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Old 11-22-2012, 09:09 AM   #1
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Hot Water bypass. (SOLVED)

I am not sure if I am missing something but I don't think I am able to bypass my water heater with my setup. This leads me to believe the only effective way to winterize will be to fill the entire system with antifreeze and pump it through. I think I will just add another shutoff valve to the hot line as well.

So looking at the attached photo I am not really sure how the bottom valve works but I am thinking one of two ways. 1. It could close both lines completely then I get no antifreeze in any of the hot lines or 2. it only closes the path to the cold and the antifreeze can get though the hot lines but in this scenario it will also fill my water heater. In the photo attached if I switch the valve the water can still back feed trough the hot line.. Unless my water heater has an anti flowback valve on the hot line?
any thoughts?

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Old 11-22-2012, 09:28 AM   #2
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Unless there is some sort of check valve in that tee which I have never seen. You will need to put another valve there. That seems like the easiest fix.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:06 AM   #3
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agreed.. its strange I just bought this trailer used its a 2002. I would think that over the years someone may have fixed this... or perhaps the last guy who owned it hacked it up an caused this...lol
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:22 AM   #4
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That is a 1 valve system. Turn the valve that you have labeled "shut-off/by-pass??" in line with the vertical line....that is the bypass line. That shuts water off going into the water heater, and directs the water flow to the bypass line. There should be check valve in the top line at the water heater so that water cannot flow back into the water heater.....it can only come out of that line.

I had a 1 valve system with the check valve installed in my Trailmanor, and it worked well. 1 valve to set up instead of 3.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deplacent
I am not sure if I am missing something but I don't think I am able to bypass my water heater with my setup. This leads me to believe the only effective way to winterize will be to fill the entire system with antifreeze and pump it through. I think I will just add another shutoff valve to the hot line as well.

So looking at the attached photo I am not really sure how the bottom valve works but I am thinking one of two ways. 1. It could close both lines completely then I get no antifreeze in any of the hot lines or 2. it only closes the path to the cold and the antifreeze can get though the hot lines but in this scenario it will also fill my water heater. In the photo attached if I switch the valve the water can still back feed trough the hot line.. Unless my water heater has an anti flowback valve on the hot line?
any thoughts?
You only need one valve to the cold in that setup.
Winterize away!


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Old 11-22-2012, 12:53 PM   #6
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Shutoff

I have a shut off on the cold water into the water heater and a shut off on the hot water coming out of the water heater.....which are open for normal hot water operation.....there is a by pass hose with a valve that is shut for normal hot water operation.....I guess to by pass the hot water heater on my setup you close the cold water inlet valve to hot water heater and open the by pass hose valve and close the hot water outlet valve from the hot water heater....I guess if I want to flush hot water heater just close the hot water outlet valve after you bleed off the pressure then you can drain and refill as needed to flush the tank out during cleaning.....with cold water.....guess three valves are better than two......I also have a hot and cold water drain tubes at a low point.....but the filter bowl and water pump a below those lines.....go figure that one...
Better blow out with air until they are empty.....doesn t look to me like they will drain out from gravity or syphon......but I do notice sometimes my water filter bowl is only about a 1/3 full of water.....with no city water hooked up.....so pump may take some out of that bowl.....I imagine that no two systems are alike......so we just have to figure out how to get it out of there....or better yet just go to Florida...when it is cold.. good luck
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:09 PM   #7
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I have a 2006 Flagstaff TT, same setup. The check valve is on the hot water out right at the tank. Your bypass is what you labeled, as others have said. I had to think about it too.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:59 PM   #8
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Thanks for the feedback guys, I assumed there should be a check valve in the tank but I tried bypassing it and the antifreeze still came out of the tank. (already had the anode rod pulled) I think my problem may be a faulty check valve. O ring likely popped off I will check tonight and post my findings.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
That is a 1 valve system. Turn the valve that you have labeled "shut-off/by-pass??" in line with the vertical line....that is the bypass line. That shuts water off going into the water heater, and directs the water flow to the bypass line. There should be check valve in the top line at the water heater so that water cannot flow back into the water heater.....it can only come out of that line.

I had a 1 valve system with the check valve installed in my Trailmanor, and it worked well. 1 valve to set up instead of 3.
X2. The check valve is also referred to as a backflow preventer.
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:57 PM   #10
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What David-o said. We also have a 2012 it is under the tv behind the door on the right. Just need a screw driver to get to it.
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:51 AM   #11
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So it turns out the o-ring was off the check valve. I popped it back in place and everything works as it should. Trailer is now fully winterized and under its cover. Now I just have to wait for the spring...lol Thanks for all the responses!
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