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Old 05-27-2018, 06:42 PM   #1
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Coleman Mach fan motor replacement

I have a 21' Flagstaff MicroLite FBRS. It has an Airxcel Coleman Mach AC in it. My fan is still working fine but I can hear a bearing becoming not a happy camper. It still glides for a good bit after it turns off. First is there any way to lubricate this thing? And if not, does anyone know a direct replace and a good place to get one? I have attached a picture of the motor tag and another of the assembly. thank you!
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Old 05-27-2018, 07:05 PM   #2
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I have a 21' Flagstaff MicroLite FBRS. It has an Airxcel Coleman Mach AC in it. My fan is still working fine but I can hear a bearing becoming not a happy camper. It still glides for a good bit after it turns off. First is there any way to lubricate this thing? And if not, does anyone know a direct replace and a good place to get one? I have attached a picture of the motor tag and another of the assembly. thank you!
Skeetzee, you may be able to oil the motor shaft on both sides of the motor. You will probably need a penetrating oil then some 3 In 1 oil. Unfortunately those type motors do not have replaceable bearings, just the cast brass slip bearing. If you can get oil into it, you may be able to get a few more seasons out of the motor. Once it seizes to the shaft, it's time to replace.
You should be able to get a replacement blower motor at an A/C supply business. You will need the H.P. size, the RPM and the Voltage & FLA. The new one will likely come with the start/run capacitor(s) and instructions on how to wire it up. Also you may have a couple of extra wires to reverse the motor rotation direction (CW or CCW).

The change out isn't difficult, just turn off the power and unbolt/re-bolt and unplug/re-plug wires to the motor. I replaced my condenser blower motor last spring on my 4 ton heat pump and it cost less than $100.

Good Luck on the repairs .... Swampy
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:57 PM   #3
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thank you..I know once it seizes it is toast..It is really still turning very freely still. I had it pretty much apart today and it looks easy to replace especially if you have 4 hands. Have to be careful not to punch the shaft through the cooling fins.
I assume the capacitor should be changed if the motor is changed..
You say use 'some penetrating oil then some 3 in one'..do you mean 2 different oils?
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:15 PM   #4
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thank you..I know once it seizes it is toast..It is really still turning very freely still. I had it pretty much apart today and it looks easy to replace especially if you have 4 hands. Have to be careful not to punch the shaft through the cooling fins.
I assume the capacitor should be changed if the motor is changed..
You say use 'some penetrating oil then some 3 in one'..do you mean 2 different oils?
If the 3-in-1 oil soaks in, you won't need any penetrating oil. I was suggesting the penetrating oil in case the thicker oil would not flow into the bearing. Yes, if you replace the motor it will usually come with a capacitor in the box. Capacitors are usually the least dependable electrical items with motors. If they fail, the motor locks rotor and overheats burning the windings. I believe your picture of the nameplate shows a 2.5 micro Farad capacitor. Chances are if you buy from Coleman, the capacitor may be extra. You will get the best price from an A/C supply house with a generic motor. If you do end up replacing it, bring the old motor with you when you go to the supply house and they can double check to match up the generic motor for you.

Good Luck ..... Swampy
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:26 PM   #5
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This is for a household A/C, but it might still apply:

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Old 05-27-2018, 09:37 PM   #6
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I hope Swampy means 7.5 micro farad capacitor. It just may be the picture but the fan blades look wacky. Can you grab hold of the shaft and see if it has up/down/side to side play. Did you try turning the fan slowly by hand and see if you feel or hear it rubbing? Check for mud dauber / hornets nest inside with a mirror .
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:58 PM   #7
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I hope Swampy means 7.5 micro farad capacitor. It just may be the picture but the fan blades look wacky. Can you grab hold of the shaft and see if it has up/down/side to side play. Did you try turning the fan slowly by hand and see if you feel or hear it rubbing? Check for mud dauber / hornets nest inside with a mirror .
Scrapper, Thanks! The old eyes aren't what they once were. I blew up the picture and sure enough it is 7.5uF. It is amazing what glaucoma takes away from you without you even realizing it's gone!

..... Swampy!
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Old 05-28-2018, 12:49 PM   #8
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Porous bronze

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Skeetzee, you may be able to oil the motor shaft on both sides of the motor. You will probably need a penetrating oil then some 3 In 1 oil. Unfortunately those type motors do not have replaceable bearings, just the cast brass slip bearing. If you can get oil into it, you may be able to get a few more seasons out of the motor. Once it seizes to the shaft, it's time to replace.

Good Luck on the repairs .... Swampy
Usually these sleeve bearings are cast bronze. At the time of manufacture, they are heated, then quenched in oil which fills the pores. As the motor warms, oil is released to provide lubrication.

Presumably, you could remove the bearings and re-do the process, but I wouldn't attempt it on a crimped-together motor like that one.

If it isn't too hard to remove the motor, you could take advantage of gravity. Put one shaft up and drizzle 20 weight or 30 weight oil around the shaft, spin the motor by hand and let it trickle in for an hour. Then invert and do the same thing to the other end.

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Old 05-28-2018, 12:57 PM   #9
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those blades are whacky because I loosened the fan blade to tilt it out a little bit. I did turn it by hand. It turns very nicely but I can hear a little rubbing going on. I noticed the 7.5 finger check. I did check for wasp activity and don't see any. Thanks for all the tips..
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:35 PM   #10
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I googled it. The cheapest I see one is $100 for a Fasco. No doubt better than OEM.
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