in June. Didn't turn on anything else while both were on. If needed anything else just kicked one to fan and did my business. Had no issue keeping her cold.
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09-01-2015, 10:41 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 2,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grisham91402
I ran both of mine on a 30 amp pedestal back in June. Didn't turn on anything else while both were on. If needed anything else just kicked one to fan and did my business. Had no issue keeping her cold.
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I hope that on a hot day, especially, you keep and eye on your voltage. Overloading a line may not blow the breaker, but that, and a whole bunch of RVs in a row running air on park power will surely pull the voltage down and then things labor harder and run hotter and less efficiently; until no tell when but surely they will fail prematurely. Progressive Dynamic power protector, Hughes voltage manager or at least A BIG VOLT METER.
Good luck out there. Tom
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09-02-2015, 12:22 PM
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#31
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 21
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I just went ahead and ran both units wide open all night with the thermostat set at 55 which was as low as it could go, the units hit 55 at some point and shut off in the middle of the night, this morning at 6am it was 56 inside the coach, at 12 noon today it was 67 or 21 degrees below outside temp, I have one more test for tonight at about 4 or 6pm and I'll see what that reading is. I'm starting to feel a little better about my original problem with all of you giving some great tips, thank you! I think as one of you posted, its possible I was paying so much attention to the amps at the park that I completely missed the voltage which may well have been a part of my problem. We have plans to add a voltage regulator because of the problem we ran into a few months ago with 105 volt situation at a park we were at. That should keep my voltage always at 120 or 122 even when we are all overloading the park power.
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