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Old 01-17-2017, 07:29 PM   #1
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Flagstaff 27RLWS Entrance door shocks

We camped beside a dealer last summer. They had some 2017 Models the same as ours so we had to have a look. The one big difference is there are no shocks to push the door open. They just have the little plastic piece that mates with a plastic socket on the exterior wall. Since I do not like the shock absorber anyway has anyone thought of just taking it off. I assume the door will open all the way and sit against the exterior wall. I have already had to fix our shock mount to the sill as the wind caught it and gave it a jerk ripping the screws out. It now seems kind of silly to have this half open door anyway. On nice days when the air is not on it would be nice to just pin it open to have it out of the way and just use the screen.
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:36 PM   #2
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Could not stand ours. Grandkids had trouble closing the door, sitting outside the door in the open position got in the way of conversing with someone on the other side of the stairs, all around a general nuisance. Removed within 2 months of purchase and installed a regular door holder and bumper in black.

Doug
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Old 01-18-2017, 07:27 AM   #3
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We have the 2016 ROCKWOOD 2703WS which is the same model as yours and ours didn't have that shock. The door opens to a door stop on he outside and can be secured by a plastic latch. Seems to work just fine.

Marty
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:02 AM   #4
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Sure, I did and I'm not the first. Shocks were taken off last year. There is a short one and long one available on Amazon. Long one used on the rear door to acommodate the tilt out window. Short one on the front and you'll need a bumper. Look for threads on this subject. Search is your friend
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Old 01-18-2017, 02:35 PM   #5
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Add me to the number who have removed the door strut. I had to use a 3" bumper and long door holder to prevent the door from contacting the window when it is open. I didn't care for the way the door flapped in the wind with the strut. Now I need to find a solution for the awning bucking against its struts when the wind blows.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:53 PM   #6
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:41 PM   #7
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Yup....one of the first thing I did on my 27RLWS was to remove the door opener strut and install a black "T" entry door holder. (Killed me when I drilled my first pilot hole...you know, it's like the first scratch on you brand new car.)
I had to use the 3.5" holder because the door would hit the edge of the outside speaker by 1/4".
Don't figure, they couldn't mount that speaker just 1/4" more towards the front of the unit? And is that why they put a door opener strut in to begin with?
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Old 01-19-2017, 07:08 PM   #8
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Flagstaff 27RLWS Entrance door shocks

I finally gave up on our 2014 door stop, after changing it several times, when it lost its charge. I bought a stainless T that holds the door open, and then one has to release it to close. I have no problems with the wind catching the door. It only cost a few dollars, and I removed all the old door hardware. I can leave the screen closed for ventilation and not worry about the door.
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Old 01-21-2017, 02:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronzo101 View Post
Yup....one of the first thing I did on my 27RLWS was to remove the door opener strut and install a black "T" entry door holder. (Killed me when I drilled my first pilot hole...you know, it's like the first scratch on you brand new car.)
I had to use the 3.5" holder because the door would hit the edge of the outside speaker by 1/4".
Don't figure, they couldn't mount that speaker just 1/4" more towards the front of the unit? And is that why they put a door opener strut in to begin with?
Quick question, is it possible for you to send me pics and measurements (hole location) for your t-bracket install on your entry door? I too am sick of the dampening shock, but as you have stated, it's a bit unnerving to start drilling holes into the door and trailer body. I've already purchased a 6" t-bracket in stainless, do you think that's too long?
Let me know please!
Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:46 PM   #10
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27RLWS Door Stop

I will take a picture of my installation tomorrow, and also the measurements.
It has worked well. My T is only a couple of inches long.
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by beechjet16mf View Post
I will take a picture of my installation tomorrow, and also the measurements.
It has worked well. My T is only a couple of inches long.
That will be great. Thank you.
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Old 01-21-2017, 09:55 PM   #12
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Quick question, is it possible for you to send me pics and measurements (hole location) for your t-bracket install on your entry door? I too am sick of the dampening shock, but as you have stated, it's a bit unnerving to start drilling holes into the door and trailer body. I've already purchased a 6" t-bracket in stainless, do you think that's too long?
Let me know please!
Thanks.
To be honest with you I kind of "shot from the hip" as far as were to put it so here's the pics with the measurements I used.
Bottom line is on the door: 2"s from the outside trim, bottom and side.
Trailer wall: 3"s up from the trim on the skirt and 21 1/2 " from the door frame trim.
I used a 3 1/2" T-bracket, tight enough to the wall but far enough from the outside speaker.
Didn't hit anything "Scary" when drilling the pilot holes,
Ron
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronzo101 View Post
To be honest with you I kind of "shot from the hip" as far as were to put it so here's the pics with the measurements I used.
Bottom line is on the door: 2"s from the outside trim, bottom and side.
Trailer wall: 3"s up from the trim on the skirt and 21 1/2 " from the door frame trim.
I used a 3 1/2" T-bracket, tight enough to the wall but far enough from the outside speaker.
Didn't hit anything "Scary" when drilling the pilot holes,
Ron
I really appreciate the info and especially the pics with visual measurements. Your install (mod) looks perfect.
Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:15 AM   #14
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27RLWS Door Stop

Here are pictures of my installation. I mounted the catch on the door first, up against the black trim of the door, and then matched the "T" to the door on the side of the trailer, and made sure that the lower screws went into the side of the flooring. I installed the rubber bumper so that there is a slight amount of tension on the latch when it is hooked to keep it from rattling.

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I hope this helps, and I will be happy to answer any questions.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:21 AM   #15
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27RLWS Door Stop

My speaker is mounted farther forward, so the door doesn't hit it. Sorry for the dirty trailer, but, we have run through a lot of rain the last few days, and
are enjoying California ending their drought, with lots of moisture.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:36 AM   #16
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My speaker is mounted farther forward, so the door doesn't hit it. Sorry for the dirty trailer, but, we have run through a lot of rain the last few days, and
are enjoying California ending their drought, with lots of moisture.
That looks great. I do have a couple of questions.
•Did you use the stainless T-latch instead of the plastic?
•What length of bumper did you install!

Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:19 AM   #17
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Yes, I bought a Stainless kit from Amazon. The "T" is 3 3/4" long and the bumper, which came in the kit, is 2 1/4" long, and has a screw in the center. It has been on the trailer for a year now, and we haven't had any problem. The only thing I did was add a drop of clear RTV under the "T", so it didn't rub on the trailer.
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:44 AM   #18
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That looks great. I do have a couple of questions.
•Did you use the stainless T-latch instead of the plastic?
•What length of bumper did you install!

Thanks!
I really appreciate your responses and "all" of the detailed info that you've sent me.
Thank you very much.
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