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Old 12-12-2007, 04:44 PM   #1
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How much anti-freeze

How much antifreeze does it take to winterize your RV? I have a 2008 Flagstaff 831BHSS and the dealer told me 2 gallons. I probably wasted a little, but it took 5 1/2 gallons to get the pink stuff flowing at all outlets. Almost forgot the outside shower. Also forgot to remove the filter so that is another $33 (dealer price). Can these filters be purchased anywhere other than the dealer?

Thanks for your response.
Mickey
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Old 12-12-2007, 05:01 PM   #2
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I used 2 gallons to do our georgetown and I wasted some along the way. Did you use the hot water heater by-pass? The water heater would really take a lot of antifreeze.
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Old 12-12-2007, 05:30 PM   #3
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Yes, the hot water heater has bypass valves. Thought at first I goofed, but took out the plug and it was empty. I was just surprized that it took so much after the dealer said 2 gallons. Got curious about others.
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:21 PM   #4
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Winterized my TT Sunday evening.
Took less than 2 gallons.

A replacement water filter can be purchased at almost any location that sells hardware. I've seen them at Wal-Mart, Lowe's and Home Depot. I bought my last filter at Do-It Best Hardware.

Forest River calls for a (0.5) Micron replacement filter, rated at 2.5 gpm. (One Micron = one-millionth of a meter)

Being we don't use our on-board water, or city connection for drinking(bath & toilet only), I bought a 20 Micron replacement cartridge with a rating of 12 gpm.

Click HERE also to order on-line.
PlumbingSupply.com, Part # W20CLA.
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:21 PM   #5
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we get the water filters at hone depot abut 3 bux
its a standard filter element i beleieve the ones we buy are made by whirlpool


as for antifreeze, 3-5 gallons is about right, if you bypassed the water heater. and filled the traps with the stuff
plus som ein the toilet and the tanks
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:44 PM   #6
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I did my shamrock 21ss last season..took 2 gallons. but also took over two hours and a lot of asperin. i installed the bypass valve backwards and couldnt figure out why it wouldnt work! haha oops!!
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:50 PM   #7
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Forgot about the tanks! What do you recommend--1/2 gallon per tank--more,Less?
What about some in the tank dump drains? It usually don't get all that cold here in southwest Arkansas, but we do have several days below freezing, like 22-25 and even some times a day or two in the teens. I don't want to be embarrassed come spring when I want to go camping, that is RVing. Got to learn all this lingo.
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:56 PM   #8
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Thanks for the filter info guys. We new guys have to ask a lot of questions. I'll check out the different places and see what I come up with. The 3 bux sounds more like my price. I don't mind paying a fair price, but I don't like getting ripped off either.
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:25 PM   #9
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you just need enough in the tanks to rest against the drain valve and displace any water, just in case
your walter filter reminds me of the RV toilet paper BS
you gitta use rv toilet paper only


YEAH right
any good brand thats septic safe is OK
and if yoour wondering
take a piece of tissue put it in a glass bottle (mason) and a little water and shake, if it comes apart it ok
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Old 12-12-2007, 09:50 PM   #10
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I have never used any antifreeze for winterization. Being that I am a plumber, I cut a T in line under the kitchen sink with a connection for an air hose. I also have installed ball valves at both drain points of the RV. I hook the hose up to it, turn my air compressor down to 50-60psi (max recommended rv pressure), and go around and open up all the taps one by one hot and cold and all valves and i'm done. You then leave all faucets open for expansion in case there is a tiny bit of water anywhere. I then dump -35C windshield washer fluid in the traps (1/2 as cheap as rv antifreeze) and giddy-up. Dis-connect my pump and put it inside with my battery. 10 min Max. I would not recommend doing this for everyone. I have done this in three rv's and have never fixed a burst line, then again even if one burst for me it would not be a big deal. Sucks to think that here I winterized almost three months ago....................uuugg.
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Old 12-12-2007, 10:27 PM   #11
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Whooooo-ah!
Bringing the pump inside is prolly the kicker.

Say Mr. Plumber....
How does a person pump antifreeze into a residential style toilet with no onboard water pump? (park trailer)

I used a manual pump from the outside city water connection to get antifreeze into the system. For the toilet, I sponged all the water from the toilet tank, and bowl. I dumped a little pink stuff in both, but failed to see how to actually 'flush' the stuff from the tank to the rim and down the bowl...like you would an RV style toilet. Have any idea if this is even necessary, or is there no water up to the rim to worry about?
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Old 12-12-2007, 10:45 PM   #12
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Whooooo-ah!
Bringing the pump inside is prolly the kicker.

