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Old 07-22-2014, 07:13 PM   #11
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Take or break the motor/gearbox off and use a elect.driver on the other end! They will go up/down 10x faster! Youroo!! Had to run ours this way when the (Road Alligator) took off the motor/gearbox!
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timex View Post
Trying again.

This is for the rear stabs. Behind a false wall on the farthest curb side corner.
That shortstop is damaged and needs to be replaced.

Temp fix; bypass it by putting both wires on the same terminal.

Replace as soon as possible and do not run the motor until it stalls.
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:34 PM   #13
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Got it out

Got it out and figured out why it was corroded. We had a first aid kit from the previous TT and put it in a overhead cabinet. Something oily had leaked out and run down the wall till it got to the bottom compartment. Most of it had gotten soaked up by a cardboard box. Glad to know the exterior isn't leaking! Here is a few pics of the shortstop.

So if this is bad, would it cause the front stabs to not work as well?

Where can I get this? Auto parts store?
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:49 PM   #14
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Front stabs should have their own DC circuit.

Question, did the rear stabs work when you hooked the two wires together without the shortstop?

If they did not, there is more wrong than that bad fuse; the fuse in the power center might also have blown. It is possible the front and rear stabs come off the same fuse in the power center.

Check with a meter; do not trust your eyes to see if it is blown.
Your eyes can lie (just ask anyone in a bar at 2AM).
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:51 PM   #15
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UPDATE

Do you see anything odd in these pics?

I do believe gremlins are messing with me.

The 20 amp fuse has always been in the last position(that I remember). I don't remember moving it. I just know that power was not getting to the switch/motor. I cleaned up the shortstop with sandpaper and steel wool the best I could. It had continuity thru it so I didn't replace it. I connected both wires that went to it onto 1 of the posts. Reconnected battery and nothing. So I got to studying the fuse panel and thought what the heck, so I moved the 20 amp fuse up 1 slot to the "power jack" slot. Duh! Went out and touched the jack switch and lo and behold, we got power! Disconnected the battery again, repositioned the wires correctly on the shortstop, reconnected the battery and it worked again.

Like I said, I am getting older, and I may have put the fuse in the wrong slot (at 1 time) but I still think it worked like this before. I knew it had to be something simple that I was missing. And the last slot on the fuse panel said "bunkhouse". I don't have a bunkhouse!

Embarrassed is what I am. And thanks to all who tried to help and especially Herk for being patient.

I still may replace these electric jacks for scissor jacks, 1 day.
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:27 PM   #16
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Since that fuse powers both your stabilizers it makes sense that it is 20 amps.
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