Low Point - drains?

[JeBa]

I have a 2004 Flagstaff 26DS that I purchased in Sept 2008.

I am thankful for all the winterizing directions & tips provided by the savvy members of this forum.
My TT has a permanent water heater by-pass system that made winterizing with the pink stuff seem fairly easy.

I have seen on other TT's - capped off tubing which appear to be low point drains for the hot & cold water lines.
On mine there are no capped off tubes protruding from the bottom of the TT.
However, in the undercarriage (thru the floor - under the bathtub) there are two open tubes with no caps or valves attached.

What are these? There doesn't appear to be any way to access them from the inside of the TT.

thanks in advance,

Jeff

[KyDan]

My "guess" is these are low point drains.
I have the same thing.
I believe I could access the drain valves by removing the heat duct outlet
that comes out under the shower.
I'm not gonna worry about it.
I'll blow it out and pump in antifreeze and forgetaboutit!!

[08flagvlite]

Most all water heaters have what's called a "pop off valve, in case the heat gets too hot, excessive pressure is blown out this hose. That may explain the un-capped piping, if it's near the water heater. Randy

[KyDan]

They're under the bathtub.
The water heater is in the other end of the trailer.
There are 2 lines.
A red and a blue.
They are most likely low point drains but I'm not curious enough
to take out the heater outlet to look under there.

[JeBa]

Both of the open tubes that I referred to, are white/clear.

No red or blue color designation is visible.

The closest lines that I can physically see, are inside the bathroom under the sink. But there are no valves to close or open. Just T's that I think pass the lines onto the tube/shower faucet.

The mystery continues....


Jeff

[TacBear]

JeBa - Yes, I'll bet they are there.

I have the identical arrangement on my Rockwood. Two tubes protrude through the floor under my bathtub. I called Forest River to ask how to drain the water through them. I was told to open the access hatch under the tub, and "feel around" under the tub and I would find two "pop-up" valves under there. I mumbled, cursed, and generally groused, but after standing on my head, I found them.

I let the Forest River man know of my displeasure of such a poor design. He sheepishly admitted that it was not one of their better features.

Good luck on finding them.

TacBear

[KyDan]

AND remember, if you do manage to reach all the way in there and pull just a little
too hard, you will break the drain valve and the only way to repair/replace
them is to remove the tub/shower. They were very likely installed before the
tub was set in place.

As I've said- I am not going to mess with them.
They don't leak now and I'm not touching them.
I'll just run the system full of pink stuff and they will be fine.
I suggest you do the same if you have this "impossible" placement of your drain
valves.

Good Luck!
KyDan

[JeBa]

Thanks for all the great information!

I'm with you KyDan - if it ain't broke, I ain't gonna touch'em.

Jeff

[Toolpusher]

I have a Rockwood 8319SS and my low point drains are right under the water heater with easy access to them. Can you use the drains to drain the water from the cold side and drain water left in the hot water heater without having to remove the anode plug?

David

[KyDan]

Maybe but you really do want to remove the anode plug.
I assume you are winterizing and you want to be sure you have all/most
of the water out of the WH tank.
Also, I got a surprising amount of lime, sand, sediment, scale out of mine and
we are not full timers fer sure!
I actually stuck a cut off piece of garden hose in the drain hole and flushed
out a bunch more junk.

If you have a suburban water heater, you need a 1 & 1/16 socket and extension
and handle to remove the drain/anode.

Good luck!
KyDan