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Old 05-09-2014, 07:50 PM   #11
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yeah, i read thru them too fast and missed that. sorry.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:27 PM   #12
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Sounds like a power surge that just happened to take out a GFI at the same time. Yes it could have been worse.

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Got one to prevent that from happening.
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:05 PM   #13
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Wife just said she very quickly ran out of hot water. Water Heater is on elect.
Could it have been partially fried?
Also now wondering about the fridge. It's set to automatic. If the element is fried and not working, would it switch to propane?
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:47 PM   #14
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GFCI outlet

Any possibility 220VAC was connected in error? Reefer heater and water heater elements are calrod or similar heavy duty stuff can withstand surge levels approaching lightning strike. Reefer may have been damaged in 12V controls? Yes gas should start on auto
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:39 PM   #15
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make sure the breaker is not tripped. try shutting the water heater off then turning it back on (at the breaker in ur breaker box). there should be a reset that can be pushed on the water heater. usually covered with rubber. should be marked.
the fridge I would do the same. it should have automatically switched to propane.
ur control boards should have survived sense they run off the battery. would take quiet a surge to make it thru the converter and not be absorbed by the battery.
the water heater would not automatically switch over but u should have a switch inside somewhere that u can turn the gas on.
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:59 PM   #16
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garycarson. on the hw heater... has it worked properly sense it was dewinterized? a bypass left open can do that.
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:02 AM   #17
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GFCI outlets will save your life! They are made to kick off at the slightest power going to ground or the neutral. By electrical code they must be used near water; sinks, pools, pumps...rule of thumb is if you can touch a water outlet and a electrical outlet it must be a GFCI. When you buy one...read the enclosed instructions as its very important to connect it properly.
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:48 AM   #18
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Since you said: "Fried the coffee pot, fan, blender. TV was smoking but seems to work," this smells suspiciously like a neutral problem. If your RV or the place you are getting power from has a bad connection in the neutral circuit, the voltage can jump from 120 to 240 and will fry any 120 volt items that are on the line. That's why you want one of these: EMS-HW50C

If you are still plugged into the same location, I would do some serious investigation before anything else is fried. If at an RV campground, ask maintenance to check the receptacle and connections. You should also disconnect from the power source and check all of your connections. These RVs experience a lot of vibration as they travel down the road and connections can and will loosen over time.
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Old 05-18-2014, 08:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_GA View Post
These RVs experience a lot of vibration as they travel down the road and connections can and will loosen over time.
This is a great point. Normally, these issues are seen at campground's 50 amp service pedestal where the white neutral wire loses continuity, but it can just as easily be caused by the same issues at the incoming neutral's connection on your 50 amp converter's neutral buss bar.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:27 PM   #20
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A GFCI will save your life. Most of the time the "primary" GFCI will be in the bath room. If you push the test button other receptacles down the line will also go off....they should. One GFCI receptacle will support 3-4 others. NOTICE do not use other GFCI receptacles after the primary receptacle, if you do they will not function properly. READ the instructions that come with the GFCI or look on Youtube.
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