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Old 02-10-2013, 11:56 AM   #1
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Control panel

There are two switches on control panel, one water heater and one tank heater. What do each do?
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:18 PM   #2
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The Water heater switch lights up the gas water heater and the tank heater switch turns on the black and grey water tank heating pads that are on the underside of the tanks.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:27 PM   #3
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There are two switches on control panel, one water heater and one tank heater. What do each do?
Welcome to the forum.

Post number 2 tells the truth.


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Old 02-10-2013, 01:28 PM   #4
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If you run your water heater on electric, that switch is located ON THE HEATER TANK itself, accessible through the access door on the side of the unit. If on electric, you don't need to turn on the water heater GAS switch on the panel, but doing so will make your water get hot quicker.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:08 PM   #5
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And make sure you have water in your tank BEFORE you turn it on electric - or the electric heater will blow out in 8 seconds.

Maybe we should start over.

You can heat your water one of two ways -propane or electric. Turn on the inside switch that says water heater and that is the propane. It works just fine and if you turn it on without water - no biggie.

You can also turn on the electric heater for your water heater. That you go outside the RV to the water heater cover, remove that and fine an upside down switch hidden (ours is lower left corner). It's hidden b/c you don't want to turn it on on accident.

You can also run both at the same time and your water will heat back up more quickly.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:20 PM   #6
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To add to road trips post you must also purge air from hw heater while filling it.
Either through a facet or the pressure relief valve on hw heater.
Personally I do it through the pr valve.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:22 PM   #7
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Here.

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Old 02-10-2013, 06:17 PM   #8
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To add to road trips post you must also purge air from hw heater while filling it.
Either through a facet or the pressure relief valve on hw heater.
Personally I do it through the pr valve.
really???

Ummm, I'm asking for a friend. Let's say this friend just hooks up shore water, turns it on and then turns on the electric hw heater.

Some few minutes to hours later, my friend might turn on a faucet to make sure water is warming.

What is this purging while filling you speak of? My friend says.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:17 PM   #9
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Initially, the water heater and water lines are "empty", actually filled with air. When you connect to shore water, or use the water in your fresh water tank and pump, you must replace the air in the tank and lines with water by opening a faucet (or the pressure relief valve for the heater only). This is called purging the system.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:22 PM   #10
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really???

Ummm, I'm asking for a friend. Let's say this friend just hooks up shore water, turns it on and then turns on the electric hw heater.

Some few minutes to hours later, my friend might turn on a faucet to make sure water is warming.

What is this purging while filling you speak of? My friend says.
well that depends on whether the system was truly dry to start with. During the season, we typically do not drain our system between trips, so the hot water heater is never really empty.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:35 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by RoadTrip View Post

really???

Ummm, I'm asking for a friend. Let's say this friend just hooks up shore water, turns it on and then turns on the electric hw heater.

Some few minutes to hours later, my friend might turn on a faucet to make sure water is warming.

What is this purging while filling you speak of? My friend says.
As mathsub said.


Only normally needed to when you de winterize if you do such a thing.

I drain my hw tank after each camping trip "its what I do" especially if not going to be used for weeks on end.

I have and most camp grounds are well water and I got the "rotten" egg smell.

I started draining my hw tank after each use and it never been back.


Turbs.

Btw really this to your "friend"
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:40 PM   #12
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Just a note about opening the Pressure and Relief Valve on the water heater.

NOT A GOOD IDEA

Two reasons. #1 When you do that, if you have hard water, the salts from the water can collect on the seat of the valve resulting in it not completely sealing and leaking. #2 There is an air space in the top of the water heater, even when it's completely full, that allows for expansion as the water heats up. Opening the P&T Valve, since it's at the very top of the water heater, allows water to replace some of the air at the top reducing the buffer.

Better to open a hot water tap inside (or the outside shower hot water tap) to ensure the water heater is full and avoid burning out the electric element.

Just my $0.02

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Old 02-13-2013, 03:44 PM   #13
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Just a note about opening the Pressure and Relief Valve on the water heater.

NOT A GOOD IDEA

Two reasons. #1 When you do that, if you have hard water, the salts from the water can collect on the seat of the valve resulting in it not completely sealing and leaking. #2 There is an air space in the top of the water heater, even when it's completely full, that allows for expansion as the water heats up. Opening the P&T Valve, since it's at the very top of the water heater, allows water to replace the air at the top reducing the buffer.

Better to open a hot water tap inside (or the outside shower hot water tap) to ensure the water heater is full and avoid burning out the electric element.

Just my $0.02

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After 13 years of doing this I have not had any issues .

Your results may vary .


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Old 02-13-2013, 04:04 PM   #14
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While there is a remote possibility that bits of anode material or calcium could get lodged in the pressure relief valve, it is a 100% probability that you will destroy the electric element if you turn it on without water in the tank. It is about a very good probability you will burn out the high limit thermostat if you run the gas without water in the tank.

Opening a faucet to check is a bad technique since if the water heater is bypassed, you will get (cold) water under pressure from the hot water faucets. By the time you figure out that the water is not getting hot, the damage will be done.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:15 PM   #15
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Good point Turk.

I've never had a bypass on any of the RVs that I owned, so didn't think of that.

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Old 02-13-2013, 04:16 PM   #16
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Good point Turk.

I've never had a bypass on any of the RVs that I owned, so didn't think of that.

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Lol "Turk"
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:24 PM   #17
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Lol "Turk"
Better than "Jerk" that Apple products substitute.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:02 PM   #18
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Better than "Jerk" that Apple products substitute.
Android makes the same substitution.

After I called you jerk I fixed it!
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:00 PM   #19
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Hmmm....you've all given my friend alot to think about.

Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:01 PM   #20
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After I hook up water at a campsite, I always give it a few minutes and then use the pressure valve to make sure I'm getting water in the hot water tank. Once it gives me a good squirt, I will then - and only then - turn on the water heater switch.

I've also found that when draining the tank - after removing the anode rod - I don't get much of a stream running out unless I activate the pressure valve.
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