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03-28-2019, 07:18 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 164
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Anode rods....really?
Spring has sprung here in New Mexico. Been getting the Flagstaff ready to go for the summer. One job I always end up cussing at is re-installing the anode rod. First, with all the hard water there is the white 'chalk' coating the treads and then just getting the rod back in always ends in a wrestling match.
Can't they make these water heaters so it is easier to service them? Is there some sort of secret handshake to doing this that I'm not aware of?
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03-28-2019, 07:22 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,695
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Suburban sent us some video guides on their water heaters awhile back that we keep at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...es-135977.html
This first one (copied below) may give you some ideas on what to do with the threads ti make it easier to install the anode rod:
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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03-28-2019, 07:36 AM
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#3
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,051
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It can sometimes be a bit challenging replacing the anode rod if the threads are a bit corroded. Often times I read of folks removing the rod when winterizing and leaving it out till spring and then installing it when getting ready for the season.
I never do that. When I remove mine in the fall to winterize, I flush the water heater and reinstall the rod. No need to drag the 2nd step out until spring and no chance for the threads to get corroded.
As in the video, I use a small wire brush to clean the threads. After prepping the anode rod with Teflon tape I sometimes use my thumb, pushing on the face of the rod plug to overcome the counterbalanced weight of the rod sticking into the tank.
If you have a good fitting socket, you can also place a thin piece of paper across the open socket end, push the anode rod into the socket and then use the socket to install the rod. The paper will hold the anode rod tightly for insertion. You lose a bit of the "feel" of the threads this way but it does make aligning the anode rod simpler.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=64
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03-28-2019, 11:23 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 164
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Wonder how many trys it took the dude in the video to 'hit' the anode install on the first attempt like it implies. I have never been that lucky.
5picker... I'll try that socket trick the next time I'm in there, though it seems they could make the whole process much easier if they'd just put in a more convenient location. I've always left the rod out over the winter so things can dry out completely.
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03-28-2019, 11:44 AM
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#5
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Kanadian Kamper
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 8,113
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I’m not sure where you’d prefer they locate the anode to be a more convenient location. It’s pretty much centre, and it’s at the bottom of the tank to allow it to drain as much as possible.
The biggest problem is holding the head of the anode KNOWING it’s unbalanced for its entire weight, which means you have to angle it slightly upwards as you hold it to keep it perpendicular to the tank wall and the threads to secure it.
Just practice.
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
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03-28-2019, 11:57 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,473
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I must be doing something wrong. I don’t have any trouble starting my anode rod (in 4 different trailers) using nothing but my fingers.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
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03-28-2019, 11:59 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldodge
Wonder how many trys it took the dude in the video to 'hit' the anode install on the first attempt like it implies. I have never been that lucky.
5picker... I'll try that socket trick the next time I'm in there, though it seems they could make the whole process much easier if they'd just put in a more convenient location. I've always left the rod out over the winter so things can dry out completely.
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That is Mark Polk in the video. If you are not familiar with him, he has a RV repair company, as well as a lot of repair/RV how-to materials. Super nice guy.You can Google him.
As much experience as Mark has, he probably got it the first try.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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03-28-2019, 12:01 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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I use a 12 pt 1/2" drive socket. Get a 2-3-4" squareish piece of paper.. lay over socket opening and push head of anode rod(hex part) into socket. Paper will tighten the fit to the socket. Presto..use extension and stab her in.
__________________
2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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03-28-2019, 12:01 PM
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#9
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Kanadian Kamper
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 8,113
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Add all the site team members expertise together.....and they’re almost as good as Mark. Almost.
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
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03-28-2019, 12:03 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
It can sometimes be a bit challenging replacing the anode rod if the threads are a bit corroded. Often times I read of folks removing the rod when winterizing and leaving it out till spring and then installing it when getting ready for the season.
I never do that. When I remove mine in the fall to winterize, I flush the water heater and reinstall the rod. No need to drag the 2nd step out until spring and no chance for the threads to get corroded.
As in the video, I use a small wire brush to clean the threads. After prepping the anode rod with Teflon tape I sometimes use my thumb, pushing on the face of the rod plug to overcome the counterbalanced weight of the rod sticking into the tank.
