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Old 04-25-2016, 09:18 AM   #1
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Blocks for stabilizers and landing gears?

The reason why I'm asking is that I was told 2 different things. One tech told me never to use any blocks for landing gears the other tech told me to use 6" by 6" or 8" by 8" blocks for both landing gears and stabilizers. This gives more support as it shortens the extension leading to more stabilization. We have the Flagstaff 8528 IKWS. Who do I listen to?
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:22 AM   #2
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It also gives the jack a larger footprint which is important on a grass surface.I have a variaty of different sizes in a milk crate in the back of the truck.
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:42 AM   #3
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The "Thickness Thread" of Block's / Pad's has been beat to Death here! I do find it Courteous to Use Block's/Pad's between your jacks and any surface to prevent Damage to the Campsite surface,be it "Concrete,Black top,dirt",think of the "Next Guy"! Youroo!!
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:44 AM   #4
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It also gives the jack a larger footprint which is important on a grass surface.I have a variaty of different sizes in a milk crate in the back of the truck.
Now I want milk crates. I currently use totes with lids and they are a little annoying but handy. I carry different sizes with me, mostly 2x6 in various lengths.
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:52 AM   #5
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I use blocks / pads under everything, mainly when I'm on dirt to give things a wider foot print. It's possible when the guy said not to use them on landing gear, he was thinking about the gear slipping off if the blocks were too narrow. Due to the weight on them, I'd make sure there was a pretty good sized margin of error in case something did shift.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:46 AM   #6
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I do not use over 6 inches to avoid an unstable situation.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:52 AM   #7
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I always used the Lynx Levelers a.k.a. "lego blocks" under my stabilizers.

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Old 04-25-2016, 11:52 AM   #8
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I bought the snap pads for my Cardinal 3250. I've installed them but haven't used them yet. Lots of good reviews though so I'm anxious to try them out.
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:00 PM   #9
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Large lego works great, plus a few pieces of 2x8s.
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:26 PM   #10
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I use 4 X 6 wood blocks under the front landing jacks and 2 X 6 wood blocks for the rear scissor jacks. I chock wheels front and rear both sides. I see others using the plastic pads and they deteriorate rapidly. The wood is a bit heavier, but safer.
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:43 PM   #11
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I had some LVL beam material left over. dense material less compression. and it happens to be painted yellow so i can't forget it in the green grass.
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:10 PM   #12
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I see others using the plastic pads and they deteriorate rapidly.
My blocks are close to 15 years old and still look great. I've never seen any deterioration of them.
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:18 PM   #13
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we use teh lynx levelers as well and have since 2011. we crushed one but thats it.
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Old 04-25-2016, 04:33 PM   #14
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2x12 fits perfectly in a milk crate.Cut the 12" long and you can get 10 of them in there standing on end.
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Old 04-25-2016, 04:57 PM   #15
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Will only use blocks if stab jacks won't reach the ground. So far, it's never happened in 50+ yrs of camping. I carry Lynx blocks in the bed of the truck but have never used them.
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:50 PM   #16
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Blocks will add stability broadening the base imprint . A note on using blocks under front jacks, ALWAYS put the blocks down to run the same as the trailer. I see too many people knock the trailer off the blocks when backing in to hook up or lock in their fifth wheel by putting the block cross way to the trailer.
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:58 PM   #17
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Blocks will add stability broadening the base imprint . A note on using blocks under front jacks, ALWAYS put the blocks down to run the same as the trailer. I see too many people knock the trailer off the blocks when backing in to hook up or lock in their fifth wheel by putting the block cross way to the trailer.
That is exactly why I leave the Bal X Chocks on until I get hitched. They are the first thing installed and the very last thing removed and stowed and only after the parking brake is engaged and the transmission is in park.
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Old 04-26-2016, 08:48 AM   #18
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Stability of stab jacks

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Will only use blocks if stab jacks won't reach the ground. So far, it's never happened in 50+ yrs of camping. I carry Lynx blocks in the bed of the truck but have never used them.
I recently read a post here that stated that the jacks were in their most stable position when extended over 12". This changed my thoughts on using blocking as I used them so I wouldn't have to crank as far. Since then I've got a bit for my cordless drill and use blocking sparingly.
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Old 04-26-2016, 09:10 AM   #19
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I recently read a post here that stated that the jacks were in their most stable position when extended over 12". This changed my thoughts on using blocking as I used them so I wouldn't have to crank as far. Since then I've got a bit for my cordless drill and use blocking sparingly.
This depends on the design of the jack/stabilizer.

Typical 'scissor' jacks are the most stable when the two upper arms and the two lower arms are extended far enough to form a square.

Stabilizer jacks (electric and manual) are the most stable when the cross arm (sometimes painted yellow/sometimes black) extends to the point where it forms a right angle with the ground contact leg.

Front landing gear/jacks on 5th wheels are most stable retracted, using the inner leg as the needed extension.

Sturdy blocking to get what is described for any of the above, will not affect stability.
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:22 AM   #20
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I had a PM to explain what I meant by the stab jacks forming a 90 right angle.
Here's a drawing I hope helps.
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