Say Mr. Plumber....
How does a person pump antifreeze into a residential style toilet with no onboard water pump? (park trailer)

I used a manual pump from the outside city water connection to get antifreeze into the system. For the toilet, I sponged all the water from the toilet tank, and bowl. I dumped a little pink stuff in both, but failed to see how to actually 'flush' the stuff from the tank to the rim and down the bowl...like you would an RV style toilet. Have any idea if this is even necessary, or is there no water up to the rim to worry about?
At my parents cabin that's what we do, sponge all the water out and dump antifreeze in the tank and the bowl. A good thing to do also is prop the float in the tank up so the line remains open. Therefore if any low spots have water or no antifreeze the line can freeze and expand without breaking. There is no water anywhere in between the tank and the bowl.
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Old 12-12-2007, 11:21 PM   #13
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Thanks. Good to know. I wasn't sure when I winterized if I'd done it right. I have never had this type of system in an RV before.
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Old 12-13-2007, 06:30 PM   #14
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I use air as well instead of antifreeze, I know that RV antifreeze is suppose the be safe but, I don't like the idea of a pink chemical in my water lines. I was reading another thread about a member who had spilled the pink stuff on there grass and another member replied, in a matter of words, said it well kill the grass turn it brown!
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:09 PM   #15
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Prolly was me. Heck, I think I posted pix of it.
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:35 PM   #16
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To Milzat:
Thanks for the info on the filter cartridges. Please do not take offense with the following. I do not doubt your expertise, I am just trying to understand what I need and why.
Where did you get the info on the filter cartridge? All I could find in my manual was the replacement cart. number and the manufacturer--The Water Pur Company and phone #. I plan to call them for tech info. I stopped at a Lowe's and looked at some different ones, but forgot to take my old filter with me, so could not determine the correct size. The ones I looked at didn't have much info but I did like the price. Their was one pack of 2 carts for I think $6.50. I did notice some "whole house" filters that were a little higher priced--some about $10 and others up to $29. I'll get the lowdown from Water Pur in a day or two and see if I can get info from Lowe's also.
A friend told me that the camper filters are more costly because they have to filter out bacteria that grows in your fresh water tank. That is what he thougt he remembered from a few years ago when he owned an AirStream. He said to not depend on what he remembers.
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Old 12-18-2007, 05:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
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To Milzat:
Thanks for the info on the filter cartridges. Please do not take offense with the following. I do not doubt your expertise, I am just trying to understand what I need and why.
Where did you get the info on the filter cartridge?

Mickey,
I'm no expert, I just surf alot.
The Forest River water filtration information can be found HERE .

As I said before, I have no need for an expencive filter cartridge as we carry bottled water with us for drinking and cooking.
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Forest River calls for a (0.5) Micron replacement filter, rated at 2.5 gpm. (One Micron = one-millionth of a meter)

Being we don't use our on-board water, or city connection for drinking(bath & toilet only), I bought a 20 Micron replacement cartridge with a rating of 12 gpm.

Click HERE also to order on-line.
PlumbingSupply.com, Part # W20CLA.
Quote:
Originally Posted by milzat View Post
The Forest River water filtration information can be found HERE .

As I said before, I have no need for an expencive filter cartridge as we carry bottled water with us for drinking and cooking.
Forest River recommends a .5 micron filter? Holy cow! I’m with you Milzat, get something larger or you won’t have any water pressure. I use a 10 micron carbon filter when I use one (most of the times I don’t, I’ll set up a Brita filter on the counter top for drinking water). At .5 you are almost getting into RO filtration. I buy all my water filters from http://www.airwaterice.com/ I have one of their ED RO units in the house http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1...is_System.html and run it to my fridge as well ( I love the crystal clear ice cubes ). Their replacement pre-filters before the RO membrane are all standard size which you can get anywhere(9 7/8" x 2 1/2").

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey View Post
A friend told me that the camper filters are more costly because they have to filter out bacteria that grows in your fresh water tank. That is what he thougt he remembered from a few years ago when he owned an AirStream. He said to not depend on what he remembers.
Unless you plan on an RO system you will not be filtering out all the bacteria from your water. If your filter is the kind that fits in one of those spin off canisters the filter sizes are 9 7/8" x 2 1/2". This is the industry standard size. My FIL’s Rockwood has this size filter canister. I would recommend a 10 – 20 micron carbon filter. This would provide a chlorine free and decent tasting water and give pretty decent flow. .5 micron is nuts in my opinion as the one and only filter. As far as bacteria in your fresh tank…………. Your fresh tank should be cleaned and sanitized every season and kept fresh with either a bit of regular bleach or other fresh water treatments and there are a lot of options out there.

Now if you do want super filtered water there are portable/counter top RO systems that you can install in your RV. But RO systems need water pressure to operate efficiently.
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Old 12-18-2007, 04:37 PM   #19
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Thanks guys for your advice. I talked with The Water Pur Company this morning and got more info than I could comprehend. I like the points that you make. I wasn't even thinking about what I need, only replacing what I screwed up. I can see where you are coming from. It didn't dawn on me that we use bottled water for drinking and also fill jugs with tap water and freeze them for use in the ice chest and freezer. When the jugs melt down, we use them for drinking.
If I go to a larger(?) filter will that increase my water pressure in the shower when using the pump? Boy there sure is a lot to learn about RVing. I guess I did too much camping in a tent.
Thanks again guys for your help.
Mickey
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:09 AM   #20
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If I go to a larger(?) filter will that increase my water pressure in the shower when using the pump?
A larger micron rating such as a 10 - 20 will give you increased pressure over the .5 micron that came with the trailer. A 10 micron carbon filter is a good all around size. Small enough to filter out most particulate, the carbon will make your water taste better, and you will have decent water pressure. The 20 micron filter would be considered a sediment filter as it has no carbon in it.
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