If you have a good fitting socket, you can also place a thin piece of paper across the open socket end, push the anode rod into the socket and then use the socket to install the rod. The paper will hold the anode rod tightly for insertion. You lose a bit of the "feel" of the threads this way but it does make aligning the anode rod simpler.
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Duhhh I see your socket advice X2
__________________
2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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03-28-2019, 12:09 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 5,712
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Swap out the WH for a Glass lined WH. I think that's what I'm going to do. No more Anode Rod.
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03-28-2019, 12:18 PM
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#12
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry
Add all the site team members expertise together.....and they’re almost as good as Mark. Almost.
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Almost works for horseshoes, hand grenades and drive-in movies. Now I gotta add site team members to the list, that's going too far.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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03-28-2019, 12:19 PM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry
Add all the site team members expertise together.....and they’re almost as good as Mark. Almost.
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Can't speak for the rest of the team, but Mark probably forgot more about RV's yesterday than I ever knew.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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03-28-2019, 12:22 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82
Swap out the WH for a Glass lined WH. I think that's what I'm going to do. No more Anode Rod.
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Suburban water heaters are porcelain lined, and still need such.
https://www.airxcel.com/suburban/products/water-heaters
Atwood's are aluminum tank, thus no need.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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03-28-2019, 12:26 PM
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#15
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Kanadian Kamper
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 8,113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
Can't speak for the rest of the team, but Mark probably forgot more about RV's yesterday than I ever knew.
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......yeah but can he KLR as good you too?
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
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03-28-2019, 12:30 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
It can sometimes be a bit challenging replacing the anode rod if the threads are a bit corroded. Often times I read of folks removing the rod when winterizing and leaving it out till spring and then installing it when getting ready for the season.
I never do that. When I remove mine in the fall to winterize, I flush the water heater and reinstall the rod. No need to drag the 2nd step out until spring and no chance for the threads to get corroded.
As in the video, I use a small wire brush to clean the threads. After prepping the anode rod with Teflon tape I sometimes use my thumb, pushing on the face of the rod plug to overcome the counterbalanced weight of the rod sticking into the tank.
If you have a good fitting socket, you can also place a thin piece of paper across the open socket end, push the anode rod into the socket and then use the socket to install the rod. The paper will hold the anode rod tightly for insertion. You lose a bit of the "feel" of the threads this way but it does make aligning the anode rod simpler.
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X2, and to clarify, just the socket with a thin piece of paper to snug the anode nut in the socket. Never start with the ratchet attached or cross-threading may occur.
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03-28-2019, 12:33 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldodge
Wonder how many trys it took the dude in the video to 'hit' the anode install on the first attempt like it implies. I have never been that lucky.
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I imagine he’s done it a time or two unless, like you say, they had to do a few takes before they got the shot of him nailing it right away.
The key is nice, clean threads on both the male and female sides, and pipe dope instead of PTFE tape — especially if you go nuts on the number of wraps of tape. The pipe dope will give you a better feel for when the threads are mated correctly.
After you’ve done it a few times, it will be easier for you. Installing an anode rod on a Suburban water heater is a little easier than replacing an element on a residential water heater, but I have done so many element replacements, I can’t remember the last time I drained the tank to replace one — I just draw a partial vacuum on the tank and swap them out fast. You have to hit the threads on the first shot or you make a wet mess. My point is; it just takes practice.
Bruce
__________________
2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond Edition
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
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03-28-2019, 12:34 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 5,712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
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Thank you.....I put that whole thing Bass Akwards.
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03-28-2019, 12:52 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 5,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldodge
Can't they make these water heaters so it is easier to service them?
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My thought, it would be a bit easier to service if the opening was a bit larger on the bottom side. Give a bit more room to get a hand in there.
__________________
Al
I am starting to think, that I will never be old enough--------to know better.
Tolerance will reach such a level that intelligent people will be banned from thinking so as not to offend the imbeciles. Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoevsky, Russian Novelist
S.E. Mich. Flagstaff 26FKWS / 2022 F-150 3.5 EcoBoost SCrew Propride
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03-28-2019, 02:35 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 164
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SailorSam20500....my point exactly. Just because they have built them that way (low, recessed, cramped space) since dirt doesn't mean they have to be that way. Move them out a bit, provide a little room for a hand. Would that be so difficult? Been RVing over 20 years, have had plenty of 'practice' with anode rods. Still find it a pain.
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