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Old 07-22-2014, 03:59 PM   #1
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Dead Electric Stabs

I've read as many threads I could find on this subject.

I'm about ready to take these electric stabilizers off and replace them with scissor jacks. At least I know they'll work when I do.

Leaving on a trip in a few weeks so I thought I'd do a little testing to see if everything was working. Plugged my umbilical cord into the truck to check the running and brake lights. Good.

Had some friends over about a month ago that wanted to see inside the TT, so before they went in, I lowered the stabs to keep the rocking to a minimum. The stabs have been down for about a month. We've been in/out working on things and cleaning. This a.m., the stabs wouldn't go up/down, nothing. Not even a grunt!

I've checked all the fuses, breakers, current limiters I could find. There is no power getting to the switch.

From Lippert manual:
To manually operate the stabilizer jack, one of the
wire leads from the motor must be disconnected to prevent backloading the
motor and causing more damage.

Could I not just take the negative cable off the battery post?

I'm getting continuity thru the switch when I push the button up/down so I believe the switch is good. Found the fuse to the switch behind a false wall and it showed continuity. There is no power coming from the power cable to the switch. Looked behind the breaker box/converter, under the fridge and had a maze of wires but none that had a fuse except a 30 amp fuse labeled heater.

I'm seriously thinking of taking them off and putting scissor jacks in their place. 1 less electrical thing to worry about.

Anybody have any suggestions.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:16 PM   #2
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"From Lippert manual:
To manually operate the stabilizer jack, one of the
wire leads from the motor must be disconnected to prevent backloading the
motor and causing more damage.

Could I not just take the negative cable off the battery post?"

No.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:32 PM   #3
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Motor

Here is a pic of the motor. Do these 2 screws on the end hold the motor housing on. If I take this housing off, will I find the wires to the motor terminals? And then which wire? I took 1 screw out and realized it was longer than I thought it would be and put it back in before I screwed something else up.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:36 PM   #4
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I mounted quick release brackets for my scissor jacks about 4 inches away from the 'stabilizers' (caugh) and do not use the 'stabilizers'. When I am told that the 'stabilizers' look purty..... I say, ..... purty useless is what they are. Dead weight to carry around.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:47 PM   #5
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I have a different "read" of the manual.
IMO, you can remove all power from the camper and use the manual drive.

I believe the reason for the caution is the same one regarding the slides. If you put the crank on the stub and some helpful soul hits the switch while you are cranking you are gonna get a face full of crank.

The switches are notorious for getting corroded if water gets into the switch housing. Try switching in up and down to try and wear off any corrosion.

There is a resettable current limiter behind the switch (photo of mine). There is another 15 amp blow fuse in (or behind in a pigtail) the power center.
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:13 PM   #6
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Can't seem to post a pic of the current limiter behind the false wall. Something goofy is happening with my internet or the forum.

Didn't notice by looking at it but when looking at the pics, it seems to have some corrosion coming out of it like a flashlight battery does when it goes bad. Could this be a problem? And what could have caused it?
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timex View Post
Can't seem to post a pic of the current limiter behind the false wall. Something goofy is happening with my internet or the forum.

Didn't notice by looking at it but when looking at the pics, it seems to have some corrosion coming out of it like a flashlight battery does when it goes bad. Could this be a problem? And what could have caused it?
Yea, I am thinking you have a corroded terminal (and possibly a water leak).

Remove and replace the spade lugs after hitting them (individually!) with some steel wool or fine sand paper. If it fixes your problem, you might want to consider replacing all the terminals (AFTER you find the water intrusion point).
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:14 PM   #8
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Trying again.

This is for the rear stabs. Behind a false wall on the farthest curb side corner.
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Les View Post
I mounted quick release brackets for my scissor jacks about 4 inches away from the 'stabilizers' (caugh) and do not use the 'stabilizers'. When I am told that the 'stabilizers' look purty..... I say, ..... purty useless is what they are. Dead weight to carry around.
Give you $50 plus shipping for the whole mess.
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:59 PM   #10
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I'll GIVE you $50 to take the whole mess off and put scissor jacks on it!
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