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Old 06-18-2014, 08:47 PM   #31
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What about this, is this what I need to do?


Checking the DC Voltage Output


NOTE
: We recommend that safety glasses should to be used while checking the open PCB while


plugged in to AC source.


8.1. With these instructions DC output voltage can be checked


8.2. Let the MBA unit rest on the heat sink, and components facing away, while performing DC


output test


8.3. Apply
110 Vac to the converter input (make sure ground is properly connected)


8.4. Set the Multimeter to “
Volts DC”


8.5. Place “
Negative – Black” Multimeter probe on the end of “White Output Wire”


8.6. Place “
Positive – Red” Multimeter probe on the end of “Red Output Wire”, and the


reading should be approximately “
13.6 Vdc +/- 0.2”


(14.4 Vdc +/- 0.2 if the unit is in the Bulk charge mode)

8.7. If all steps above have been successfully completed the unit is good.
Yes, this is what I had in mind, just realize if the battery is still in the circuit, if it is in fact, the voltage out will be a little lower cause it will be supplying power to the coach battery as well. In any case it will tell you the charger portion is working or not. That test almost reads as a bench test, where the converter is disconnected from the distribution panel. No matter see what happens.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:33 PM   #32
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I'll try it tomorrow, gone to bed!

Thanks for everybody's help and advice.
Will report tomorrow, after I blow everything up!


Probably need to move this part of the thread away from the Jack antenna.
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:54 PM   #33
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It's Official Now, I'm Totaly Frustrated!

Got home today and checked the battery. After 24 hours on the charger it read 12.42. I turn on the AC power and go inside to check the terminals on the DC side of the converter, 12.37. The monitor panel shows 3 lights for the battery. I thought, well, maybe my leads were moving a little and affected the reading. The fan on the converter runs for about 2 seconds and shuts off after the PI surge protector clicks on. I can see the PI surge protector out the kitchen window so I started turning lights on to see how many amps are being pulled. 0 amps! Turn the A/C on and it reads 16 amps. Turned the lights off and no change to the amps, 16. After about 10 minutes I check the battery amps 12.17 and down to 2 lights on the monitor panel. So what I surmise is the battery is running all the DC things and not going through the converter even though it shows the same amps on the outputs of the converter. TV works, microwave, coffee pot, A/C they all work.

Suggestions PLEASE!!!
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:51 PM   #34
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Got home today and checked the battery. After 24 hours on the charger it read 12.42. I turn on the AC power and go inside to check the terminals on the DC side of the converter, 12.37. The monitor panel shows 3 lights for the battery. I thought, well, maybe my leads were moving a little and affected the reading. The fan on the converter runs for about 2 seconds and shuts off after the PI surge protector clicks on. I can see the PI surge protector out the kitchen window so I started turning lights on to see how many amps are being pulled. 0 amps! Turn the A/C on and it reads 16 amps. Turned the lights off and no change to the amps, 16. After about 10 minutes I check the battery amps 12.17 and down to 2 lights on the monitor panel. So what I surmise is the battery is running all the DC things and not going through the converter even though it shows the same amps on the outputs of the converter. TV works, microwave, coffee pot, A/C they all work.

Suggestions PLEASE!!!
3rd attempt: The A/C appliances really have no bearing to the DC problem. The battery may be sick, it should have reached more than 12.4 and with that small load it should not decay so quickly. Is it truly Deep Cycle?

The converter meanwhile should read 13.5+ at idle and the fan should not start for 2 seconds. It should start when the chassis warms and cutout when cooled.

Turbs always says get rid of the WFCO and get a Progressive, here's your chance.
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:16 PM   #35
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It may very well be time for a change. Can I get a PD without going thru a dealer? This is the WFCO that I have now. Will the PD fit in the same hole in the wall? And how much do these dudes cost?
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:55 PM   #36
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It may very well be time for a change. Can I get a PD without going thru a dealer? This is the WFCO that I have now. Will the PD fit in the same hole in the wall? And how much do these dudes cost?
I'm fairly certain 1 and 2 are yes. 3 price not sure. Send a note to F1100 Turbo or/and Wmtire, both have discussed on numerous occasions. Let us know! Also can go to PD site, sure you can get you answers. Dealer not necessary.
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:58 PM   #37
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Went to PD site and saw no prices but they had a list of dealers. I'll do some PM's tomorrow.

The Sand Man is calling me!
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:31 PM   #38
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Went to PD site and saw no prices but they had a list of dealers. I'll do some PM's tomorrow.

The Sand Man is calling me!
Great, BTW, did you get enough response on this thread??? LOL
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:21 PM   #39
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Great, BTW, did you get enough response on this thread??? LOL
" Massive, major PANIC!!! " Look up this thread from 10/13. There two videos showing mods from stock to PD converters. Posts 47 and 49 like page 5 or 6. Located in Electrical / charging section.
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:35 PM   #40
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UPDATE

After many hours of passing messages back/forth, reading as much material I could get my eyes on, I was almost ready to buy a new converter. I had checked all the fuses with a meter(twice) and they all tested good. I decided this a.m. that I have got to be overlooking something easy. So I pulled the 40 amp fuses(that are supposed to blow when "idiots" hook the battery up backwards) and visually checked and sure enough they were blown. I have already checked them twice, so it pays to triple check! I had almost picked out which converter I was going to get, about $225. Went to an auto parts store and bought a 5 pk of 40 amp fuses, plugged them in, connected the battery, turned on the AC, and the fan from the converter came on when I turned a light on. That was music to my ears! 2 fuses=$1.78 saved me $225!
Had the battery on a charger for about 4 hours and it read 12.6. Checked the output on the fuse panel 12.3. Checked after the AC was on and it read 13.6. I think that is what it is supposed to be. So I think I am in business on the cheap!
I appreciate everyone's advice on helping me figure this out. I'm embarrassed that it even came to this but I'm sure I'm not the only person this has happened to.

Now, about the Jack antenna. No better reception than I had before all of this entertainment so the jury is still out on it's performance. And the light on the bottom is on but is dim. You wouldn't be able to see it in daylight.
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