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Old 09-18-2017, 09:53 AM   #1
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Gallons of antifreeze needed for a MicroLite 21DS?

This will be our first winter with our MicroLite 21DS. For those of you that own one, how many gallons of RV antifreeze will I need in order to run it through the entire system (minus the hot water tank, of course)?
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:15 AM   #2
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Two should be more than enough for most RVs your size.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:22 AM   #3
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I agree, probably two.

With that said, I always advise 1st timers to buy a gallon more than what you think you need doing it the first time. Just in case you pull a boo-boo and forget to close something and dump some on the ground or something else silly.

You don't want to be running to the store to get another gallon in the middle of the winterizing process. For the inexpensive amount, another gallon won't break the bank. If you don't use it, it will keep perfectly fine till next year.

Oh... and don't put antifreeze in the fresh tank. Hopefully you have a winterization port to ingest antifreeze directly into the pump.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:06 PM   #4
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Thanks for the advice, guys!
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:01 PM   #5
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Blow it out with air, then 2 gallons at most.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:28 PM   #6
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I don't know about your MicroLite, but with my Rockwood Signature Ultralite, 8315BSS, I blow the line out with air, then I use 2 gallons to winterize, plus I add 1 gallon to each gray and black tank, so I use 5 gallons. Adding the antifreeze to the holding takes maybe over kill, but it's cheap insurance, plus it keeps the seals wet.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:34 PM   #7
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Blow it out with air, then 2 gallons at most.
I have a question about that. Do you simply use something like a shop vac to blow (or suck) the water out, or is there a fitting you can buy for a compressor to blow the air out? Also, doing the latter, is there any danger of putting too much pressure on the plastic fittings?
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:39 PM   #8
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I have a question about that. Do you simply use something like a shop vac to blow (or suck) the water out, or is there a fitting you can buy for a compressor to blow the air out? Also, doing the latter, is there any danger of putting too much pressure on the plastic fittings?
Put a pressure regulator on your compressor and set it for 30PSI.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:42 PM   #9
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I just blow my lines out with air and only add anti-freeze down the sink drains.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:48 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by JayArras View Post
I have a question about that. Do you simply use something like a shop vac to blow (or suck) the water out, or is there a fitting you can buy for a compressor to blow the air out? Also, doing the latter, is there any danger of putting too much pressure on the plastic fittings?
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Put a pressure regulator on your compressor and set it for 30PSI.
Yes, there is a fitting that attaches to an air compressor.
You'll want to use a regulator to keep the pressure similar to water pressure, 30-50 PSI.

The reason for blowing out the lines first with compressed air is so that when you then ingest the antifreeze, it doesn't mix with the water in the lines diluting it. By blowing out first, when the pink comes, it's pretty much pure antifreeze, saving having to pump extra through to clear the diluted stuff.



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Old 09-19-2017, 12:53 PM   #11
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I just blow my lines out with air and only add anti-freeze down the sink drains.
Some people do and the geographical area you live in has a lot to do with that.

If you live in an area where you only get a few below freezing nights, then blowing out 'might' be ok.

In areas where it gets below freezing for months, I always advise to blow out then ingest antifreeze. No one has ever been able to prove to me that blowing out only, removes every drop of water. It only takes one small drop of water left behind in a faucet cartridge or toilet valve to create havoc come spring. Adding antifreeze removes the possibility of a drop of water causing damage.
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Old 09-19-2017, 01:38 PM   #12
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Yes, there is a fitting that attaches to an air compressor. You'll want to use a regulator to keep the pressure similar to water pressure, 30-50 PSI.

Oh darn! Another tool that I'm going to have to buy!
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Old 09-19-2017, 02:04 PM   #13
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Some people do and the geographical area you live in has a lot to do with that.

If you live in an area where you only get a few below freezing nights, then blowing out 'might' be ok.

In areas where it gets below freezing for months, I always advise to blow out then ingest antifreeze. No one has ever been able to prove to me that blowing out only, removes every drop of water. It only takes one small drop of water left behind in a faucet cartridge or toilet valve to create havoc come spring. Adding antifreeze removes the possibility of a drop of water causing damage.


I second that!
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Old 09-19-2017, 02:41 PM   #14
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Onto what do you attach your air compressor value to begin blowing out the lines? The city water fitting on the outside of the trailer? Does the pump stay off?

Thanks a lot.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:18 PM   #15
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Onto what do you attach your air compressor value to begin blowing out the lines? The city water fitting on the outside of the trailer? Does the pump stay off?

Thanks a lot.
Yes, the city water connection. No pump.

There will still be water left inside the pump which can only be protected with antifreeze which is why it's the preferred winterization method in colder climates.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:33 PM   #16
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Yes, the city water connection. No pump.

There will still be water left inside the pump which can only be protected with antifreeze which is why it's the preferred winterization method in colder climates.
Correct.

The pump will retain a bit of water after the blow out method because it is behind the check valve that is built into the pump. The check valve is necessary to keep city water from filling the fresh tank but by design, it doesn't allow the blow out method to evacuate any water either.

The only way to evacuate that water and protect the pump (short of unhooking the pump and taking it inside your house) is by ingesting antifreeze through the winterization port or one you've added to the pump's inlet.

You'll also want to do another little trick when the pump is on and ingesting antifreeze... and that is to depress the check valve at the city water connection and let a little pink out there as well. Stand off to the side so you don't wear it.

I suggest first timers do a search. There are lots and lots of good threads about how to winterize properly.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:44 PM   #17
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Correct.

You'll also want to do another little trick when the pump is on and ingesting antifreeze... and that is to depress the check valve at the city water connection and let a little pink out there as well. Stand off to the side so you don't wear it.
I would caution anyone doing this to the city water inlet. I have ruined 2 inlet valves doing this. For some reason that little ball inside the valve doesn't like to be messed with. Anyway I just blow mine out really well, then add the antifreeze at the pump and call it good. Works for me.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:46 PM   #18
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I suggest first timers do a search. There are lots and lots of good threads about how to winterize properly.
I think that this has been one of them! Thanks to all for the advice!
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:52 PM   #19
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I would caution anyone doing this to the city water inlet. I have ruined 2 inlet valves doing this. For some reason that little ball inside the valve doesn't like to be messed with. Anyway I just blow mine out really well, then add the antifreeze at the pump and call it good. Works for me.
It's always good to know about problems associated with different methods and I'm sorry you've had some problems. Thanks for making me aware of it.

Having done this on many different trailers over the years (not only my own but others whom I've helped) I've never damaged an inlet check valve. I'll need to be aware the possibility exists.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:52 PM   #20
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I always have 2 on-hand and 1 on standby...just in case of mishap...forget a valve or something. The unused goes back in garage for next fall.
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