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Old 10-28-2017, 08:04 AM   #1
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Floor Issues

I have a 2015 Flagstaff Super V. I bought it at a dealer early in the spring. The first time we camped in it, noticed a little water dripping underneath. The drip was under the v-nose area which is where the bathroom is located. Upon further investigation I found trapped water ,the previous owner must have had a leak. To make a long story short, I contacted the dealer and they said they could fix the floor where their was a leak and split the cost with me. I decided to wait til now to get it fixed so I could use it during the camping season. I called the manufacturer a couple of days ago and they told me that just an area could not be fixed. They said because it has a vacuum laminated floor, the whole floor would need replaced at a cost of approximately $4500.00. My question is..has anyone had any luck with just fixing an area in a vacuum laminated floor?
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Old 10-28-2017, 08:10 AM   #2
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Several folks have done it. Try doing a search in the search field at the top of the page.
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Old 10-29-2017, 11:33 AM   #3
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I'd love to find these topics myself but searching for me turns up nothing of much help.
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Old 10-29-2017, 12:59 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by GearHd6 View Post
I'd love to find these topics myself but searching for me turns up nothing of much help.
Search for "soft floors."
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1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:24 PM   #5
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My fix.

We have a Rockwood 5th wheel, 2010 8288SS. Floor flexing issues after 5 yrs. My 1st fix was removing the 3/16” sub-flooring and adding support brackets to the metal floor joists/stringers. I removed enough foam to add a 3/4” plywood below the sub-flooring and replaced the sub-flooring. I had cut the vinyl flooring on 3 sides and folded it back off the repair area. I used contact cement to the vinyl seams for replacement.
My 2nd and latest repair spot (both in kitchen area) I plan to use “Foam It” to inject below the sub-flooring. I plan to fold back the vinyl and drill 3/8-1/2” holes into the foam using multiple angles from each hole in order to inject enough foam for sufficient volume so the foam will penetrate the drilled holes and expand upward and out of the holes. The foam is also an excellent adhesive.
I will post the outcome when complete (due to family illness, it may be awhile).
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:24 PM   #6
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Abatron Liquid Wood will stiffen and restore water damaged soft wood.

https://youtu.be/kRejFGaMiKg
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Old 07-31-2019, 10:00 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by gwendick View Post
We have a Rockwood 5th wheel, 2010 8288SS. Floor flexing issues after 5 yrs. My 1st fix was removing the 3/16” sub-flooring and adding support brackets to the metal floor joists/stringers. I removed enough foam to add a 3/4” plywood below the sub-flooring and replaced the sub-flooring. I had cut the vinyl flooring on 3 sides and folded it back off the repair area. I used contact cement to the vinyl seams for replacement.
My 2nd and latest repair spot (both in kitchen area) I plan to use “Foam It” to inject below the sub-flooring. I plan to fold back the vinyl and drill 3/8-1/2” holes into the foam using multiple angles from each hole in order to inject enough foam for sufficient volume so the foam will penetrate the drilled holes and expand upward and out of the holes. The foam is also an excellent adhesive.
I will post the outcome when complete (due to family illness, it may be awhile).
A follow-up on my attempt to repair spongy/soft floors in my 2010 Rockwood 8088SS fifth wheel ultralight. Read my previous entry to get started. I followed thru on using water proof “Foam-It” to fill the voids I had drilled in the flooring foam (looked like styrofoam). I used 1/2” drill bit to drill out the foam at 8 different angles around the circumference of the hole at about a 45 degree angle going down. I went as deep as 2 1/2”-3” being careful not to damage the floor ducts in the area. I vacuumed out as much of the loose styrofoam as possible. Next I placed a thin bead of hot glue around the opening and layed on a small sheet of 6 mil plastic to contain the the escaping Foam-It. I cut out the plastic to expose the holes. Next I injected the Foam-It aiming into each angled hole around the circumference. Next I wiped off the escaping foam and placed a piece of 3/8” thick upholstery foam over the holes to seal it. The residual Foam-It makes an excellent adhesive for the foam. Next I put weights on top of the foam in order to direct the expanding foam into the voids. To cover the holes I will use a piece of aluminum house siding secured with contact cement. I was concerned about the foam forcing the floor to heave up but it never happened. The result was a very firm floor in the area I injected. The affected area appears to be 6”-7” around the hole. This may not be a permanent fix but hopefully will be less costly in the short term. As other soft spots avail themselves I will only open the floor tile at each location I intend to drill. I will slice 1 1/2” section of tile leaving the section attached so it can be properly aligned and replaced. Before replacing the tile I will seal the hole using a piece of thin aluminum house siding and contact cement for both the siding and the tile. I will attempt to attach some photos in the next few days.
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