Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-19-2011, 01:40 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
Leveling, RLBSS831

How do we level these TT's?
accessability using the front frame portion is limited.
Length wise leveling on the frame is not close to the inside floor, the counter nor reefer frame.
Using the available front frame surface, to set lengthwise level, then the rear bathroom door won't latch!
So, what is your procedure for leveling your Flagstaff ?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Wanderer
..all who wander are not lost....
__________________

__________________
2008 Cardinal 30RK fiver.
2009 Chevrolet 2500HD DuroMax

2009- 42 days; 2010-40 days, 2011- 40 days. 2012- 30 days,
2013- 14 days, 2014- 21 days, 2015- 42 days
Wanderer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 06:28 AM   #2
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,169
It is very easy to twist the frame on an ultra-lite TT or 5th wheel since frames are I beam construction. It is critical, I have found, to use boards under both tires to level the side to side before you lower the stabilizers.

It is best to initially determine what level looks like (set the zero if your will) on a concrete pad somewhere. While still connected to the ball or hitch, you should use a long brick layer level (not a bullet size one) across the A frame (side to side).
If you don't have one use a straight 2x4 and a 24 inch level on top of the 2x4. That will give you the best idea of what level is.

Back the camper up on enough boards (or those plastic "Lego" blocks) to raise the low side to center the bubble. across the A frame. Move the level set up to the rear bumper and check there. It should also be pretty close to level as well. If not, you may have a bent frame. (bad!)

Attach a bubble level from the camping store to the camper and make sure it reads level before you fasten it on.

Chock the wheels and unhitch. Using the 2x4 and level, put it across the floor inside the camper (front to back). Have someone watch the level as you use the tongue jack (or 5th wheel front landing legs) to raise or lower the front to center the bubble on the level is centered. Attach another camper store level to the side of the A frame tongue with the bubble centered.

The doors should all work now. Lower the corner stabilizers using great care to just snug them up to the ground. They must NOT lift the camper. They are not designed to hold 1/4 of the camper's weight and will fail if used as jacks. They are there to help control suspension bounce as you walk around inside.
__________________

__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 12:11 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
It is very easy to twist the frame on an ultra-lite TT or 5th wheel since frames are I beam construction. It is critical, I have found, to use boards under both tires to level the side to side before you lower the stabilizers.

It is best to initially determine what level looks like (set the zero if your will) on a concrete pad somewhere. While still connected to the ball or hitch, you should use a long brick layer level (not a bullet size one) across the A frame (side to side).
If you don't have one use a straight 2x4 and a 24 inch level on top of the 2x4. That will give you the best idea of what level is.

Back the camper up on enough boards (or those plastic "Lego" blocks) to raise the low side to center the bubble. across the A frame. Move the level set up to the rear bumper and check there. It should also be pretty close to level as well. If not, you may have a bent frame. (bad!)

Attach a bubble level from the camping store to the camper and make sure it reads level before you fasten it on.

Chock the wheels and unhitch. Using the 2x4 and level, put it across the floor inside the camper (front to back). Have someone watch the level as you use the tongue jack (or 5th wheel front landing legs) to raise or lower the front to center the bubble on the level is centered. Attach another camper store level to the side of the A frame tongue with the bubble centered.

The doors should all work now. Lower the corner stabilizers using great care to just snug them up to the ground. They must NOT lift the camper. They are not designed to hold 1/4 of the camper's weight and will fail if used as jacks. They are there to help control suspension bounce as you walk around inside.

Lou,
Thank you for the suggestions, I'm on the road right now, I do have a brick layer type long level .....at home! Have the small bullet type(10 inch) with me.
BTW, you seem quite knowledgeable on the forums here, what do you recommend to minimize that "suspension bounce". It is annoying!
Thanks again,
Wanderer
__________________
2008 Cardinal 30RK fiver.
2009 Chevrolet 2500HD DuroMax

2009- 42 days; 2010-40 days, 2011- 40 days. 2012- 30 days,
2013- 14 days, 2014- 21 days, 2015- 42 days
Wanderer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 12:24 PM   #4
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,169
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
BTW, you seem quite knowledgeable on the forums here, what do you recommend to minimize that "suspension bounce". It is annoying!
I just play one on the Internet!
Actually I am still learning just like you guys are. Since I have pretty good availability, I am on all the time. I just pass along what I learned mostly from the folks here and links that are passed along here. In fact I just got spanked on another thread when I made an "assumption" about a rear axle ratio change. There is always someone here who "KNOWS"

As to the bounce, I found that X-Chocks work the best. They push the front tandem tire against the back tire, locking the front to back movement.

Someone here put another set of scissor stabilizers right behind the tires of his TT (for a total six). That would not work for my 5th wheel.

I am looking at a tripod for under the pin. If I spot one for sale I will most likely buy it.
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2011, 11:56 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 109
Wanderer, Lou is correct in all of his information. Another trick I have learned is to raise my slide side 1 level block higher than level. If I set up level and let both slides on (both are on the same side) the wight of the slide will tilt the TT enough that my interior doors will not remain open.
__________________
brw549 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2011, 11:46 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by brw549 View Post
Wanderer, Lou is correct in all of his information. Another trick I have learned is to raise my slide side 1 level block higher than level. If I set up level and let both slides on (both are on the same side) the wight of the slide will tilt the TT enough that my interior doors will not remain open.
Thanks BRW,
Great tip, I had actually thought of this but, seemed like when I'd get to the setup it would slip my mind which if you knew me, you would understand that to be a frequent occurance!
__________________
2008 Cardinal 30RK fiver.
2009 Chevrolet 2500HD DuroMax

2009- 42 days; 2010-40 days, 2011- 40 days. 2012- 30 days,
2013- 14 days, 2014- 21 days, 2015- 42 days
Wanderer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 12:02 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
I just play one on the Internet!
Actually I am still learning just like you guys are. Since I have pretty good availability, I am on all the time. I just pass along what I learned mostly from the folks here and links that are passed along here. In fact I just got spanked on another thread when I made an "assumption" about a rear axle ratio change. There is always someone here who "KNOWS"

As to the bounce, I found that X-Chocks work the best. They push the front tandem tire against the back tire, locking the front to back movement.

Someone here put another set of scissor stabilizers right behind the tires of his TT (for a total six). That would not work for my 5th wheel.

I am looking at a tripod for under the pin. If I spot one for sale I will most likely buy it.

Hey,
I tried two stabilizers, "C" jacks; under the mid-section just forward of the front wheels. Attached them to a cross beam there which is part of the tandem wheel suspension system. This did result in a reduction in the bounce; Not all, but better! Actually intent was to buy one pair of the "C" jacks, ended up with two pair, but only have mounting surface room for one pair.
Thanks for the tips
__________________

__________________
2008 Cardinal 30RK fiver.
2009 Chevrolet 2500HD DuroMax

2009- 42 days; 2010-40 days, 2011- 40 days. 2012- 30 days,
2013- 14 days, 2014- 21 days, 2015- 42 days
Wanderer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
frame, leveling

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:33 PM.