Jack Antenna Light

[Timex]

After turning off AC power I still have lights, slides, etc just the batt power shows low. The batt is not charging.

Let me add this caveat, a couple weeks ago I got a new battery and the posts were opposite from the previous battery. And yes I hooked it up backwards and blew a 15 amp fuse. Replaced the fuse and all works fine except the battery is not charging.

I'm not adept with a meter, so tell me where to put the leads so I call tell you fellas what I got?

[Timex]

Checked all the fuses in the breaker box for continuity and all were good. All the breakers were on. Followed the positive battery cable to the little gray box that had about 4 wires bolted to it. Felt all around it and felt no button to push in. This is the panel from the converter.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Timex

Before I check this, let me ask; if the battery is not charging, would it be able to power the lights, etc? I have lights and slides work but the lights are not their brightest and the monitor panel says the battery is 1/3.

1/3 is only used for the holding tanks.

The equivalent when you press "battery" is F - Fair

The FAIR light will stay on until the voltage decays to 11.6 volts
(in a 12 volt battery that is pretty freaking LOW).

That means you are damaging your battery any time the "GOOD" light goes out (50%).

You need to get it out of your camper immediately and get it on a battery charger.

[B and B]

The jack LED is always dim on mine as is the performance. It is no better than the winegaurd. I would highly recommend returning the Jack. Unfortunately for me I installed mine on my TT and then parked it for the winter some could not return it. I am.thnking of packing a mini state and using this when in the bush ans satellite doesn't have line of site use ropes and haul it up between the trees!

Sent from my Z30 using Forest River Forums mobile app

[Timex]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

1/3 is only used for the holding tanks.

The equivalent when you press "battery" is F - Fair

The FAIR light will stay on until the voltage decays to 11.6 volts
(in a 12 volt battery that is pretty freaking LOW).

That means you are damaging your battery any time the "GOOD" light goes out (50%).

You need to get it out of your camper immediately and get it on a battery charger.

After 3 hours on the charger it's up to GOOD.

[retiredcamper47]

Did you check the two 40 amp fuses in your panel. They are larger in size than the regular fuses. You only said you replaced a 15 amp fuse. They are to protect the converter in case of reverse polarity. You stated in post #20 you had hooked the battery up wrong. Maybe that is why you are not charging the battery. Just a thought.................

Bob

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Timex

Checked all the fuses in the breaker box for continuity and all were good. All the breakers were on. Followed the positive battery cable to the little gray box that had about 4 wires bolted to it. Felt all around it and felt no button to push in. This is the panel from the converter.

The two lines heading up on the lower right looks like the converter input. One leads to the +terminal in the middle of the board, the other to the - terminal on the top of the board. Left side is all AC the right side is all DC. Sounds as though the converter is now charging the battery huh?

[Timex]

AC power is off, battery charger is hooked up right now. Didn't take the cables off the battery.

To check the +/- on the DC side of the converter, does the AC power need to be turned on to check this?

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Timex

AC power is off, battery charger is hooked up right now. Didn't take the cables off the battery.

To check the +/- on the DC side of the converter, does the AC power need to be turned on to check this?

Yes, the converter is simply an A/C device that transforms 120 to 14 VAC then converts it to DC via a bridge rectifier. It get its energy from shore power to provide the coach with DC and a little spare to maintain the battery. An easy check of its output voltage is to lift the battery terminal(either one) and check the + and - connections on the converter when plugged into a/c. If you leave all connected you'll get a combo converter/battery reading.

[Timex]

What about this, is this what I need to do?

Checking the DC Voltage Output

NOTE

: We recommend that safety glasses should to be used while checking the open PCB while

plugged in to AC source.

8.1. With these instructions DC output voltage can be checked

8.2. Let the MBA unit rest on the heat sink, and components facing away, while performing DC

output test

8.3. Apply

110 Vac to the converter input (make sure ground is properly connected)

8.4. Set the Multimeter to “

Volts DC”

8.5. Place “

Negative – Black” Multimeter probe on the end of “White Output Wire”

8.6. Place “

Positive – Red” Multimeter probe on the end of “Red Output Wire”, and the

reading should be approximately “

13.6 Vdc +/- 0.2”

(14.4 Vdc +/- 0.2 if the unit is in the Bulk charge mode)

8.7. If all steps above have been successfully completed the unit is good.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Timex

What about this, is this what I need to do?

Checking the DC Voltage Output

NOTE

: We recommend that safety glasses should to be used while checking the open PCB while

plugged in to AC source.

8.1. With these instructions DC output voltage can be checked

8.2. Let the MBA unit rest on the heat sink, and components facing away, while performing DC

output test

8.3. Apply

110 Vac to the converter input (make sure ground is properly connected)

8.4. Set the Multimeter to “

Volts DC”

8.5. Place “

Negative – Black” Multimeter probe on the end of “White Output Wire”

8.6. Place “

Positive – Red” Multimeter probe on the end of “Red Output Wire”, and the

reading should be approximately “

13.6 Vdc +/- 0.2”

(14.4 Vdc +/- 0.2 if the unit is in the Bulk charge mode)

8.7. If all steps above have been successfully completed the unit is good.

Yes, this is what I had in mind, just realize if the battery is still in the circuit, if it is in fact, the voltage out will be a little lower cause it will be supplying power to the coach battery as well. In any case it will tell you the charger portion is working or not. That test almost reads as a bench test, where the converter is disconnected from the distribution panel. No matter see what happens.

