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Old 06-25-2018, 11:00 PM   #1
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Heater runs longer than needed

Hey everybody, I have a 21ds and when I run the furnace, it heats up good, but it heats up and stays heating up until it's too hot and then it turns off and then stays off until it's pretty chilly before it comes back on. Is this a deadband setting that can be changed? I turned the furnace on the other day for a bit and decided I wanted it off, so I switched the thermostat down all the way and put the switch in the off position, but the furnace ran for about 2 or 3 minutes longer blowing out heat before it finally shut down. Can I change this? Thanks! I searched the forum and couldn't find anything.
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Old 06-26-2018, 12:06 AM   #2
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Hey everybody, I have a 21ds and when I run the furnace, it heats up good, but it heats up and stays heating up until it's too hot and then it turns off and then stays off until it's pretty chilly before it comes back on. Is this a deadband setting that can be changed? I turned the furnace on the other day for a bit and decided I wanted it off, so I switched the thermostat down all the way and put the switch in the off position, but the furnace ran for about 2 or 3 minutes longer blowing out heat before it finally shut down. Can I change this? Thanks! I searched the forum and couldn't find anything.
Go to Home Depot and buy a Honeywell battery operated non-programable t-stat. About $24.00. It will keep the temp within 1 degree one way or the other of the set point. Takes about 15 min to install. Directions are very easy to read I did mine yesterday.

When I turn mine off it will run for maybe 30 seconds.
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Old 06-26-2018, 08:32 PM   #3
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The furnace will continue to run after reaching temp to cool down. It is perfectly normal. Changing out the Tstat should take care of the other issue.

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Old 06-26-2018, 08:54 PM   #4
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propane shuts off. Fan is programmed to run a few extra minutes to get all the bought air out of the ducts etc while still hot. should not heat the camper up that much more.
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Old 06-26-2018, 08:59 PM   #5
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Here ya go. Mod #100: Honeywell, Dometic and Suburban Digitial Thermostat Install | ModMyRV
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Old 06-27-2018, 01:35 PM   #6
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Besides a possible thermostat replacement,... if it gets hot enough to force a shutdown from excessive heat then you need to look at the upper limit switch. That could pose a dangerous situation.
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Old 06-27-2018, 01:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangrega33 View Post
Hey everybody, I have a 21ds and when I run the furnace, it heats up good, but it heats up and stays heating up until it's too hot and then it turns off and then stays off until it's pretty chilly before it comes back on. Is this a deadband setting that can be changed? I turned the furnace on the other day for a bit and decided I wanted it off, so I switched the thermostat down all the way and put the switch in the off position, but the furnace ran for about 2 or 3 minutes longer blowing out heat before it finally shut down. Can I change this? Thanks! I searched the forum and couldn't find anything.
The reason is, many times the thermostats have a 4 degree swing. They stay on 2 degrees past the temperature you want and don't come on again, until it is 2 degrees below the set temperature. I guess they do that to keep it from turning on and off so often. That is why many people are suggesting you replace the thermostat.

Some thermostats let you adjust this, but you'll need to find detailed information about the particular thermostat, before you start screwing with it.

Analog thermostats usually have the widest swing (off and on) range as a standard. Moving to a digital thermostat often gives a much tighter swing.
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Old 06-27-2018, 01:47 PM   #8
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Read the other thread that was posted before you make your mind up on a new t-stat. There are some issues with switching to a residential t-stat. I had the same issue with both heat and cool. My rig had an analog Coleman-Mach t-stat. I order a digital Coleman-Mach. It was a wire for wire replacement and now keeps the temp swings much tighter. Very happy with the modification.
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Old 06-27-2018, 01:59 PM   #9
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I know that most residential T-Stats have an "anticipator" setting that turns the burner off as the room reaches the set temperature. I don't know if the RV T-Stats have an adjustable setting for this or it's just a one size fits all feature incorporated in the circuitry.

Check the manual to see if there is an adjustment for temperature differential (Temp on/Temp off difference).

For myself, when it's "furnace weather" I just set the T-Stat so it shuts off the furnace when it's just right and then wear a nice flannel shirt so a slight chill doesn't bother me.

Trying to maintain a 1-2 degree temp range on an RV, which has all kinds of "heat leaks" can end up just using more propane. A nice "Woolrich" shirt is far less over time.
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Old 06-27-2018, 02:10 PM   #10
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9 posts and no-one has asked which thermostat you have.

We REALLY need to know that in order to give you any helpful advice. You could have an old style bimetal furnace only thermostat, or you could have a Coleman analog thermostat, or a Dometic combination analog thermostat, or you could have a Dometic LCD digital thermostat.

Without knowing which, we really don't know if you can, or how to tell you to adjust the deadband.

Post back the thermostat you have and we'll be able to give you some good advice.
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Old 06-27-2018, 03:33 PM   #11
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The problem I had was the bedroom would heat up to scorching hot when I used the propane furnace but then it got cold. I quit using the furnace and use a small electric heater that works great. I also shut off my vent beside our bed. I closed it off completely because we like a cool bedroom. So if it gets real cold we will use the propane furnace and set it low. Still using original thermostat with no problems after my adjustments. And you are already paying for the electricity when camped at full hook up facility so why use your propane??
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Old 06-28-2018, 07:42 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie View Post
When I turn mine off it will run for maybe 30 seconds.
and that 30 seconds is normal. It is a "cool down" period for the heater to blow air over the furnace to cool it off prior to shutting off the blower motor.

Your house furnace does the same thing for the same reason.
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:57 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Ham Camper View Post
The problem I had was the bedroom would heat up to scorching hot when I used the propane furnace but then it got cold. I quit using the furnace and use a small electric heater that works great. I also shut off my vent beside our bed. I closed it off completely because we like a cool bedroom. So if it gets real cold we will use the propane furnace and set it low. Still using original thermostat with no problems after my adjustments. And you are already paying for the electricity when camped at full hook up facility so why use your propane??
One thing we found to improve that situation is magnetic vent covers. We placed them to cover half of the vent in the two very hot rooms (the two closest to the furnace). It now more evenly distributes the heat throughout the camper.

Like you, we normally use our fireplace for heat (electric heater). However, I run the furnace when it is close to freezing, I want to make sure the basement and tanks stay warm. At that point, the fireplace doesn't do a good job of keeping up anyway.
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Old 06-28-2018, 11:33 AM   #14
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Read the other thread that was posted before you make your mind up on a new t-stat. There are some issues with switching to a residential t-stat. I had the same issue with both heat and cool. My rig had an analog Coleman-Mach t-stat. I order a digital Coleman-Mach. It was a wire for wire replacement and now keeps the temp swings much tighter. Very happy with the modification.
I replaced my Coleman Mach with a Honeywell RH111B. The only issue is that is only supports 1 fan speed, so you need to either add a SPDT switch to chose your fan speed, OR pick a fan speed and live with it.

But the digital Coleman Mach is plug and play.

Here's a wiring diagram if you have a Coleman Mach and want to go for it. Note that since the Honeywell is battery powered, you don't need the ground wire anymore.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Thermostsat wiring with internal switches.pdf (194.6 KB, 9 views)
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