[Timex]

I'll try it tomorrow, gone to bed!

Thanks for everybody's help and advice.
Will report tomorrow, after I blow everything up!


Probably need to move this part of the thread away from the Jack antenna.

[Timex]

Got home today and checked the battery. After 24 hours on the charger it read 12.42. I turn on the AC power and go inside to check the terminals on the DC side of the converter, 12.37. The monitor panel shows 3 lights for the battery. I thought, well, maybe my leads were moving a little and affected the reading. The fan on the converter runs for about 2 seconds and shuts off after the PI surge protector clicks on. I can see the PI surge protector out the kitchen window so I started turning lights on to see how many amps are being pulled. 0 amps! Turn the A/C on and it reads 16 amps. Turned the lights off and no change to the amps, 16. After about 10 minutes I check the battery amps 12.17 and down to 2 lights on the monitor panel. So what I surmise is the battery is running all the DC things and not going through the converter even though it shows the same amps on the outputs of the converter. TV works, microwave, coffee pot, A/C they all work.

Suggestions PLEASE!!!

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Timex

Got home today and checked the battery. After 24 hours on the charger it read 12.42. I turn on the AC power and go inside to check the terminals on the DC side of the converter, 12.37. The monitor panel shows 3 lights for the battery. I thought, well, maybe my leads were moving a little and affected the reading. The fan on the converter runs for about 2 seconds and shuts off after the PI surge protector clicks on. I can see the PI surge protector out the kitchen window so I started turning lights on to see how many amps are being pulled. 0 amps! Turn the A/C on and it reads 16 amps. Turned the lights off and no change to the amps, 16. After about 10 minutes I check the battery amps 12.17 and down to 2 lights on the monitor panel. So what I surmise is the battery is running all the DC things and not going through the converter even though it shows the same amps on the outputs of the converter. TV works, microwave, coffee pot, A/C they all work.

Suggestions PLEASE!!!

3rd attempt: The A/C appliances really have no bearing to the DC problem. The battery may be sick, it should have reached more than 12.4 and with that small load it should not decay so quickly. Is it truly Deep Cycle?

The converter meanwhile should read 13.5+ at idle and the fan should not start for 2 seconds. It should start when the chassis warms and cutout when cooled.

Turbs always says get rid of the WFCO and get a Progressive, here's your chance.

[Timex]

It may very well be time for a change. Can I get a PD without going thru a dealer? This is the WFCO that I have now. Will the PD fit in the same hole in the wall? And how much do these dudes cost?

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Timex

It may very well be time for a change. Can I get a PD without going thru a dealer? This is the WFCO that I have now. Will the PD fit in the same hole in the wall? And how much do these dudes cost?

I'm fairly certain 1 and 2 are yes. 3 price not sure. Send a note to F1100 Turbo or/and Wmtire, both have discussed on numerous occasions. Let us know! Also can go to PD site, sure you can get you answers. Dealer not necessary.

[Timex]

Went to PD site and saw no prices but they had a list of dealers. I'll do some PM's tomorrow.

The Sand Man is calling me!

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Timex

Went to PD site and saw no prices but they had a list of dealers. I'll do some PM's tomorrow.

The Sand Man is calling me!

Great, BTW, did you get enough response on this thread??? LOL

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by VinceU

Great, BTW, did you get enough response on this thread??? LOL

" Massive, major PANIC!!! " Look up this thread from 10/13. There two videos showing mods from stock to PD converters. Posts 47 and 49 like page 5 or 6. Located in Electrical / charging section.

[Timex]

After many hours of passing messages back/forth, reading as much material I could get my eyes on, I was almost ready to buy a new converter. I had checked all the fuses with a meter(twice) and they all tested good. I decided this a.m. that I have got to be overlooking something easy. So I pulled the 40 amp fuses(that are supposed to blow when "idiots" hook the battery up backwards) and visually checked and sure enough they were blown. I have already checked them twice, so it pays to triple check! I had almost picked out which converter I was going to get, about $225. Went to an auto parts store and bought a 5 pk of 40 amp fuses, plugged them in, connected the battery, turned on the AC, and the fan from the converter came on when I turned a light on. That was music to my ears! 2 fuses=$1.78 saved me $225!
Had the battery on a charger for about 4 hours and it read 12.6. Checked the output on the fuse panel 12.3. Checked after the AC was on and it read 13.6. I think that is what it is supposed to be. So I think I am in business on the cheap!
I appreciate everyone's advice on helping me figure this out. I'm embarrassed that it even came to this but I'm sure I'm not the only person this has happened to.

Now, about the Jack antenna. No better reception than I had before all of this entertainment so the jury is still out on it's performance. And the light on the bottom is on but is dim. You wouldn't be able to see it in daylight.